The ask Tin about audio thread

No I didnt use shims (didnt come with any and I didnt want to take the dust cap off). While the contact cement was still setting, I moved the cone around while pushing down to make sure there was no rubbing. Ill give that a try and see what happens. Worst case, I send them to Orange county or Simply speakers and have it done. Unless you know of any local places.
 
93 saturn sl2 said:
No I didnt use shims (didnt come with any and I didnt want to take the dust cap off). While the contact cement was still setting, I moved the cone around while pushing down to make sure there was no rubbing. Ill give that a try and see what happens. Worst case, I send them to Orange county or Simply speakers and have it done. Unless you know of any local places.
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Parts Express down in Ohio does it, too.
 
Tin said:
You really don't need anything huge for a 2.5 car. I'd look into something like this Logitech Bluetooth receiver: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-...1423530261&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+bluetooth That way, you can use your phone or tablet to play music on anything with a stereo input. I'm still browsing for accompanying gear and staying under your budget.

EDIT: Here we go, amp and speakers, too: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YKZVYM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A385A0XNQBW8HY Those B652 speakers are one of the best at their price point, and that amp should be plenty enough for your garage. You can buy it all on Amazon and it'll run you a hair under $125 shipped. Best part is, that amp can be powered by AA batteries, too. You can take it camping or put it in a car trailer when you go on trips. Dual purpose :)
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Thanks again!
 
Alright, I'll play

Martin Logan Preface speakers, what 2 channel amp would you use? Preferably one that can be triggered by a Marantz HT amp (SR5007) if being used in a HT setup.
Right now the amp drives them well and the quality is pretty great but I'd rather have a dedicated 4ohm amp.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance
 
avbcon12 said:
Alright, I'll play

Martin Logan Preface speakers, what 2 channel amp would you use? Preferably one that can be triggered by a Marantz HT amp (SR5007) if being used in a HT setup.
Right now the amp drives them well and the quality is pretty great but I'd rather have a dedicated 4ohm amp.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance
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I dunno if they can be triggered by the Marantz, but the Emotiva XPA-100 monoblocks are very nice, and one of the brands Martin Logan recommends for their speakers. I think they put out 400W at 4 ohms, run about $400 each. Those 'stats love the juice!
 
Tin- let's chat receiver recommendations, I'm in need of two. I have four project areas in my house. I have more speakers and amps than sources. Reading receiver specs is making my eyes go buggy.

1. Main level family room. Area is ~300sq ft. sources: internet, iPad, blue-ray/dvd, FM radio, TV. Usage: general TV and music use
2. Basement entertainment. Area is ~350sq ft. Sources: internet, iPad, blue-ray/dvd Usage: movie/theater room, music for parties
3. Basement gym. Sources: internet, iPad, dvd Usage: workout music
4. Patio. Source: zone 2 from main level family room receiver. Usage: music only

Here's the equipment list.

Electronics: Denon 2312CI receiver. Alesis RA500 2ch amp, Yamaha P2500S 2ch amp.
Speakers: 1 pair of Polk RTi10 towers, 1 set of Polk RM87 7.1 system, 2 pairs PSB Alpha B1, Polk Atrium4 outdoor speakers
Powered subs: Polk PSW10 w/ Yung SD200-6 amp plate, Klipsch sub-10 w/ Bash 300s amp, Dayton Ultimax 12 w/ P.E. enclosure and Yung SD500-6 amp

Here's where sh!t starts going sideways..... Equipment distribution and receiver selection. I'm probably way over complicating the issue....

1. Main level family room. Wife says no to the RTi10s on the main level (size/aesthetics). So, thinking using 2 pair of the RM87s and the Klipsch 10" sub and using the Denon 2312 here and use zone 2 for the outdoor speakers. Use the 2312CI on this level.
2. Basement entertainment. Thinking RTi10s up front, both pairs of PSBs for side and rear channels, and the Dayton Ultimax.
3. Basement gym: Thinking of a pair of Polk RM87 and the Polk 10" sub.
The center RM87 speaker becomes a dust collector elsewhere, the 2-channel amps get sold to fund receiver purchases.

With that in mind I was searching Accessories4less. For the basement entertainment area, Marantz SR5007 was appealing. In the gym, the Denon AVR-E300 looked good. Budget wise, I'd like to stay under $800 total. Selling the Alesis and Yamaha amps do not increase the budget, only lessen the initial sting.

What would Tin do? Shop elsewhere? Consider other manufacturers and/or models?
 
That's an old Japanese integrated amp most likely. I think it has a hot chassis, so you'd need an isolation transformer to run it without turning your fingers into smoked sausages :lol:
 
I bet it's a sweet sounding amp. Looks like it uses EL84 tubes for the outputs, not sure on the driver tube or rectifier though. Should be good for about 5WPC, a great match for those Klipsch bookshelf speakers you snagged recently. It looks easy to rebuild, too. Single-ended tube amplifiers have a very simple circuit.
 
The absence of a power transformer is a dead giveaway on it being a hot chassis. Hard to say what to to do with it, it looks like it would be a chore to shoehorn a power transformer somewhere. In order to make it safe to use, you'd need a choke and power transformer and a new circuit. The RH-84 is an easy circuit and just may work with that small chassis. The power transformer and choke will take up some room though, might need midget hands to make it work :lol:
 
I unscrewed the piece with the mounts for the tubes. If I make some wires longer I could turn it like this and take them out the top.

I wonder if there is enough space under the plate now.
 
93 saturn sl2 said:
Hot chassis?
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A hot chassis is not grounded through the power cord ground. Without an explicit ground, any leakage can make the chassis take a charge from the line. Basically, if there's leakage anywhere and you touch that chassis, you're gonna get zapped. The zap from a tube amp can kill, there are lethal voltages flowing through the circuity. Most amps will be somewhere between 300 and 600V, but there are some out there pushing over 1200V. The higher voltage amps usually run huge transmitter tubes that put out enough heat to warm a large room :lol:
 
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