The ask Tin about audio thread

99Electriccobra said:
I miss my NAD stuff :punchball
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It's one of my favorite brands. No coloration to the sound whatsoever, very minimal looking, very well built, and will drive a 2 ohm load without blowing the circuit breaker :lol: I know many here love the vintage Marantz/Kenwood/Pioneer stuff, but if you give them a difficult load to drive, you will spend quite awhile finding new transistors to replace the burned ones.
 
Tin said:
How much do you want to spend? The 201's aren't very efficient, about 86dB 1W/m, so they will need some juice. I would look at something 50WPC or more. You can probably find a second hand NAD to run them off of for a good price.
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ok forget them, I also have a pair of EV s40 thats could be used, I auctually perfer their sound over the bose, wife likes the way the Bose look though :icon_roll
 
moneypit said:
ok forget them, I also have a pair of EV s40 thats could be used, I auctually perfer their sound over the bose, wife likes the way the Bose look though :icon_roll
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Those will need juice too, they're actually a little less efficient than the 201s, 4 ohm nominal too so they will probably dip to 2 or 3 ohms in the lower bass and midrange. Impedance is always highest at Fs (cone resonance frequency) and the upper mids and highs. If you can find a pro amp, like a Crown or QSC and run it from the preouts of a receiver, you would be doing good with either speaker.
 
Do you by chance have car audio input,I'm putting a "system" in a dodge magnum.I have never done a suv type or open cabin,only trunks.I will be using a ported enclosure with 2 10" subs that I will build.I want to understand more about things like cabin gain,quarter wave and so on.I need to find my resonant frequency of the magnum there is my first goal, but have no tools to get this info.Usually I start with a tuned hz enclosure then try a box above and below starting frequency and go from there,THE HARD WAY but I like building enclosures and have a few on hand, but these will not help in this case.From my experience trunk sub to port placement is key,they are usually facing the back of car sub and port on same baffle with port on passenger side giving driver seat best sound.From checking car audio web sites they don't work best facing back because the waves don't mesh. and cause cancellation.So hopefully you have an idea of what I'm trying to get help with. I know there's no real answers or explanation specific to this but there are a million formulas and theories to answer theoreatic questions and I'm open to hear any thoughts you may have.I have waited years to use my equipment for a build.
Soundstream USA 10" subwoofers x2
Soundstream USA 180 amplifiers x2
If needed I will use AudioControl eqx to get stupid adjustment for sq
Hi/mid amp will be a Alphasonik pma-4050 sp (can not find specs for this amp) have never seen another pma 4050 SP.
The 2 USA subs will be my main subs but will be swapped out on occasion for other sound treats.I will also build 2 other enclosures for my other babies,A single soundsstream exact 10" more likely in a sealed for sq and a tantric md 12" in a bp for spl these will be powered by old planet audio amps.
Do you have a db meter or means to measure db and hz by laptop for in car response.Using online programs help but in car response is usually different so trusting and building to what they say is a shot in the dark.I'm rambling on so if you wanna shoot the shit about it I'm listening.
 
lone racer said:
Do you by chance have car audio input,I'm putting a "system" in a dodge magnum.I have never done a suv type or open cabin,only trunks.I will be using a ported enclosure with 2 10" subs that I will build.I want to understand more about things like cabin gain,quarter wave and so on.I need to find my resonant frequency of the magnum there is my first goal, but have no tools to get this info.Usually I start with a tuned hz enclosure then try a box above and below starting frequency and go from there,THE HARD WAY but I like building enclosures and have a few on hand, but these will not help in this case.From my experience trunk sub to port placement is key,they are usually facing the back of car sub and port on same baffle with port on passenger side giving driver seat best sound.From checking car audio web sites they don't work best facing back because the waves don't mesh. and cause cancellation.So hopefully you have an idea of what I'm trying to get help with. I know there's no real answers or explanation specific to this but there are a million formulas and theories to answer theoreatic questions and I'm open to hear any thoughts you may have.I have waited years to use my equipment for a build.
Soundstream USA 10" subwoofers x2
Soundstream USA 180 amplifiers x2
If needed I will use AudioControl eqx to get stupid adjustment for sq
Hi/mid amp will be a Alphasonik pma-4050 sp (can not find specs for this amp) have never seen another pma 4050 SP.
The 2 USA subs will be my main subs but will be swapped out on occasion for other sound treats.I will also build 2 other enclosures for my other babies,A single soundsstream exact 10" more likely in a sealed for sq and a tantric md 12" in a bp for spl these will be powered by old planet audio amps.
Do you have a db meter or means to measure db and hz by laptop for in car response.Using online programs help but in car response is usually different so trusting and building to what they say is a shot in the dark.I'm rambling on so if you wanna shoot the shit about it I'm listening.
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I'm not much of a car audio guy, although the science behind both is the same. For your build, you may want to look into WinISD, it's a free piece of software for modeling speaker enclosures. You'll need to know the Thiele/Small parameters of your drivers, but once you have those you can calculate the proper enclosure for best bass response. The manufacturers of your drivers should have their parameters available.
 
Tin said:
Nope, same one. Those are from the early/mid-70s. I've never heard those, but they should be pretty good. I can't think of anything that wasjunk that EV ever manufactured. They pioneered many technologies in the industry.
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I was waiting for you to say that post 19XX dont touch it lol.
 
Tin said:
I'm not much of a car audio guy, although the science behind both is the same. For your build, you may want to look into WinISD, it's a free piece of software for modeling speaker enclosures. You'll need to know the Thiele/Small parameters of your drivers, but once you have those you can calculate the proper enclosure for best bass response. The manufacturers of your drivers should have their parameters available.
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Well I don't think you actually read my post, but I understand from your response,thanks anyway
 
lone racer said:
Well I don't think you actually read my post, but I understand from your response,thanks anyway
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I did read your post, but was trying to figure out where you were going with it. I couldn't tell you much about cabin gain because the shape of a car interior is far different from a room in a home. In order to find the resonance of your Magnum, you could run pink noise through the radio at various frequencies and watch which ones make the body panels vibrate most. Keep in mind that it would be a ballpark figure, because to know the exact resonant frequency would require knowledge of the alloy of the body panels and the effect the paint and underlying structure may have with it. There are lots of noise generator apps for Android and iOS you could use to run some tests. It would also give you a good idea as to the lower limit of the system in conjunction with a spectrum analyzer app. I don't have a SPL meter, but they are cheap. BAFX makes one that runs about $20 on Amazon. Now that I mentioned it, I should pick one up for myself. :D
 
Tin... when I read your technical posts. I pretend its a Japanese anime cartoon, the kind that is in english but none of the mouth movements match up to what they are saying.

I start out understanding the conversation but somewhere I just get lost as fuck.
 
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347convert said:
Tin... when I read your technical posts. I pretend its a Japanese anime cartoon, the kind that is in english but none of the mouth movements match up to what they are saying.

I start out understanding the conversation but somewhere I just get lost as fuck.
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anigif_enhanced-buzz-5314-1407094608-10.gif
 
Tin said:
I did read your post, but was trying to figure out where you were going with it. I couldn't tell you much about cabin gain because the shape of a car interior is far different from a room in a home. In order to find the resonance of your Magnum, you could run pink noise through the radio at various frequencies and watch which ones make the body panels vibrate most. Keep in mind that it would be a ballpark figure, because to know the exact resonant frequency would require knowledge of the alloy of the body panels and the effect the paint and underlying structure may have with it. There are lots of noise generator apps for Android and iOS you could use to run some tests. It would also give you a good idea as to the lower limit of the system in conjunction with a spectrum analyzer app. I don't have a SPL meter, but they are cheap. BAFX makes one that runs about $20 on Amazon. Now that I mentioned it, I should pick one up for myself. :D
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Yea can't believe I don't have one.I never got this involved with a system,I would just swap different tuned boxes and go from there.I found some good info on quarter waves and will test the theory on a small scale using a 6"woofer in a loaded horn.If this holds water I will actually wall off the magnum with a removable baffle to change speaker size and number and a removable square port for easy system change and tune.After reading a million theories and arguments your spot on about the resonant frequency,it's almost infinity,constantly changing buy everyday factors like amount of gas or window open etc.. so I'm not focusing on that to much but will get a range and then the magic is supposed to happen,at least that's what the internet said.lol But when I can make the windshield wave I'd love to demo,the car is a 850 dollar 412cid pontiac powered magnum,might even have the comedian in the back also...
 
lone racer said:
Yea can't believe I don't have one.I never got this involved with a system,I would just swap different tuned boxes and go from there.I found some good info on quarter waves and will test the theory on a small scale using a 6"woofer in a loaded horn.If this holds water I will actually wall off the magnum with a removable baffle to change speaker size and number and a removable square port for easy system change and tune.After reading a million theories and arguments your spot on about the resonant frequency,it's almost infinity,constantly changing buy everyday factors like amount of gas or window open etc.. so I'm not focusing on that to much but will get a range and then the magic is supposed to happen,at least that's what the internet said.lol But when I can make the windshield wave I'd love to demo,the car is a 850 dollar 412cid pontiac powered magnum,might even have the comedian in the back also...
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If you plan on running a bass horn you will have to keep the driver small. A larger driver will require a huge, and I mean huge, horn to pull it off. You will also need to use something that uses a light weight cone, made from something like paper or banana pulp. Horns have a very fast bass response, punchy but not nearly as resonant as a bass reflex enclosure. For that sort of thing, I'd look at a tapped horn, you can make the length of the horn fit into a rather compact enclosure vs a horn-loaded enclosure. Check out this site, this Martin King is a speaker designer/mathematician who has contributed tons to modern speaker design theory. http://www.quarter-wave.com/
 
Hey Tin I pm'd you a few weeks back about some receivers . Did you get it ? If not I'll post question on here .

Ty in advance

Nik
 
Tin (audio master),

Looking for a nice speaker for my tablet for the garage, so i can give the bose back to the wife. What is your suggestion for a 2.5 car? Been reading about sony and the bose soundwave.

Not looking to spend huge cash, maybe under 250 or so.
 
Stormy81 said:
Tin (audio master),

Looking for a nice speaker for my tablet for the garage, so i can give the bose back to the wife. What is your suggestion for a 2.5 car? Been reading about sony and the bose soundwave.

Not looking to spend huge cash, maybe under 250 or so.
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You really don't need anything huge for a 2.5 car. I'd look into something like this Logitech Bluetooth receiver: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-...1423530261&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+bluetooth That way, you can use your phone or tablet to play music on anything with a stereo input. I'm still browsing for accompanying gear and staying under your budget.

EDIT: Here we go, amp and speakers, too: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YKZVYM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A385A0XNQBW8HY Those B652 speakers are one of the best at their price point, and that amp should be plenty enough for your garage. You can buy it all on Amazon and it'll run you a hair under $125 shipped. Best part is, that amp can be powered by AA batteries, too. You can take it camping or put it in a car trailer when you go on trips. Dual purpose :)
 
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So I attempted to re-foam my Cerwin Vega AT-15's last week. I thought I did a good job with keeping the voice coil centered but after testing one of the woofers, its making a noise when the bass hits. Probably time for a complete re-cone at this point.
 
93 saturn sl2 said:
So I attempted to re-foam my Cerwin Vega AT-15's last week. I thought I did a good job with keeping the voice coil centered but after testing one of the woofers, its making a noise when the bass hits. Probably time for a complete re-cone at this point.
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Did you shim the voice coil when you refoamed them? Before you recone, try rotating the woofer 180* to see if it sorts itself out. Sometimes the spider (suspension) will sag on a woofer from age. This is pretty common in nearly any older speaker with a large woofer.
 
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