LSx into Porsche. . . and I'm going to need some help
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347convert
Club Sponsor
I have a buddy that owns a 1980 911 with an ls.... I should give you his number, he is a fab guy. Works out on the east side.
http://race-car-replicas.com/ thats where he works.
http://race-car-replicas.com/ thats where he works.
karkidajm51
Forum Member
idk man. i know nothing on this swap but in my past experiences going with proven kits by a professional company has always worked out better for me. i think 1200 if a fair price considering the fact that im sure with this swap in a porsche of all cars, no corners should be cut. thats just me. it seems that if i had the money to do a project of this magnitude, that id want it done with no games because im sure other than engine wish there may be roadblocks. idk just my $0.02
beertestr
Club Member
FWIW, electric water pumps seldom keep up in sustained use. They are OK for 1/4 mile runs, but if you want to run sustained heavy throttle, they usually don't keep up. How much do you have to cut to fit a Corvette LS pump? Have you looked into the LS4 (FWD Impala) water pump setup and accessory drive. It makes for the shortest overall engine length of any LS package. This pic is with a pre-2008 Corvette pump, 2008+ moved the water outlet to the other side. The LS4 water pump sits even tighter to the block . .
Here's a pic of the LS4. I don't recommend using the entire engine, as the block has the BOP rear bellhousing, and no engine mount provisions on the right side. But, the accessory drive is pretty compact, might even solve your power steering issue too, the pump is up top there in the pic. You might need to have the snout shortened on the crank, IIRC, it's a little shorter than a regular LS1, but I'll double check that. I used to have some engineering responsibility on these FWD V8, but it's been 4 years since I really looked at them.
Here's a pic of the LS4. I don't recommend using the entire engine, as the block has the BOP rear bellhousing, and no engine mount provisions on the right side. But, the accessory drive is pretty compact, might even solve your power steering issue too, the pump is up top there in the pic. You might need to have the snout shortened on the crank, IIRC, it's a little shorter than a regular LS1, but I'll double check that. I used to have some engineering responsibility on these FWD V8, but it's been 4 years since I really looked at them.
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beertestr
Club Member
I confirmed the LS4 crank snout is shorter, nothing that can't be done to a regular LS crank though. The single belt is basically where the AC belt is on the pic you show. It migh tbe tight, but it might clear the body. The MR2 PS pum pis not a bad option though, I've seen it used before. I think the Fiero had a electric PS pump too, I assume for the same reasons. FWIW, putting the pump in the back for added capacity only buys you time before it overheats, it will still overheat if there is a thermal issue. I don't know how much open- tracking you plan to do, but IMO, keeping the PS fluid from travelling from the front of the car to the back is one of the benefits of an EPS setup. Adding a steering cooler up front would probably be a simpler, effective solution if the need arises.
Regarding the engine harness, power to the vehicle and cluster communication, most of it is simpler than you think.
If you want the stock cluster to work with the LS engine, the coolant temp and oil pressure senders are relatively easy to adapt. There are several options to go there, depending on the OEM porsche senders, and what they used for threads. The engine harness only needs power, and a sub-fuse panel to run all of that is relatively simple. YOu only need about 6-7 fuses and 2 relays to run an LS engine. Powering the vehicle is as easy as tapping the old alternator power lead, and hooking it up to whatever generator you decide to use. I helped a friend of mine built a LT1 87 944 many years ago, the wiring was not bad at all. IIRC, he had Renegade do the cluster mods to get the tach to read right. The rest of the Renegade kit was pretty decent, he did not have to mod or tweak anything to get their parts to work right. Based on that, I would recommend them. I have 2 EFI LS swaps under my belt too, the third one is running a carb now, but is going EFI this winter. Wiring is relatively easy..
..
Wiring is actually pretty straightforward once you get the motor in the car.
Regarding the engine harness, power to the vehicle and cluster communication, most of it is simpler than you think.
If you want the stock cluster to work with the LS engine, the coolant temp and oil pressure senders are relatively easy to adapt. There are several options to go there, depending on the OEM porsche senders, and what they used for threads. The engine harness only needs power, and a sub-fuse panel to run all of that is relatively simple. YOu only need about 6-7 fuses and 2 relays to run an LS engine. Powering the vehicle is as easy as tapping the old alternator power lead, and hooking it up to whatever generator you decide to use. I helped a friend of mine built a LT1 87 944 many years ago, the wiring was not bad at all. IIRC, he had Renegade do the cluster mods to get the tach to read right. The rest of the Renegade kit was pretty decent, he did not have to mod or tweak anything to get their parts to work right. Based on that, I would recommend them. I have 2 EFI LS swaps under my belt too, the third one is running a carb now, but is going EFI this winter. Wiring is relatively easy..
.. Wiring is actually pretty straightforward once you get the motor in the car.
BIGCOWL-IMP
Club Member
Have you found anything yet ?
http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/pts/3309407778.html
http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/pts/3309407778.html
Justindwright
Club Member
that would be perfect for my lincoln mark vii swap!
Scooter70
Club Member
Cool swap. Have you checked the Conversions & Hybrids section of LS1Tech? Tons of info there.
BTW, it's very common on 4th gens to cut a hole to replace the fuel pump vs dropping the tank. It saves several hours of labor the first (and second) time you have to change the pump. They die pretty much as soon as the tank runs dry.
BTW, it's very common on 4th gens to cut a hole to replace the fuel pump vs dropping the tank. It saves several hours of labor the first (and second) time you have to change the pump. They die pretty much as soon as the tank runs dry.
Birdie2000
Club Member
That's an extremely common method for swapping the fuel pump. Enough so that most people seem to consider that the "proper" way to do it. The previous owner did that in my car and actually it came out really nice to the point I (who was once against it) now have come to the dark side an accepted it as a "good" way to do it.
Birdie2000
Club Member
Sounds about right.
93 saturn sl2
Forum Member
You showed up at the Dirt's house in the Lambo?
JoeliusZ28
Club Member
Awesome build nick. Looking forward to seeing it done. Btw I cut the same 6x14" hole in my car. For most people it's either hack up the exhaust or hack that hole. Also having it done allows you to change a failed pump on the side of the road. But for me it was that "it's just a Camaro" :lol:
