Trousersnake
Forum Member
Oh another quick ? Blue Dawn? I remember back in the day that was like first step of stripping all the old wax off a car? is it to harsh?
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Marc@AutoLavish
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Dawn can be used and will work well. It is a little more harsh than anything I'd want to use, but you'll only be using it once, so it shouldn't make that big of a difference.
Congrat's again on the Cobra! After a thorough washing with Dawn, take your time claying her. Any over the counter kit should work fine for this use, and keep in mind to use plenty of lube and light pressure, and do things a panel at a time.
A wax alone won't rid your finish of swirls - it's a protective agent. To truly remove swirls, you'll need to relevel your clear-coat using some type of polish. The polish needed depends on the machine you'll use and the clear-coat hardness of the vehicle. Some glazes can help to minimize the appearance of swirls temporarily, but the only solution is properly polishing. Keep in mind that swirls will quickly come back without using a good washing technique (two bucket method with Grit Guards and clean carefully cared for microfiber).
Marc@AutoLavish
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This all comes down to personal preference. While I will NEVER use a sponge, there are plenty of great guys that do use them. To me you either go with lamb's wool or microfiber, and you surely want something with a long pile to help capture dirt and pull it away from the vehicle's surface. The other step is having a good shampoo that allows that dirt to be released easily.
For microfiber mitts, you've probably seen in our write-ups we use something along these lines: http://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage..._4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1301073734&sr=1-4
Nearly all the mitts like that are just about the same. There's A LOT of re-branding when it comes to that design. While they can work well, I honestly prefer a sheepskin mitt. Very thick and soft. The problem of course, is they break down and don't last nearly as long. Keep this in mind though: some see that as a good thing.
If you're using an old microfiber mitt, it's likely not nearly as soft anymore (you know how old microfiber towels can get, and even good ones need to not be used on paint after a certain amount of use) and can potentially cause damage to your finish. The real problem is knowing at what point your mitt is no good. If you have a wool mitt, the inside leather will break down and the mitt will basically fall apart - you'll have no choice but to replace the mitt.
As washing is the time you're most likely to cause swirls, this isn't the point where saving a few pennies is worth it. This is the time where you want to make sure everything is in order to be done correctly.
Lots of options: but I'll only list a couple:
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Accessories-M12/Sheepskin-Wash-Mitt-P120/
Or save a buck for the one without the thumb: http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Accessories-M12/Sheepskin-Wash-Mitt-wno-thumb-P209/
Ultra-baller status would be Dodo Juice's "Wookie's fist" which is just insane. Reviews overall are good, but some people say it's actually too big and thick. Word is this baby can hold like a quarter to a half gallon of water: http://www.autogeek.net/supernatural-wash-mitt.html
Order the one from Phil over at detailersdomain to save a few bucks: http://www.detailersdomain.com/ubergeninuewoolwashmitt.aspx
I have no doubt I'd love the Wookie's fist mitt, but I'm just not balling out of control enough to get it. I'd rather purchase three normal wool mitts. Of course you do have the new Mustang and mods, so you should probably consider it Daddy Warbucks
Hope this helps!
riche
Forum Member
I just picked up a 81 white fairmont. Paint in ok shape and i know it isnt going to be even close to perfect. What is the best way to get the dirt out of the paint. I washed a small section but it takes a lite compound to bring get the dirt and bring the white back. Any other solutions via internet!!
Marc@AutoLavish
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Honestly, no. But with the cost of replacing a single panel of leather being around $200-300, I don't see a reason to not spend $20-40 on proper leather care products.
Exactly. Clay Clay Clay.
Marc@AutoLavish
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Oh and may I also add that it is likely single stage white paint I'm guessing, which means there's likely some oxidation built up on the exterior which would require polishing to remove.
Marc@AutoLavish
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Pick up a bottle of Leather Master Soft Cleaner and Leather Master Protection Cream. Some of the best products on the market IMO/IME. Don't be fooled by the name: the Soft Cleaner certainly gets the job done, and the Protection Cream is a water-based sacrificial barrier that'll help to reduce wear and the accumulation of dirt and grime.
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Marc@AutoLavish
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Soft Cleaner: http://detailersdomain.com/carcareproducts/leathercleaner/LeatherMasterSoftCleaner.html
Protection Cream: http://detailersdomain.com/carcareproducts/leatherconditioner/LeatherMasterProtectionCream.html
I find using a small bristled brush works best for the soft cleaner - I personally use a toothbrush.
Protection Cream: http://detailersdomain.com/carcareproducts/leatherconditioner/LeatherMasterProtectionCream.html
I find using a small bristled brush works best for the soft cleaner - I personally use a toothbrush.
Marc@AutoLavish
Club Sponsor
Not a problem and happy detailing
Trousersnake
Forum Member
Dr. Colorchip.. what are you thoughts? should I do a full detail with 3 stage paint correction before or after the Dr.Colorchip?
Marc@AutoLavish
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Touch ups CAN help... but they'll never be truly perfect. The idea is to make the chips less noticeable. I'd recommend doing it prior to any polishing. Make sure to do a good prep - clean the car and then clean the chips with alcohol for better bonding.
Birdie2000
Club Member
So let's say I was getting a front bumper repainted, and naturally they'd want to blend into the surrounding panels. Should I have the bumper repainted before or after paint correction? Obviously the final buff/sealant would be after the bumper's been repainted.
