Ask AutoLavish! Answers to your car care questions...

[Det_Riot]

Hey guys, I bought a buncha detailing things over winter but i only have a random orbital 10" buffer. Would it even be worth it to try paint correction with a 10" buffer? What type of bonnets would I need to see any result? The products that I got are as follows:
CG 721
CG 778
CG Nano Polish
CG Pro Polish 3n
Poorboys ssr1
PB ssr2.5
PB EX-P
PB all in one polish and wax
Meguirs NXT wax
Thanks in advance guys!

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

got any tricks for getting the gold hue out of a 304 stainless exhaust system?

You'll want to use #0000 stainless steel and a good cleaner - All Purpose Cleaner or metal cleaner. Still might not come out 100%, but it should greatly improve!

So let's say I was getting a front bumper repainted, and naturally they'd want to blend into the surrounding panels. Should I have the bumper repainted before or after paint correction? Obviously the final buff/sealant would be after the bumper's been repainted.

I think the biggest importance of having things done before would be to give the painter a better chance at getting the color better matched. Aside from that, the car will likely need a light claying and polishing after coming back from the painter depending on how they prep the vehicle.



Sorry for the delays guys!

 

[Quick86]

Yup. We use #0000 steel wool on chrome all the time. GM chrome end caps that have surface rust from dirt.

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

Hey guys, I bought a buncha detailing things over winter but i only have a random orbital 10" buffer. Would it even be worth it to try paint correction with a 10" buffer? What type of bonnets would I need to see any result? The products that I got are as follows:
CG 721
CG 778
CG Nano Polish
CG Pro Polish 3n
Poorboys ssr1
PB ssr2.5
PB EX-P
PB all in one polish and wax
Meguirs NXT wax
Thanks in advance guys!

Hey there- looks like you've collected quite a few items that you can put to use. A R.O. isn't going to give you the correction power of a Dual Action Polisher like the Porter Cable 7424XP, Griot's Pro DA, or Meguiar's G110v2. If you want to really try clearing up your paint, it's worth purchasing a DA for the $130-150 price tag that's asked for them. They're very effective but still pretty safe - especially compared to a rotary buffer.

 

[Quick86]

Just won this: Spray-On Detailer/Wash from Griot's Garage in a contest.



Ever used it?

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

Just won this: Spray-On Detailer/Wash from Griot's Garage in a contest.

Ever used it?

I haven't used it, and I don't trust "waterless wash" products. That being said... Griot's is a smart company; they take other popular products / ideas and re-brand them / create something similar. Your chances of getting something bad from them are slim, unless it's just something like my case; I don't like a whole category of products.
Even if you don't end up liking it to wash wish, it'll likely make an awesome quick detailer for bird-bombs (keep it in the trunk with a good microfiber), for gently removing light dust (I'd still rather wash), etc. Getting something for free is always nice!

 

[Quick86]

Yeah - I was going to keep her in the trunk with a nice microfiber for when I get to a car show or something along those lines for a "touch up" job.

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

Good idea for sure. Give it a nice and honest try - you never know what product might impress you.

 

[91trunk]

Marc,

I need some suggestions on wheels. I've got 24's on my truck and with this SHITTY weather lately I can't seem to keep them clean. What can I use after cleaning them to help make clean up easier next time? I've heard wax, but is there something that combats brake dust better? Oh and where did you guy buy that wand foam adapter for your power sprayer?

Thanks!

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

Marc,

I need some suggestions on wheels. I've got 24's on my truck and with this SHITTY weather lately I can't seem to keep them clean. What can I use after cleaning them to help make clean up easier next time? I've heard wax, but is there something that combats brake dust better? Oh and where did you guy buy that wand foam adapter for your power sprayer?

Thanks!

Hey there Matt,
The new truck looks crazy, but those big chrome wheels can surely be a handful to care for without the right tools and products. First and foremost I'd recommend investing in dedicated brushes to use on your wheels along with a good wheel cleaner. Brake dust is the enemy, and if allowed to build up or sit for too long the etching that it does is permanent. No wax or sealant alone can stand a chance: we're talking about metal shards that stick into the finish.

Luckily for you, detailedimage.com currently has a sale going on for all wheel care products: http://www.detailedimage.com/Sales/Save-20-on-Wheel-and-Tire-Products-SP36/

The things to purchase are:
o P21S Wheel Cleaner Gel in the 500ml size along with the full refill jug of P21S Wheel Cleaner Gel (5L). This will be your go-to wheel cleaner that is very effective and very safe.
o DI Accessories E-Z Detail Brush (full size)
o Wheel Wax

Basically you'll be looking at $120 AKA less than 1/10th the value of your wheels to keep them "like-new." In addition, you'll want a soft feeling brush sourced from a local auto parts store to use for the faces / calipers. Total cost you'll spend might end up to $150, but once again, that's a small fraction of the money you'll save from having to have just one wheel re-finished because of damage / pitting / peeling. The thing I love about large wheels is how easy it is to clean the inside of them: the E-Z Detail brush means you can get behind the spokes, inside the barrels of the wheels, and between the spokes without a problem. In addition, it'll be easy to wax them ever time or every other time you give them a thorough cleaning. While this won't prevent all brake dust, you'll notice a big difference in how easily the dust comes off the finish. Wheel wax isn't a repellent; it's a sacrificial barrier.

Care for those bad-boys properly and they'll look outstanding for years.

Let me know how things turn out for your wheels!


The foam cannon was sourced from autogeek.net, but is just a relabeled one from an Italian manufacturer. You'll need to make sure to order the correct fitting for your brand of pressure washer and then you'll be all good to go!

 

[91trunk]

Thanks Marc!

 

[Quick86]

Okay - here's one.


Crappy pic - but you'll get the idea... I have a LOT of polished goodies under the hood I want to keep looking clean. Any sealant you can recommend for me? I'm not sure how a standard product would work being how hot everything gets under there....

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

Okay - here's one.
Crappy pic - but you'll get the idea... I have a LOT of polished goodies under the hood I want to keep looking clean. Any sealant you can recommend for me? I'm not sure how a standard product would work being how hot everything gets under there....

You got that right! Go with something along the lines of Blackfire Metal Sealant or Wheel Wax. The Blackfire Metal Sealant is made for higher temps, and something made for wheels should also take temperature into consideration.

That, or get in the habit of using a spray wax / spray sealant on the metal goodies every time or every other time you wash the car.

 

[DRAG-ULA]

Hey guys, awesome thread!! Thanks for taking the time. I have a question for you. My car has a vinyl top, and I like the natural look,
(not shiny) so I haven't put anything on it. It's a little over 2 years old. Is there something I should use to keep it from drying out that won't change the appearance? Or should I not worry about it? This is a weekend & nice weather cruiser, always garage kept, so it's not out in the sun all the time. Thanks!!

 

[Overboost]

Marc, no love for the Poorboys Wheel Sealant? Any reason why? I've had good luck with it so far.

Oh, and I ordered the Meguiar's DA Polishing kit. Have you guys used it yet? Any feedback?

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

Hey guys, awesome thread!! Thanks for taking the time. I have a question for you. My car has a vinyl top, and I like the natural look,
(not shiny) so I haven't put anything on it. It's a little over 2 years old. Is there something I should use to keep it from drying out that won't change the appearance? Or should I not worry about it? This is a weekend & nice weather cruiser, always garage kept, so it's not out in the sun all the time. Thanks!!

Not a problem: all car lovers should have access to truthful and accurate information. This community does a lot to help fellow car enthusiasts and we figure this is just us doing our part.
If you want to keep your vinyl top looking good long term you'll treat it with something that has UV ray protection. The downside is most products that offer good protection won't give it that 100% natural / matte look. I'd still recommend using something like 303 Aerospace Protectant though as it'll help long term. To lower the shine of a product, apply it to a towel, and then wipe it on the surface. After 10-15 minutes, lightly buff with a clean and dry towel to lower the shine a bit. This will only have to be done once or twice a year with a car that's carefully kept (garage, rarely driven, etc).

Marc, no love for the Poorboys Wheel Sealant? Any reason why? I've had good luck with it so far.

Oh, and I ordered the Meguiar's DA Polishing kit. Have you guys used it yet? Any feedback?

Wheel waxes can help, but they can also take up a lot of time. Most times we just use Optimum Opti-Seal on wheels for some quick spray-on protection. Surprisingly enough, the Armor-All wheel protectant spray (in an aerosol can) works AMAZING.
The DA microfiber kit is amazing. D300 + the microfiber cutting pad is our new favorite heavy polish. Works well, is smooth, low dusting, wipes off easy, smells nice. Using the complete kit (polish + AIO) is great for quicker jobs, but I'd prefer to not use the "finishing wax" as it has silicones in it which can hide things. We now have about 10 of the microfiber cutting pads

 

[DRAG-ULA]

Thanks Marc!!

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

Thanks Marc!!

Not a problem and happy detailing: keep your baby looking good!

 

[Uncle B]

Marc,

I didn't read through this whole thread, so if the topic has been covered just let me know and I will find it.

Could you explain the proper method for clening an engine bay. I recall from some of your posts that you guys use the foam canon and power washer. Is there any precautions that I should take before taking a power washer to the engine bay?

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

Marc,
I didn't read through this whole thread, so if the topic has been covered just let me know and I will find it.
Could you explain the proper method for clening an engine bay. I recall from some of your posts that you guys use the foam canon and power washer. Is there any precautions that I should take before taking a power washer to the engine bay?

Car wash shampoo (even if foamed on) isn't enough to clean a lot of engine bays. All Purpose Cleaners (NOT Simple Green though as it can damage aluminum) and degreasers are often needed with the help of a little agitation.
When using a pressure washer, you always need to take things into consideration. Not causing damage is a big concern as always, but being careful and knowing what can and can not get blasted / soaked is the key to a good result.

In short, be careful. If you have a gas-powered unit, be extra careful. It's much easier to do a light cleaning and then have to do another light follow up cleaning than damaging anything.