Ask AutoLavish! Answers to your car care questions...

[Marc@AutoLavish]

303 Rocks. I use it on my interior as well. Although hard to find, I did find some at the marine store on 14 Mile & Dequindre.

Thanks for chiming in to help. Always good to hear from multiple guys who have experience with a product rather than just one source.
It sure can be tough to find - I think most people just order it online. A little goes a long way and a bottle should last A LONG time.
I'm not crazy about using it on my interior because I don't like the finish as much as some other products I have - but it's a very good product regardless and I'd highly recommend it.

 

[CLC85TA]

Here's one that might be a bit of a curveball....

What should I use on cloth (say headliner or sunvisor) to remove adhesive left behind when you peel those gaudy warning labels off? It's on black cloth.

I have not tried goof-off or goo-gone or any of the standard adhesive removers for fear of leaving behind adhesive or discoloring the fabric.

Thanks!
Ryan

 

[Overboost]

+1 on using 303. I've been using it for a while and have nothing but good things to say about it. Also seems like there are more uses for it than I originally though. Never a bad thing.

 

[YLWFVR]

Thanks for chiming in to help. Always good to hear from multiple guys who have experience with a product rather than just one source.
It sure can be tough to find - I think most people just order it online. A little goes a long way and a bottle should last A LONG time.
I'm not crazy about using it on my interior because I don't like the finish as much as some other products I have - but it's a very good product regardless and I'd highly recommend it.

What I like about it is the non shiny finish. As you said, a little goes a long way. I've also noticed that it does not attract as much dust as other interior products.

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

Here's one that might be a bit of a curveball....

What should I use on cloth (say headliner or sunvisor) to remove adhesive left behind when you peel those gaudy warning labels off? It's on black cloth.

I have not tried goof-off or goo-gone or any of the standard adhesive removers for fear of leaving behind adhesive or discoloring the fabric.

Thanks!
Ryan

Crap...that's why I never took mine off
I wouldn't want to use any type of liquid as it'll likely be absorbed into the fabric more than an aerosol spray would. I guess you should try something like a wax and adhesive remover in a can. Keep in mind you'll be better off with multiple light applications and scrubbing than to use one heavy dose and risk damage / discoloration.

 

[Roadrage]

Ok, how bout this. 2000 Jeep GC Laredo with the plastic body cladding on the lower 1/2 of the truck (plus the bumpers). The plastic was a dark grey when new, but has faded to an ash gray. I used armor all on them and they look great until it rains or gets washed. To compound the problem, some goo gone ran down the plastic when the badges were removed, and now there are bright white streaks on it when the armor all wears off. Is there another product I could use to get the plastic back in decent shape that doesnt wear off quickly?

 

[Jacob@AutoLavish]

Ah, the fluke multi-meter looking plastic mega moulding. If the companies would not have painted the body underneath the moulding as a cost savings it would make more sense...

Of course these plastics get bombarded by sun, temperature, and all the harsh cleaning chemicals for many years. Nothing will make it look new again, but there are a few things that can help make it look better. First step is the thoroughly clean it. Get some wax remover or solvent and try to clean the plastics' surface as good as possible. Next, try something to "condition" the plastic. There is a product called Black Wow that works wonders. A few applications of this over a week or so should drastically improve its appearance. You can also try peanut butter (creamy please as the nuts will cause scratching). Apply, let sit a little, then wipe off. The oils help darken and equalize the plastics' appearance. Back to Black is another product, similar to shoe shine polish, that some people like. You could also just try shoe polish (kiwi brand?).

Once this is done, regular upkeep should only require typical armor all or other trim detailer. Let us know how it works!

 

[Roadrage]

Thanks for the advice, I will give those a shot!

 

[89five.o]

Thanks for the advice. I tried finding information on cleaning interior surfaces but didn't see anything. What sort of things would work best for cleaning armrests/seats on foxbodies? I usually just use a bit of dish soap and water. Also, are there any good interior surface protectants that leave a matte finish? I really dislike the look of armor-all and hate how it attracts dust.

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

Thanks for the advice. I tried finding information on cleaning interior surfaces but didn't see anything. What sort of things would work best for cleaning armrests/seats on foxbodies? I usually just use a bit of dish soap and water. Also, are there any good interior surface protectants that leave a matte finish? I really dislike the look of armor-all and hate how it attracts dust.

I take it the question is about cleaning hard interior surfaces. First off - keep away from dish soap. Using harsh disinfectants isn't needed on your car - no need to sanitize the finish in order to safely eat off the surface.
In place, try using a light dilution of Woolite (10:1 or if its the Woolite for H.E. washers, try it 15:1) and a soft bristle brush to work away the build-up and wipe fresh with a soft towel (cotton is fine). For dressing / protecting, our favorite product is 1Z Cockpit Premium as it has light cleaning ability, a very light neutral lemon scent, and the PERFECT matte finish. Another good product is something like Meguiar's #40 as it has UV ray protection and a satin finish.
An additional tip for dressings is to wait 2-5 minutes and wipe the residue to leave less shine. This works for everything from interior products to tires.

 

[YLWFVR]

I take it the question is about cleaning hard interior surfaces. First off - keep away from dish soap. Using harsh disinfectants isn't needed on your car - no need to sanitize the finish in order to safely eat off the surface.
In place, try using a light dilution of Woolite (10:1 or if its the Woolite for H.E. washers, try it 15:1) and a soft bristle brush to work away the build-up and wipe fresh with a soft towel (cotton is fine). For dressing / protecting, our favorite product is 1Z Cockpit Premium as it has light cleaning ability, a very light neutral lemon scent, and the PERFECT matte finish. Another good product is something like Meguiar's #40 as it has UV ray protection and a satin finish.
An additional tip for dressings is to wait 2-5 minutes and wipe the residue to leave less shine. This works for everything from interior products to tires.

I've been using this stuf for 5 years now, and it works great. It was recommended by Vette Essentials who installed my leather interior.


http://www.vetteessentials.com/leather/cleaningkit.htm

 

[Overboost]

Is Woolite the way to go for using a shampoo to clean the carpet?

Also, any sound recommendations for a vacuum that actually can hold its own? The Craftsman shop vac I have doesn't seem to cut it anymore.

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

I've been using this stuf for 5 years now, and it works great. It was recommended by Vette Essentials who installed my leather interior.
http://www.vetteessentials.com/leather/cleaningkit.htm

GREAT... no... PERFECT set for maintaining your leather. Leather Master products are top notch. All we have for leather is products made by them or Leatherique.

Is Woolite the way to go for using a shampoo to clean the carpet?
Also, any sound recommendations for a vacuum that actually can hold its own? The Craftsman shop vac I have doesn't seem to cut it anymore.

It can be be we prefer a light dilution (10:1 or 15:1) of APC. Regardless - make sure you don't over-saturate the fabric as you don't want to leave a bunch of soapy residue behind that will end up attracting dirt faster.
We have two shop-vacs, a large 6hp one from Home Depot, and a smaller wall-mount Craftsman. Something that really helps is having the extension sets.

 

[white out]

So I drove up to Mackinac last weekend and had 1.5 million dead bugs on the front of the car. I hand washed it yesterday, but many of the bugs ~ 750,000 wouldn't come off. Making a 250 mile drive this weekend to Supercar Saturday and would like the front of the car to not be poke-a-dot.
The only thing I can think of is a high pressure do-it-yourself wash. . . Autolavish, what should I do?

Nick

 

[b78cobra]

What is the stuff you use to foam under the hood? is there a lot of scrubing involved also? Under my hood is pretty damn clean, it just gets dusty and the black stuff is hard to make look shiny and new.

 

[dirtybird]

Great thread!

 

[white out]

We've all been there before either from long road trips, or driving in the boony's at night. The first step is to make sure you have an adequate layer of your favorite wax/sealant on your car as a sacrificial barrier.
The real problem with bugs isn't so much their tough exoskeleton, but their acidic nature that can etch your paint. If you get to them soon enough, you should be able to wash them off. If they've really dried and gotten baked on (99% of the time is the case), lightly spray a bug & tar remover product (body solvent, goo-gone, gasoline, alcohol, etc can also work) either directly on to the guts, or onto a spare microfiber towel and gentle wipe away, or flush away with a stream of water from the hose or pressure washer. I'd always recommend using the lightest product first - so if you can wash them off without using chemicals: that's preferred. A bottle of bug and tar remover can easily be found at your local auto parts store and is worth the few dollar investment for something that works extremely quickly and efficiently.
Make sure to re-wax the affected area as the acid nature of bugs will strip wax, as will any chemical strong enough to remove them.
Hope this helps and happy driving

Thank you!

Nick

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

What is the stuff you use to foam under the hood? is there a lot of scrubing involved also? Under my hood is pretty damn clean, it just gets dusty and the black stuff is hard to make look shiny and new.

We usually foam the engine bay when we're foaming down a car. Additionally, degreaser is usually used under the hood at a 4:1 dilution. Physical agitation is ALWAYS needed - just like wheels. If you're looking for a spray on / rinse off product - it doesn't exist. Some quality brushes do wonders when paired with the correction products / chemicals.
For dressing, find a product you like. 303 Aerospace Protectant was talked of earlier for interiors / tires. Well guess what: you can use it on your engine bay too if you choose. Any "trim detailer" type of product can be used. Once cleaned and dressed, you might just need light wipe-downs to rid the dust from time to time.

Great thread!

thanks - some great questions too!

Thank you!

Nick

I do what I can

 

[4 cam tbird]

So I drove up to Mackinac last weekend and had 1.5 million dead bugs on the front of the car. I hand washed it yesterday, but many of the bugs ~ 750,000 wouldn't come off. Making a 250 mile drive this weekend to Supercar Saturday and would like the front of the car to not be poke-a-dot.
The only thing I can think of is a high pressure do-it-yourself wash. . . Autolavish, what should I do?

Nick

I go to the quarter car washes and start with the low pressure soap on the bug covered areas and wheels (I use really dusty brake pads). Then flip to high pressure, wash the rest of the car while the low pressure soap soaks. Then I blast the bugs with the high pressure. Usually works pretty good, especially right after waxing and if it hasn't sat out in the sun.

 

[4v Shane]

What is the secret of removing specks of road tar? I have tried dang near everything and have had no prevail ?