78 caballero
- Thread starter The ghoul
- Start date
Big block starter is a different part # than the small block so I had hoped it would be higher torque.
98%sure it's not the jumper cables but what the hell, I'll check.
Pushrods are the same as they were when this engine ran when I pulled it. I adjusted the rockers by making sure the cylinder was on compression stroke tightening it till the push rod no longer clicked when juggled than 1/8" more.
I can't think of a better ground than the negitive of the jumper cable clamped directly to the starter housing...
98%sure it's not the jumper cables but what the hell, I'll check.
Pushrods are the same as they were when this engine ran when I pulled it. I adjusted the rockers by making sure the cylinder was on compression stroke tightening it till the push rod no longer clicked when juggled than 1/8" more.
I can't think of a better ground than the negitive of the jumper cable clamped directly to the starter housing...
Well shit now this went and happened...
Buddy came up with a basket case 4 bolt 350 packing some old school go-fast goodies. Been sitting ripped appart for the last 3 years or so..
He said the guy that sold it to Jim's said it had forged pistons, lt-1 rods, dart heads.... He showed him the paperwork but didn't give it to him for some reason, naturally I'm trying to identify the parts and see exactly what I'm working with....
So any info or leads let me know..
Stamped # on rockers (also arp bolts?)
Casting # on heads no stock casting # under intake runner
These are the measurements I was able to take
Intake runners 1.22x1.99
Exhaust runner 1.42x1.375
Intake valve 2.015
Exhaust 1.598
68cc chamber
Intake appears to be an edelbrock
Carb is a Hollie double pumper, but other than some individual part numbers there were no obvious model number
Pistons are marked "trw" on the bottom and "L2256 030" on the top. I assume 030 refers to 30 over bore.
Connecting rods seem a little smoother and more silver looking than cast rods. Perhapse they are the 70's lt-1 forged or powder metal rods? They do sport ARP studs!
Cam had cast numbers along its length
p1 c3 j0
Cwc d35
Buddy came up with a basket case 4 bolt 350 packing some old school go-fast goodies. Been sitting ripped appart for the last 3 years or so..
He said the guy that sold it to Jim's said it had forged pistons, lt-1 rods, dart heads.... He showed him the paperwork but didn't give it to him for some reason, naturally I'm trying to identify the parts and see exactly what I'm working with....
So any info or leads let me know..
Stamped # on rockers (also arp bolts?)
Casting # on heads no stock casting # under intake runner
These are the measurements I was able to take
Intake runners 1.22x1.99
Exhaust runner 1.42x1.375
Intake valve 2.015
Exhaust 1.598
68cc chamber
Intake appears to be an edelbrock
Carb is a Hollie double pumper, but other than some individual part numbers there were no obvious model number
Pistons are marked "trw" on the bottom and "L2256 030" on the top. I assume 030 refers to 30 over bore.
Connecting rods seem a little smoother and more silver looking than cast rods. Perhapse they are the 70's lt-1 forged or powder metal rods? They do sport ARP studs!
Cam had cast numbers along its length
p1 c3 j0
Cwc d35
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More good info rolling in, I have recieved verrification that the pistons are infact forged..
and it seems the bPg on the bolts indicated that they are a high strenth bolt (simmular to ARP but not the same)
Ferry Cap & Set Screw Co. acquired the BPG Metal Threaded Fasteners brand. BPG is no longer used, replaced by F - C
http://www.ferrycap.com/
and it seems the bPg on the bolts indicated that they are a high strenth bolt (simmular to ARP but not the same)
Ferry Cap & Set Screw Co. acquired the BPG Metal Threaded Fasteners brand. BPG is no longer used, replaced by F - C
http://www.ferrycap.com/
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beertestr
Club Member
The more popular LT1 rods are from the 90's era LT1's. The 92-94 ones are usually the GM "pink" rods, the 95-97's are the PM rods. The PM rods should have a dimple on the i-beam and are smoother than the pink rods. The cap and rod mating surfaces are machined on that vintage rod, and are not the cracked cap style pm rods used on LS engines.
Ether way, the pink or pm rods can take 500 HP easily, the rod bolts buy you rpm...
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
Ether way, the pink or pm rods can take 500 HP easily, the rod bolts buy you rpm...
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
good info.
Ill have the rods out tonight and look it over.
I suspect the engine to have been built late 80's early 90's so I dont think when he said LT-1 rods he was talking about that gen.... They are pressed wrist pins so I dont think it would be late 60s but they continued the LT-1 into the pressed wrist pin era so I suspect thats what they are from (apparently if so they should be stamped with an "O")
forgot to mention, the carb is stamped with 4777-4 indicating that its a 650... that seems like a good sign to me, shows who ever put it together knew better than to slap a moster carb on it... that or, thats what was laying around/cheap....
Id like to think positive tho! LOL
Well, rods appear to be a whole lot of nothing, they just seem to be clean and a lot of the flashing seem to be cleaned up some. Also the sides of the rods where they touch the other rods/journals are machined. No dimples, and gmk cast into the side of the bolt area.
Not a lot of info on the cam, just this written on the distributer end
and stamped on that same end an M with an L sideways thru it like they were trying to cross it out, than an A and a B or an R can't tell...
Looks like lift is .312 and .314
Had some rust issues with the heads (this was the worst)
so I broke em down and tossed them into some of the wd40 rust remover (had to get creative to get the fluid level higher
When I ripped it appart I noticed the valves were marked and measured the stems
Ex valve hp2470 0.337" stem
In valve 2469 hp 0.339" stem
Not a lot of info on the cam, just this written on the distributer end
and stamped on that same end an M with an L sideways thru it like they were trying to cross it out, than an A and a B or an R can't tell...
Looks like lift is .312 and .314
Had some rust issues with the heads (this was the worst)
so I broke em down and tossed them into some of the wd40 rust remover (had to get creative to get the fluid level higher
When I ripped it appart I noticed the valves were marked and measured the stems
Ex valve hp2470 0.337" stem
In valve 2469 hp 0.339" stem
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Ahhhh, I get it...
lobe lift vs advertised lift so I have a 0.468/0.471
They are based on the stock sbc 1.5 ratio rockers right?
Btw, dragula, this block and heads are comming to your shop soon for a hot wash!
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Yeah, these definetly do not have any thing like that!
Im rather solid on them being sportmen 2 heads.
Looks like the bump stick is either a howard or a crane. crane used 270/270 duration and howard seems to have them in a range of derations both below 270/270 and above so it looks like Ill use 270 as base line for calculations and if it looks like contact will be close I will just suck it up and spend the $200 for a new cam and lifter set...
Im rather solid on them being sportmen 2 heads.
Looks like the bump stick is either a howard or a crane. crane used 270/270 duration and howard seems to have them in a range of derations both below 270/270 and above so it looks like Ill use 270 as base line for calculations and if it looks like contact will be close I will just suck it up and spend the $200 for a new cam and lifter set...
Tired and frustrated.. some one give me $2000 for this and let me be done with it. you get the pritty engine that is (if every one is correct about the starter issue) ready to drop in, and all the patch panels and random parts (clutch peddles and sway bars). I keep the basket case engine.
