Whats better for a track car twin screw or centrifical blower? How much is too much powe?

DarkoStoj

A mysterious figure named Darko
I am kicking around ideas for a new project and was wondering what would be a better power adder option for a pro-touring style muscle car that will see the track often (not drag strip).

Turbo is out since imo the power delivery is going to be less predictable.

centrifugal will slowly add power with rpm, which I think may work well and is my choice so far.

Twin screw will add more power in faster, not sure if this would hurt.

What type of power level do you guys think would be best without going too high?
 
A friend of mine did a project car. On a 2012 5.4 motor with a stock 1.9 roots blower. He then swapped it out for a procharger. The car made 60 more rwhp with the procharger but over 90 less tq than the roots blower. He went back to a roots blower 1 summer later.
 
WEll it depends on the car your gonna put it in to be honest.
Wheelbase weight, etc

But yes a twin screw will give you more instant torque out of the turns....
Now this can hinder you also if its too much torque so its a fine line

In my opinion 400/400 at the wheels is a good place to start off.....see how the ar does as you sort it out

Good luck
-AJ
 
WEll it depends on the car your gonna put it in to be honest.
Wheelbase weight, etc

But yes a twin screw will give you more instant torque out of the turns....
Now this can hinder you also if its too much torque so its a fine line

In my opinion 400/400 at the wheels is a good place to start off.....see how the ar does as you sort it out

Good luck
-AJ

I was thinking more along the lines of 800-900rwhp so it could be fun on the street too. I've never driven on the track, is that too much?
 
You are going to have your work cut out for you trying to get rid of all the heat a twin screw/roots/twin vortices is going to make on a road course.

--Joe
 
You are going to have your work cut out for you trying to get rid of all the heat a twin screw/roots/twin vortices is going to make on a road course.

--Joe

You think an intercooler & large oil cooler could take care of that problem?
 
I was thinking more along the lines of 800-900rwhp so it could be fun on the street too. I've never driven on the track, is that too much?

:lol:

Yes.

If you're building a street car that is occasionally taken to the track, it's one thing. If you're building a legitimate track car, a blown 800 rwhp one is a bad place to start.
 
You are going to have your work cut out for you trying to get rid of all the heat a twin screw/roots/twin vortices is going to make on a road course.

--Joe

This. Heat soak will kill the power in no time at all. For a road track car, N/A is probably best or turbo. When on the track you will most always likely be in the upper RPM/ powerband so turbo lag isn't that big of deal. If you wanna go fast around a track, put more money into the suspension and tires. High HP will only get you faster on the straights, not through the corners. Like someone said above, probably around 400 hp with a good suspension is a good start till you get more experience to handle more power
 
800-900 HP for someone that doesn't have any seat time on a road course reminds me of a quote from the fast and the furious. You just can't climb in the ring with Ali 'cause you think you box. 800-900 HP is going to be complete point and shoot, by which I mean get the car completely out of the corner before you're giving it any gas. You'll have way more fun on a track with less HP that allows you to start to get on the throttle at the apex and really drive the car off the corner. 800-900 HP is going to be Mark Donohue power, ie: The German Porsche engineers often asked Donohue if the motor finally had enough power. His tongue-in-cheek answer was "it will never have enough power until I can spin the wheels at the end of the straightaway in high gear." No one here is Mark Donohue.

I don't know why I'm assuming this is going to be an LS engine? Grab a used LS3, something that you can get cheap enough to get your money out of it later if you want more power than an LS3 will hold but still has a fun amount of power. It'll still be an easy 12 second car with a stock LS3 unless you build a tank. Put in a fuel system that will support 700 HP on boost as that would be a reasonable limit to what will do you any good on a track. When you get some track experience, get used to the car, and get used to/bored with the LS3's power cam it or put a blower on it or whatever then. An LS3 will support 700 HP won't it?
 
Drag racing or road racing?
I've had cent, roots, and turbos. Pros/cons to everything.
Consider the implications of added nose weight and heat soak.
 
To be honest no
Your just going to have to have a few maps and run on different gas if you want
This causes $$$ issues for some but its totally worth it if you can sort the car.

Heat is going to be a major issue...
Your gonna need some serious intercoolers, for the SC, Oil cooler, trans cooler, diff cooler

900 at the wheels is worthless on a road course
everyone will tell you bigger barkes and light weight is the key....
power really sint going to make a deifference, unless your at the right track ie Road America, Leguna Seca, etc
Non of the Gingerman grattan waterford local tracks are big power tracks

it can be done but will be difficult
 
Yeah Darko buy a turbo Miata!!! :)

Or buy Mark Steilow's 800hp, LS9, 69 Camaro.. I bet he is itching to build something new anyways.

An Audi turbo diesel has been known to dominate at Lemans, Daytona, etc. Any turbo can be controlled/limited therefore it rules in almost all applications.
 
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