The ask Tin about audio thread

suggtt48116 said:
hey Tin any experience with B&W speakers? I have a pair of DM 602's that I've had for about 15 years and really like them.
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Keep em, theyre pretty damn good. Are they the floorstanders or the larger bookshelf speakers? Either way, nice speakers.
 
Somebody please tell me they grabbed a pair of these :)
http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/ele/2848451002.html

This is the Altec Lansing I know, the rest of you know them as making cute computer speakers. Those appear to be Model 19s. Ive seen them go for far over $1000 per pair.

model19.jpg


Heres some on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALTEC-LANSI...tronics_R2&hash=item3a7049fd57#ht_1790wt_1398
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Altec-Model...ctronics_R2&hash=item2a1997c62f#ht_500wt_1413
 
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What kinda guts are in that console? Dont be so quick to discard the drivers...some of em are pretty good.
 
What is the difference between watts from an amp, and watts from a reciever? I've been doing a lot testing and for some reason anything with a legit amp sounds like the real deal. I also noticed in a car the 50x4 head unit is a joke compaired to a 50x4 external amp..... what's the deal?

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347convert said:
What is the difference between watts from an amp, and watts from a reciever? I've been doing a lot testing and for some reason anything with a legit amp sounds like the real deal. I also noticed in a car the 50x4 head unit is a joke compaired to a 50x4 external amp..... what's the deal?

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk
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Watts is watts, but the circuit topology and components in it ultimately decide how the amp will sound. Usually, separates have more grunt than integrated amps/receivers because they have less components and better power supplies. Your typical mid/high end amp will be a more discreet circuit, with minimal ICs (chips aka integrated circuits) and a shorter signal path. On top of that, the power supply only has to regulate a minimal number of components, so the power available to the transistors or tubes will be cleaner with less ripple. When you add other things in the same chassis, such as a preamp (for an integrated amp) and/or tuner (for a receiver), more components draw from the power supply which inherently introduces distortion to the final signal. This is one reason why so many like vintage receivers, the power supplies in them are way overbuilt. They dont introduce any crap because of shoddy power supplies. Fast forward to a modern Denon, Pioneer, Sony, or Onkyo...the power supply causes excess noise because of everything utilizing it. This will somewhat correlate with the THD rating. If you notice, most of the garbage I just mentioned have their THD ratings measured at 1W. Back before the 1980s, THD was generally measured at full rated output. Today, the GOOD manufacturers still rate their stuff at full output. Marantz, Bryson, Rega, Musical Fidelity, McIntosh, NAD, Cambridge, etc all rate their components at its full output. Sure, that shiny new $1000 Denon may be 0.001% THD at 1W, but a new Marantz is rated that at 100x the output power. Thus, the end result will be a cleaner, more refined sound.
 
Looking for opinions on the Klipsch 5.5's from anyone that knows about them. Frequency response looks stellar and they seem solid, but they also seem to be a little less sought after than the 4's.

Also, what should I look out for in the event a cone in partially dented in. Does this seriously affect anything to the point a used pair of speakers should be avoided at all costs? Thanks!
 
I don't think you have anything to be afraid of. If they are original and in good shape for your requirement, I would snag them. The dustcap being pushed in should not have any effect on the sound. Usually you can pop it back out with a vacuum cleaner, although I have not done it, nor tried on mine and they sound fine. Make sure that there is no air leak from the driver, or by pushing the woofer try to feel for air around the dustcap. No leaks and it should be fine.
 
You can fix the dustcap with a shop vac, or you can carefully stick a safety pin in it, and gently pry the dent. Seal the hole with a small spot of silicone sealant. Personally, Id go the shop vac route, as the glue holding the dustcap on is quite strong, and itll maintain its clean look. Like was said above, the dented dustcap shouldnt affect the sound. Afterall, the dustcap in itself isnt a transducer. Its there to keep the voice coil free of debris. The cone is the only part that radiates sound. Ive never heard KG 5.5s, but I have no doubt theyre very nice speakers. The only larger Klipsch I dont care for is the Heresy, its way too light in the low end.
 
More EVs on the way.

One of the people on an audio forum I frequent got a smoking deal on a console stereo with all McIntosh components anda pair of Electro Voice 12TRX coaxial speakers. Right now, I have the 12TRXB, which is similar, but has a smaller ferrite magnet and a T350 horn tweeter. The 12TRX on the other hand, has a much larger and stronger alnico (aluminum/nickel/cobalt) magnet, as well as a T35 tweeter. The 12TRX is a very rare speaker, not many come up for sale, and when they do, they usually go for $200 to $400 each depending on the market. Not only does it have a better magnet and tweeter, but they also use an external crossover, which is good because I plan on grabbing 8HD mid-horns with T25A compression drivers. After all the parts are acquired, Im going to assemble brand new crossovers, and be off and running. I wasnt looking for another pair of drivers, but the guy gave me a price I couldnt refuse.

12TRX back
DSC_0263.jpg


12TRX front
DSC_0262.jpg


8HD diffraction horn w/ T25A compression driver
8HDT25A.jpg
 
Here is a question for you, My and a buddy bought a 28' enclosed trailer that we are building living quarters in the first 12' of. Looking to put a good audio system in it on 12v power. Trailer will have tv, dish network, and an xbox so I need to set up something that will work good for all of this and still be able to get down when we got the jams on. Would also like to incorporate the ability to have 2 speakers that can either be hooked up outside or moved outside for when we are not in the trailer. AND GO! lol
 
Since you plan on running a few sources (Xbox, TV, etc), youre going to need an integrated amp, but they dont make any on the home side that could be modified to work with 12V without extensive modification. Your best bet would be a car head unit, but you may also have to run car speakers for that, since car stereos dont have terminals for bare speaker wire. Have a look over at mp3car.com, they should have something there for you. I wont lie, this is foreign territory to me.
 
sofa king said:
Those KG4's look to have seen better days... Especially for $250.
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Yeah thats what I thought as well. Looks like the veneer is very dry. On the bright side, the cabs look easy to restore. I always used Restore-a-Finish and Feed 'n Wax on cabinets and furniture with dry wood...brings em right back to life.
 
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