roll cage 8 or 10

85capri

85capri

New member
i have a 85 capri t-top car im building it has around 600 at the flywheel havent tid the frame yet but with a bigger pt rollcage could i eliminate the frame ties?? and ne body hear ne thing bout anti roll bars good or bad??thx
 
1. It's a unibodied car, it MUST have the framerails connected if you plan on racing it, especially at the track with slicks.

2. It's a T-top car, so its structurally more likely to twist, making it even more important that you have the framerails connected.

3. Decide how fast you intend to go with the car, and build the cage / chassis to meet the requirements. With the power you say you have, in a light car you could run high 9's, meaning other safety requirements beyond just the cage. Go here to get a rule book http://nhra.com/

4. If you want the car to leave straight, you WANT an anti-roll bar.
 
What is the car going to be used for - street/ street strip/ or only strip? Like was stated, I would build to nhra rules, what way you're covered. But if it's only going to be a street car, I would avoid a 10pt. The bars up by your head could cause some serious head injury in an accident with no helmet.
 
If the car has any notion of cross 9.999999999 get a 10 poit and be done with it. At the time of construction the extra cost will be minimal.
 
they have sfi approved padding that feels hard but saves lives in accidents...i mean if theres no airbag, your heads gonna hit something, and odds are it would be just as hard as that cage...imo the cage is the way to go for structural support and safety properly engineered and installed
 
im just planning on a street\slip type deal u know. right now it has et streets 26x10.5x15 im hoping that should be plenty. i dont really plan on running 9's i was thinkin lik low 11 high 10, but im sure id love it to go 9's thx for ur help have to give jegs or summit a call now to get all the new parts for christmas i was a good boy this yr lol
 
85capri said:
im just planning on a streetslip type deal u know. right now it has et streets 26x10.5x15 im hoping that should be plenty. i dont really plan on running 9's i was thinkin lik low 11 high 10, but im sure id love it to go 9's thx for ur help have to give jegs or summit a call now to get all the new parts for christmas i was a good boy this yr lol
Click to expand...

Ok, this isn't my first day at this stuff, but you have me somewhat confused.....


You say the engine produces roughly 600 hp...Yet, you only expect to run low 11's or high 10's????

Does the car weigh 4000 lbs??? (There's NO WAY, unless you added a TON of ballast) Because unless you can't drive, the car can't hook, or you short shift the hell out of it, its gonna go A LOT quicker than high 10's.

That car probably weighs around 3100, less if you gutted it. Even at the 3100, with 600 FWHP, you could go 9.90-9.80's.


So, I must ask, is 600 hp a "real" number, or your own personal "guestimate"?
 
QuickLX said:
Does the car weigh 4000 lbs??? (There's NO WAY, unless you added a TON of ballast) Because unless you can't drive, the car can't hook, or you short shift the hell out of it, its gonna go A LOT quicker than high 10's.

That car probably weighs around 3100, less if you gutted it. Even at the 3100, with 600 FWHP, you could go 9.90-9.80's.
Click to expand...
hehe my ta makes over 600 at the tire but only runs mid 10's
 
1BADAIR said:
hehe my ta makes over 600 at the tire but only runs mid 10's
Click to expand...

Well, if your TA weighs as much as a friend of mine's, I can understand why....Leather, A/C, Power everything, etc., etc.....



Am I close?? ;)


It's certainly not an 85 capri.
 
QuickLX said:
Well, if your TA weighs as much as a friend of mine's, I can understand why....Leather, A/C, Power everything, etc., etc.....

Am I close?? ;)

It's certainly not an 85 capri.
Click to expand...
right at 4000lbs race weight with me

BTW don't give up on manual trans. they are cool
 
the car is gutted as of now. i used desktop dyno so im guessing its a rough estimate. i was told by a few ppl what they thought my car would run so i was going off of them. i have a feeling im going to be verysurpised i planed to go to weisers scrap here in westland and get it weighted after i was finished with it. but the total setup is a 360 block bored 60 over 13.5 to 1 pistons port and polished heads as far as they can go wished i couldve got them flow benched but oops stainless steel 202 160 valves 1.5 roller rockers roller lifters .700 lift cam dont know the duration. 727 tourqflight 3500 stall and a 410 gear. i want to get it dynod but thats when im done with it
 
1BADAIR said:
right at 4000lbs race weight with me

BTW don't give up on manual trans. they are cool
Click to expand...


Hey I was pretty close! :)


As for the Stick......It's GONE!! Sold everything!

I now will have a Hutch built TH400 with Pro Brake, 8" 5800 stall, Precision Performance Air Shifter, etc....I am preparing for the future ;)
 
85capri said:
the car is gutted as of now. i used desktop dyno so im guessing its a rough estimate. i was told by a few ppl what they thought my car would run so i was going off of them. i have a feeling im going to be verysurpised i planed to go to weisers scrap here in westland and get it weighted after i was finished with it. but the total setup is a 360 block bored 60 over 13.5 to 1 pistons port and polished heads as far as they can go wished i couldve got them flow benched but oops stainless steel 202 160 valves 1.5 roller rockers roller lifters .700 lift cam dont know the duration. 727 tourqflight 3500 stall and a 410 gear. i want to get it dynod but thats when im done with it
Click to expand...

I would not use desktop bullshit for anything. It's so inaccurate that I can't believe they still sell it.

Is this a MOPAR power and drive train in a Ford??? Very different.

What heads? and who ported them? Who did the cam?
 
thats what i was going for it was either a mopar motor or a 900 horse 4 cyl outta a jet boat but wouldve had to find a trans outta a pinto. the heads ae a stock j style heads. the porting was done by a buddy of mine who used to work at livernois so i dont doubt him none the cam is a comp cam custom grind thats all i know about it
 
one thing i would do if i were you is get that cam to someone and have them do a cam doctor on it. that way you know all the specs and exactly where the cam is going to make power and whatnot. then you should get the motor built and dyno'd. you have to think in the future when you do a cage. whats your ultimate goal with the car?
 
85capri said:
thats what i was going for it was either a mopar motor or a 900 horse 4 cyl outta a jet boat but wouldve had to find a trans outta a pinto. the heads ae a stock j style heads. the porting was done by a buddy of mine who used to work at livernois so i dont doubt him none the cam is a comp cam custom grind thats all i know about it
Click to expand...


I would think high 400 to low 500 hp would be more realistic for this setup if the heads are done right, but the comp cam is what kills it for me. Lots of lift, but their grinds are less than spectacular.

I have a VERY good MOPAR guy that can make you a killer cam should you ever choose to change the one you have.

I think your buddies are right here. low 11's to high 10's is realistic.
 
well the guy that built the motor befor i got it said he had like a 284dur and 600 lift and it ran beter then what it does know but its running off e85 right now u guys think there ne power advatages over turbo blue ???
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top