LSX time???

StockNotch said:
Just don't acknowledge his existence, that alone will give him nothing to be right about and preach on and on about. No matter what you say, you will be wrong. Just go about your life like people like that never came in to your life and things will be much better.

I'd personally like to see this thread get back to the car and, away from this constant bashing of "those who never touched a wrench, and blew his car up. Thus, you are below me as a human being.".
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thanks jason, your not the only one reaching out to me and telling me this about the same person.

like i said this thread can be locked or deleted, no one wants to hear about my sloe 2v anyways! i just dunno how to delete it. unless anyone else wasnt to give some good input or advice on finding the solution to this problem.
 
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A few words coming from a 1000hp plus turbo Cobra guy here with a 4.6

- Get rid of that triple fuel pump set up and get a single pump, perhaps sump the tank. One pump goes bad and you have a lean situation and are melting straps.

-17* on 20 lbs and 10.8 isn't all to bad, but what is your compression? You should be looking at the plugs after every dyno run to verify for no detonation.

-What kind of intake are you running? I have had some severe problems with my intake with fuel distibution that was melting straps and also even melted pistons on a Kurgan tune, shit happens and it sucks.

-Those Teskid blocks are not 2000hp ready. Hell, i broke one at around ~900 mark.

If you have any questions, you can shoot me a pm, good luck in your adventures.
 
An engine can live with detonation occurring for considerable periods of time, relatively speaking. There are no engines that will live for any period of time when pre-ignition occurs. When people see broken ring lands they mistakenly blame it on pre-ignition and overlook the hammering from detonation that caused the problem. A hole in the middle of the piston, particularly a melted hole in the middle of a piston, is due to the extreme heat and pressure of pre-ignition.

Other signs of pre-ignition are melted spark plugs showing splattered, melted, fused looking porcelain. Many times a "pre-ignited plug" will melt away the ground electrode. What's left will look all spattered and fuzzy looking. The center electrode will be melted and gone and its porcelain will be spattered and melted. This is a typical sign of incipient pre-ignition.

The plug may be getting hot, melting and "getting ready" to act as a pre-ignition source. The plug can actually melt without pre-ignition occurring. However, the melted plug can cause pre-ignition the next time around.

The typical pre-ignition indicator, of course, would be the hole in the piston. This occurs because in trying to compress the already burned mixture the parts soak up a tremendous amount of heat very quickly. The only ones that survive are the ones that have a high thermal inertia, like the cylinder head or cylinder wall. The piston, being aluminum, has a low thermal inertia (aluminum soaks up the heat very rapidly). The crown of the piston is relatively thin, it gets very hot, it can't reject the heat, it has tremendous pressure loads against it and the result is a hole in the middle of the piston where it is weakest.

not my words...Allen W. Cline's
 
Baldie said:
A few words coming from a 1000hp plus turbo Cobra guy here with a 4.6

- Get rid of that triple fuel pump set up and get a single pump, perhaps sump the tank. One pump goes bad and you have a lean situation and are melting straps.

-17* on 20 lbs and 10.8 isn't all to bad, but what is your compression? You should be looking at the plugs after every dyno run to verify for no detonation.

-What kind of intake are you running? I have had some severe problems with my intake with fuel distribution that was melting straps and also even melted pistons on a Kurgan tune, shit happens and it sucks.

-Those Teskid blocks are not 2000hp ready. Hell, i broke one at around ~900 mark.

If you have any questions, you can shoot me a pm, good luck in your adventures.
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compression is 9.0:1

Its an edelbrock vr jr with a wilson elbow and tb.

what tank do you suggest?
 
jtcstrat said:
compression is 9.0:1

Its an edelbrock vr jr with a wilson elbow and tb.

what tank do you suggest?
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I think you can use the factory 03-04 tanks with a little modification. I know my 1999 tank wouldnt work but dont quote me exactly, i havent got to that bump in the road yet. Keep this thread going Guido. Theres bound to be some positive to come of it.
 
Baldie said:
A few words coming from a 1000hp plus turbo Cobra guy here with a 4.6

- Get rid of that triple fuel pump set up and get a single pump, perhaps sump the tank. One pump goes bad and you have a lean situation and are melting straps.

-17* on 20 lbs and 10.8 isn't all to bad, but what is your compression? You should be looking at the plugs after every dyno run to verify for no detonation.

-What kind of intake are you running? I have had some severe problems with my intake with fuel distibution that was melting straps and also even melted pistons on a Kurgan tune, shit happens and it sucks.

-Those Teskid blocks are not 2000hp ready. Hell, i broke one at around ~900 mark.

If you have any questions, you can shoot me a pm, good luck in your adventures.
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I brought the point of a pump dying up last night, with the age of the pumps, I think that is a good possibility yet, not entirely the cause of the loss of the motor.

I think another part of it has to be put onto the intercooler core that is on the car now. I don't think its efficient enough to cool the charge down especially when not running on e85+. But, with out logs, I cant be certain with out seeing what the IATs were at. A few of us already agree that the core is to small.
 
jtcstrat said:
compression is 9.0:1

Its an edelbrock vr jr with a wilson elbow and tb.

what tank do you suggest?
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webleedorange619 said:
Glenns makes a nice sumped stock tank.
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pietell90 said:
glenns tanks are very nice... sorry about your luck car was looking good
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Ive got a Glenns tank that would probably be perfect for you if youre interested. Was over $400 new, I got it from webleedorange. It has a -10AN feed and a -8 return, with a stealthy front sump so you cant see it from behind. Make an offer, its brand new, only been used for mockup
 
StockNotch said:
I think another part of it has to be put onto the intercooler core that is on the car now. I don't think its efficient enough to cool the charge down especially when not running on e85+. But, with out logs, I cant be certain with out seeing what the IATs were at. A few of us already agree that the core is to small.
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Intercooler size wouldve become an issue on the dyno back in the heat when this was tuned, not on a 50 degree night goin 100mph
 
cjmatt said:
Intercooler size wouldve become an issue on the dyno back in the heat when this was tuned, not on a 50 degree night goin 100mph
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The size is to small for the amount of air being sent through it. An inefficient core is just not efficient regardless of the size. I can guarantee you that the core on the car is/was not cooling the intake charge as much as it needed to be.
 
Ive just herd some bad stories about glens tanks, isnt it a stock tank with a single line running to the bottom with a filter on it? i have not looked to much into it. isnt it not sumped so i cant run it low?

car has a 3" core IC on it now.. will be looking around 800rwhp through the auto once all said and done
 
cjmatt said:
Ive got a Glenns tank that would probably be perfect for you if youre interested. Was over $400 new, I got it from webleedorange. It has a -10AN feed and a -8 return, with a stealthy front sump so you cant see it from behind. Make an offer, its brand new, only been used for mockup
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pics of tank matt?
 
Magna Fuel 750 here, no issues on the street - has supported well above 800rwhp.

I say ditch the mod motor and go push rod, with all the money you have spent on the 2v you coulda had a dart blocked 9.5 motor
 
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jtcstrat said:
compression is 9.0:1

Its an edelbrock vr jr with a wilson elbow and tb.

what tank do you suggest?
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You will want to make sure you are getting a good reading on all the plugs equally.

What I did was a stock tank, had a buddy make a hat that has a 5/8 line going into the back of the tank and run a Magnafuel, don't buy a A1000. However any sumped tank will work. If you tune with SCT, get a autometer electronic fuel pressure gauge and fun the signal into your SCT Xcal so you can datalog that as we as get some sort of map sensor. This will be extremely valuble data for tuning and other things. Don't run without either at the track without datalogging from now on and save yourself all these headaches hopefully!

Hope this helps a little. Motor looked lean with some detonation.
 
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