how much would you sell it for

chayes7203

New member
Hi guys I was just trying to get an honest opinion on if I'm asking to much cor my car. It's a 92 Ford mustang gt.
First let's start out with the drive line. 8.8 rear end with 31 spline Eaton posi unit, 31 spline auburn axles with long race studs, and a DTS diff cover, after market upper and lower control arms. Stock t-5 trans with polyurethane trans mount, and short throw shifter shifts perfect, resurfaced flywheel, New "DXF" STAGE 3 clutch dual xtereme friction 10 1/2" clutch(exact same clutch as center force) good for up to 600tq. New Steeda adjustable clutch cable, Steeda billet double hook quadrant, UPR billet firewall adjuster. Lakewood driveshaft safety loop, subframe connectors. Now for the engine specs.

306 Ford Competition Small Block (AFR 165cc Aluminum Cylinder Heads)

Hyd Roller 1.470 springs, Machined Keepers, Harden Guide plates were installed 7/16, 2.020 Intake Valves, 1.600 Ex. Valves, Tall Large Radius Harden 3/8 Studs installed, Full Roller Rockers 1:6 Ratio were used, Competition Valve Job, Ford Motorsports Chrome Valve Covers, Erson Valve cover Breathers.
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(306 Ford Race Ready Engine Block)

A 302 Roller Block Was Used, Block was bored .30 over (making it a 306), Block was square decked, Block was square bored, Block was honed with honing plates, Block has oil restrictors installed for the mains, Block was magnafluxed, Block was pressure tested, Engine was trial assemble.

(Competition 306 Ford Parts List Break Down)

A ported upper and lower intake off a 92 mustang gt. The upper has had the throttle body opening opened to 70 mm. The lower was ported to match the opening of the ports on my AFR heads. Also I have a completely cnc'd 1¼ spacer that was custom made for the upper and lower. The upper and lower have had the runners opened upped to match the custom spacer. The whole thing was then sandblasted and painted gloss black and red. MSD 6AL box with two step and rpm selector box. Solid Motor mounts, March A\C delete kit, March Alternator bracket eliminator, Custom exhaust done by alternative performance, BBK long tube headers, Flowmaster mufflers into dumps, BBK fender wall cold air kit, 70 mm BBK throttle body, 76 mm C&L mass air meter, 36lb Ford fuel injectors, March under drive pulleys, Battery relocated to hatch, Nos 150 shot, Nos Heater Blanket, Nos fuel pump, Dyno Tune Dual purge kit, A Roller TFS-2000 Camshaft, Cam has a .499 intake valve lift with factory rocker arms, Cam has a .510 exhaust valve lift with factory rocker arms, Cam has a 112 lobe separation (degrees), Push rods, Mell Oil Pump, Hyd. Roller Lifters, Hyper. Pistons .030 (coated), File fit Chrome Molly Rings, Cast Crank 10/10, Rod and Main Bearings 10/10 FM, Dual Roller Timing Chain, Engine was a 50oz balance, Crank was magnafluxed, A Set of Connecting Rods, Max timing of 36 degrees.

Now for the car itself the exterior color is red. The interior is all black. Paint is in good shape, factory sunroof, after market cd/dvd player, chrome ponys with new tires from Goodyear. The entire car is very well maintained and stored winters. I would like to say never driven in rain but that would be a lie, I don't know of anyone who has never been caught in a sudden rain storm. Oh by the way the motor has 0 miles on it. The only time the motor was ran was when the machine shop ran it to make sure everything was good I am asking $10,000 o.b.o. because the front seats are no longer on the car it also needs a custom tune before it is driven. The rear end and the motor are new with 0 miles the trans is the original but still shifts great. You can go to my profile to see pics of the car I have no idea on how to add them.
 
is the car in pieces still? or assembled and ready to go? How long has the engine been sitting since assembly? 10k for a car in pieces is going to be a tough sell to be honest. If it is in pieces your best bet is to just sell it in pieces. That being said the body better be absolutely mint and the car low mileage to get 10k out of a stock block 302 car.
 
7k if you wait it out but more like 6k for an easy sell, im sure its not what you wanted to hear but its a buyers market right now.
 
The car is all together only thing not done is nitrous lines, subframe connectors and tune for engine. The car has been started to keep everything in working order and oil has been changed every month. The body is in excellent shape only bad spot is on hatch on right side where the wing sits there is a small rust bubble starting to form. The engine has 0 miles and so does the rear end. I have a lot of money into the car with the new engine and rear end and various other aftermarket parts. I know I'm not going to get all my money back I'm just don't want to give the car away either.
 
Also the upper and lower intake is ported to match the heads. I figured I would get 7 if I put it up for 10. The only time I like a buyers market is if I'm the buyer lol.
 
Umm receipts and all? I would put it up on cl for 10gs. It sounds like a very nice car, oh complaint would be the battery, might scare off some people with it being in the hatch.
 
I can't get 10g for my buddy's car that he put 40g into for some reason. I think it's the wrong time of year to sell....
 
Best bet in my opinion would be to sell all the parts off of it then sell the roller. Might take more time but you'll get your $ that way.
 
I can't get 10g for my buddy's car that he put 40g into for some reason. I think it's the wrong time of year to sell....

You're most likely right, but it doesn't cost anything to post on Craigslist (& others) so
why not start now? If it doesn't sell, remove the ad for a week or two and start with
a new ad with new photos in the Spring.
 
I would recommend spending $400 to get it tuned, and sell it 100% ready to go. If I were a buyer, I would need a pretty substantial discount to buy a car that hasn't been tuned by a respected shop. These guys will look the car over, make sure everything is in order, and get it running right. If you do this, I feel the car should be worth somewhere between $6-7K. As is, I feel around $5-6K. In my experience, you can get a lot of Fox for $10K.

EDIT- I just noticed that you don't have seats- I would find some cheap ones prior to selling so people can test drive it.
 
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I'd have to say wait till early to mid spring and put it up then with a 9k price. As soon as spring hits you'll see all the prices go up for pretty much anything fun lol
 
Wait till people start getting there tax money. I have sold alot of cars at tax time. I would guess 7000 would be a starting price. With it all together and running.
And People are going to ask what This Is (306 Ford Race Ready Engine Block) in reality it is just a stock block. If it was dart,svo, A4 you would get more.
 
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It does have the stock seats in it the driver seat just has the infamous mustang lean and wear. That's why I said it will need seats. And I know I would have to come down on the price because its not tuned. Where is this place that tunes for 400 because lidio wants anywhere from 600-1000 and livernois wants 900-1000.
 
I just put all specs the way the engine shop gave it to me but yes I know its a stock block and the engine was tuned for carb by the shop that built it I just wanted to keep it fuel injected because I already had the work done to the intake and wanted to use it.
 
It does have the stock seats in it the driver seat just has the infamous mustang lean and wear. That's why I said it will need seats. And I know I would have to come down on the price because its not tuned. Where is this place that tunes for 400 because lidio wants anywhere from 600-1000 and livernois wants 900-1000.

I just moved to MI from CA last year, and haven't had anyone local tune my cars... Shaun at Advanced Engine Development (http://www.advancedenginedevelopment.com) in Sacramento has tuned all three of my cars and my brother's GT500, and charges a flat rate of $450 to tune any NA or supercharged Ford. This rate assumes that the car is ready to go and fully "tunable", and doesn't include a SCT handheld. The prices you quoted either include a chip/handheld or seem very high to me. Either way, if the car is not tuned and ready to drive, it is automatically a "project" and the asking price must reflect that.
 
same as everyone else but...

get all put together complete, tuned, (DONE) then take it to the track get video of it running what ever time it runs and then ask your price
 
If you really want to get decent money out of it you will need to part it out. it takes awhile and im still stuck with 2 things from my 94 mustang build. Just have to be patient and not give things away. or look for good trades.
 
Lidio must have upped his prices cause when I had my car first tuned it was ~$550. That is money well spent though IMO, unless you know how to tune yourself.
 
I can't get 10g for my buddy's car that he put 40g into for some reason. I think it's the wrong time of year to sell....

I honestly think if you painted the car black or white it would sell at 10k. Maybe put a nice hood on it and bump the price to 12g.
 
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