Fuel and timing ?s

82bird

82bird

Forum Member
The one gallon cell under the hood for the nitrous side has foam in it, should I run w/ it or remove the foam?

To retard my timing for the nitrous, Is is better to run a retard box(electronically activated by nitrous switch), or just set the total timing w/ the distributor at the desired timing. Im running 35 on motor and was going to be pulling 10 - 12 from that.

Lastly, will it be ok to flow my nitrous fuel pressure using a small liquid filled gauge inline between the regulator & solenoid?
 
my foam deteriorated pretty fast and clogged my filters hardcore. I took out the cell, pulled the foam out and flushed the cell out with old gas till i was satisfied.

Pulling timing for n2o i would personally use a box.....10 -12 degrees is enough for quite a bit of n2o.....

Yes. Mine is set up like that....just flow it into a pop bottle if you can find a way to secure the jet (i think they make a holder for them??) or some people have made sure their bottle was closed/off, and flowed the fuel side right into the motor as it was running to set it quickly. You just need to clear out the motor afterwards pretty good. Not sure what rpm to do that at though....im sure others will chime in with other/better ideas.
 
I dont have a timing retard box or a fancy 7al3 MSD, Im just running a 6al box, so i was planning on just locking the distributor in at the desired timing level.

I know how to flow the fuel side, i was just wondering if that would be accurate apposed to using an actual flow tool
 
I removed my foam. No need when the tank is full.

Setting the distributor for nitrous retard works fine. until recently, I've always done it that way. However, I'm glad I have a Mallory 685 box to pull timing. Much easier once it's wired up and MUCH MUCH easier to be precise. It's not easy pulling an extra degree when using just a timing light. On my box, I can pull from .1 to 9.9 degrees.

Flowing it is up to you. You could do it like above and flow it through the engine while running and the bottle CLOSED but a nice big guage takes a like 2 seconds to show the max pressure being applied to it... Is it possible you can foul out your cold nitrous plugs by doing this?? I loop mine back into the nitrous cell. I disconnect the line from the plate, run the -4 into a -4 Tee(guage on top).. on the other side of the guage I have a female -4 coupler to connect to the Tee. The open -4 female on the end is where I use a nitrous plate fitting with my jet in between held securely.

Bottom line is to use a procedure that is repeatable and quick so you can make the appropriate changes to have a good tune. Goodluck!
 
Thanks for the help. Yeah i would not flow the fuel into the motor ( just wasting plugs). Into the fuel cell is a good idea.

So you dont think the car would have any power problems in the burnout or at the line on the converter with pulling timing by locking the dist. w/ the timing light & not using a timing box ?
 
82bird said:
I dont have a timing retard box or a fancy 7al3 MSD, Im just running a 6al box, so i was planning on just locking the distributor in at the desired timing level.

I know how to flow the fuel side, i was just wondering if that would be accurate apposed to using an actual flow tool
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82bird said:
Thanks for the help. Yeah i would not flow the fuel into the motor ( just wasting plugs). Into the fuel cell is a good idea.

So you dont think the car would have any power problems in the burnout or at the line on the converter with pulling timing by locking the dist. w/ the timing light & not using a timing box ?
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you wont waste plugs doing that if you do it for 5-10 seconds, turn it off and adjust. Turn it back on to see where your at and adjust again. Into the fuel cell would be good as long as you can SECURELY hold the jet, witch since you said you know how to flow it, ill assume you have a way to do so. Lastly, my honest opinion would be yes.....10-12 degrees may be to much to pull for the water box and the tree.... i know if i pull that much timing, the fuel/air jets obviously still remain the same, but lack of timing causes the motor to break up real real hard. Just my 0.02 though.
 
Oh... I've pulled 10 degrees at the distributor and had no issues. I think I lost 3+ mph running at 28 degrees instead of 38 degrees at one point. This probably happened because I had my Fuel pressure safety switch set too low and the spray never kicked on so I ran it with no bottle..Other than the ET slip, it ran fine on motor. I couldn't tell the difference in a 116mph run vs. 120mph run. I've also cruised entire weekends(including woodward) at 28 degrees timing.. haha back road thrashes, traffic, idling...

Unless you have a low power engine with a powerglide trans, you won't have any burnout issues.
 
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I have a 6al box right now, i was thinking of buying the MSD 3 stage retard box that have, its 200 bux tho...but then again i'll have 3 different stages of retard options
 
A new Mallory 685 Box is digital and has everything a Digital 6 has but it's cheaper and also has a window switch. I think they are less than $300. I got mine and love it. Sweet piece. RPm limiter, 2 step, single stage retard, window switch, start retard. The funny part is they don't really advertie that it has a single stage nitrous retard, they just mention the window switch. I think they do this so people take a glance at their $400 box that has 3 nitrous retards... wierd. Goodluck!

Put your 6al on the shelf or SELL IT!. :)
 
I am not a fan of MSD. I had about $600 wrapped up into a Digital 6+ box and all msd would do is keep charging me money to "test" it... insane.

Mallory 685 and don't look back :)
 
i have a retard box on my car and pulled as much as 12 out but i think im gonna just lock it down next season.
 
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