Car Won't Start....

Yes, do not fuck with the car before its tuned. I would flat bed it to the tuning shop to avoid further complication.

Most likely the no start now is fludding, your car doesnt konw what to do with all this new stuff, so it ran really fat and fouled out the plugs.

buy some plugs and take it to whereever you choose to get it tuned and like said. pick it up when its done.
 
MxRacerCam said:
the car should still start and run, imo. it may run poorly, but it should still run.
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It ran before the new pump, TB etc, with the S/C on it. But not now.

By any chance did you check a plug to see if you floded it out?
If you did flood it out just pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it. should fire after a second. Then while it's running you can put the fuse back in but you might have to keep a foot on the gas.
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Yea, I checked them, they were wet. I cleaned them and stuck them back in temporarily.


Got to check the three basics - air, fuel, and spark. It is missing one of those, or it would start.
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Yea, I checked those 3. Fuel: I can smell it and the plugs were wet. Spark: I shocked the crap outta my hand when I turned the disty to change the timing and Air: it has a blower on it for Pete's sake lol, jk, but I checked the TB etc. It's getting all of those.

did you get teh colder plugs anyway?
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Not yet. Should I go 1 or 2 steps colder?
 
The tune is not keeping it from running. It should run, something is wrong. Do you have an adjustable regulator on it, or a fp gauge? The injectors and maf are calibrated for each other and the tb isn't going to change enough to even notice in a start situation. Could have a vacuum leak if you just had the TB off and the upper intake was just off when you replaced the injectors. Sounds to me like it's missing a vacuum line or has a leak.

People have run very well just tuning their own s/c cars with an fmu, adjustable regulator and playing with the timing. I couldn't personally part with the money it would cost to tune a pretty mild 302 with a blower only pullied for 10 psi when you know parts are going to change quickly at that point and the tune will be messed up after the first head swap, intake swap, cam swap ect.

Slowfive0 on here never had his car tuned by a pro when it was a 302 with a blower on it and it went 11.0 @ 130 without problems.
 
TRBOBUICK said:
JOE...STOP PHUKING WITH IT. Call me and i will bring the railer and we will take it somewhere.
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I call you around Monday, I need to take it up to NP that day.
The tune is not keeping it from running. It should run, something is wrong. Do you have an adjustable regulator on it, or a fp gauge? The injectors and maf are calibrated for each other and the tb isn't going to change enough to even notice in a start situation. Could have a vacuum leak if you just had the TB off and the upper intake was just off when you replaced the injectors. Sounds to me like it's missing a vacuum line or has a leak.

People have run very well just tuning their own s/c cars with an fmu, adjustable regulator and playing with the timing. I couldn't personally part with the money it would cost to tune a pretty mild 302 with a blower only pullied for 10 psi when you know parts are going to change quickly at that point and the tune will be messed up after the first head swap, intake swap, cam swap ect.

Slowfive0 on here never had his car tuned by a pro when it was a 302 with a blower on it and it went 11.0 @ 130 without problems.
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I don't have a fuel guage or a adj regulator. It's just the stock regulator with the vacuum line. I didn't use the T-Rex pump they gave me or any of the stuff that came with it. I don't even have an FMU. I did check for vacuum lines and what not and couldn't find any leaks or lines I missed.

Do you know the part number for the Motorcraft plugs that are 2 steps colder? Is it ASF52C
 
TwilightBlu92 said:
Do you know the part number for the Motorcraft plugs that are 2 steps colder? Is it ASF52C
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I think 42's are the stock heat range, the lower the number the colder the plug on a motorcraft plug IIRC. If 52's are stock, then 32's would be two steps colder.
 
Is the sample tube for the maf calibrated for 42 lb? If not the tune could be causing the bigger injectors to ope3n up too much, flooding the engine.
 
TRBOBUICK said:
Is the sample tube for the maf calibrated for 42 lb? If not the tune could be causing the bigger injectors to ope3n up too much, flooding the engine.
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yea, it's calibrated for 42's. I don't have a tune in it yet.
 
Just my 2 cents.

I agree, the car should run (idle and drive) fine. I had a very similar combo for many years and never had a chip or the car tuned.

190lph intank pump
Vortech Trex
42lbers (NO FMU)
Pro-m bullet cal'd for 42's
Adjustable FPR set at (39psi without vacuum) * you need to verify your fuel pressure
MSD Digital 6 (w/ NGK FR5's)

And the timing locked out at ~22 degrees (I got too 22 1 degree at a time starting at 18). You lock out the timing by removing the spout connector at near the distributor.

This does kill some low end torque - but it will limit total timing to what you "lock it out too"... I drove my car for 2 years and made at least 20 drag strip passed with it, never a problem. 12.0 at 123mph. Run good plugs like a NGK or Iridium.

Getting it tuned is your best route - but this worked for me.

nitrousrick said:
The tune is not keeping it from running. It should run, something is wrong. Do you have an adjustable regulator on it, or a fp gauge? The injectors and maf are calibrated for each other and the tb isn't going to change enough to even notice in a start situation. Could have a vacuum leak if you just had the TB off and the upper intake was just off when you replaced the injectors. Sounds to me like it's missing a vacuum line or has a leak.

People have run very well just tuning their own s/c cars with an fmu, adjustable regulator and playing with the timing. I couldn't personally part with the money it would cost to tune a pretty mild 302 with a blower only pullied for 10 psi when you know parts are going to change quickly at that point and the tune will be messed up after the first head swap, intake swap, cam swap ect.

Slowfive0 on here never had his car tuned by a pro when it was a 302 with a blower on it and it went 11.0 @ 130 without problems.
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Oops missed that the plugs were fouled out. Get a new set (even stock heat range will be better than fouled plugs).

You will also want to tighten up the gap, I used to run mine at .035 vs. .054 spec.

Also remember that you can perform a "clear flood mode" by doing a WOT start. But remember to let off once she comes to life.

What is the timing set at now?

MystryGuy said:
did you blast them or use a parts cleaner? vac lines correct? vac/pressure side same as stock?
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I'm in the garage now, just got back with new plugs and what not. I'm not sure what the timing is set at right now. I don't have a timing gun so I let the tuner do it last time and I forgot what he set it at. I use to have a timing gun...let somebody borrow it.
 
TwilightBlu92 said:
I'm in the garage now, just got back with new plugs and what not. I'm not sure what the timing is set at right now. I don't have a timing gun so I let the tuner do it last time and I forgot what he set it at. I use to have a timing gun...let somebody borrow it.
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hundo says it will start when you change the plugs.. When we went to 42 lbs and with a matching mass car ran termendously rich on the stock computer even with fuel pressure down to 25lbs it was so rich it filled my garage with fuel smoke..


This was on a tw225r headed 347..


Basicly like the others said its not gunna run right till its tuned.. change the plugs and leave it alone dont start it.. untill its on the dyno and take a set of plugs with you when you get it tune.. it sucks getting on the dyno and having missfires due to shity plugs and you dont have any to swap in. :dontknow:
 
Just take your time with it, I am sure you will get it figured out... and it should rock when you are all done.

TwilightBlu92 said:
I'm in the garage now, just got back with new plugs and what not. I'm not sure what the timing is set at right now. I don't have a timing gun so I let the tuner do it last time and I forgot what he set it at. I use to have a timing gun...let somebody borrow it.
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My friend built a 306 with a vortech, and tuned it himself like Nitrous Rick said. When he took it to the dyno, he only gained 2 hp, he's pretty good with that stuff. It should start without the tune, and like the others said, take it somewhere. Good luck
 
There was a New style PMS forsale in the garage sale section not to long ago with wideband i think... That would be the way to go.. Its prob the best thing besides a standalone.
 
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