Wishbone

Drag race. But I thought the triangulated uppers were supposed to keep the rear straight in the catr.
 
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dmracing1982 said:
Drag race. But I thought the triangulated uppers were supposed to keep the rear straight in the catr.
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I think there is movement in the heim joints...it's not a lot, but there is some movement. Sometimes you can shake the car from side to side when it's parked and feel some of it. I'm not sure how necessary the wishbone is, but some of the fast small tire NMRA cars run them. We put a "track locator" on my car this year, which works sorta like the wishbone except there's just one bar. The car went straight, but it might have without it anyhow.
 
A wish bone on a triangulated 4 link is not necessary, if the car is set up right with the proper instant center the car will be stable at high speeds

Basically what happens is people lower their cars as the car gets lower so does the front suspension mounting points, now put on taller tires like a 28X10.5 or the taller 315 radial the mounting points on the housing move up!
This causes the instant center to move down and foreword, The instant center for those who don't understand is an imaginary point that all suspension forces work through or even simpler the point that the suspension is trying to move the car through.
So if the car is being moved/pushed low and out front the rear is going to dance at high speed, think of a caster on the front of a shopping cart being pushed real fast, the attachment point of the caster is out front and the wheel travels behind and wiggles back and forth...

Is a wish bone needed NO in the hand of a smart chassis tuner it can be used as a traction device which is totally not what it is intended for!
 
Team Z Motorsports said:
A wish bone on a triangulated 4 link is not necessary, if the car is set up right with the proper instant center the car will be stable at high speeds

Basically what happens is people lower their cars as the car gets lower so does the front suspension mounting points, now put on taller tires like a 28X10.5 or the taller 315 radial the mounting points on the housing move up!
This causes the instant center to move down and foreword, The instant center for those who don't understand is an imaginary point that all suspension forces work through or even simpler the point that the suspension is trying to move the car through.
So if the car is being moved/pushed low and out front the rear is going to dance at high speed, think of a caster on the front of a shopping cart being pushed real fast, the attachment point of the caster is out front and the wheel travels behind and wiggles back and forth...

Is a wish bone needed NO in the hand of a smart chassis tuner it can be used as a traction device which is totally not what it is intended for!
Click to expand...


Thx for posting Dave. It's not often people can learn anything from reading this board.

Obviously the wish bone doesn't do anything to correct suspension geometry, right? So are you saying that if the car is right in the first place, there is no need for one?
 
Team Z Motorsports said:
A wish bone on a triangulated 4 link is not necessary, if the car is set up right with the proper instant center the car will be stable at high speeds

Basically what happens is people lower their cars as the car gets lower so does the front suspension mounting points, now put on taller tires like a 28X10.5 or the taller 315 radial the mounting points on the housing move up!
This causes the instant center to move down and foreword, The instant center for those who don't understand is an imaginary point that all suspension forces work through or even simpler the point that the suspension is trying to move the car through.
So if the car is being moved/pushed low and out front the rear is going to dance at high speed, think of a caster on the front of a shopping cart being pushed real fast, the attachment point of the caster is out front and the wheel travels behind and wiggles back and forth...

Is a wish bone needed NO in the hand of a smart chassis tuner it can be used as a traction device which is totally not what it is intended for!
Click to expand...


Thx for posting Dave. It's not often people can learn anything from reading this board.

So the wish bone doesn't do anything to correct suspension geometry, right? So are you saying that if the car is right in the first place, there is no need for one?
 
Thats what I wanted to find out. So in reality it should not be needed. I would just rather spend my money on needed things rather than things I dont need.
 
Fryguy302 said:
Thx for posting Dave. It's not often people can learn anything from reading this board.

So the wish bone doesn't do anything to correct suspension geometry, right? So are you saying that if the car is right in the first place, there is no need for one?
Click to expand...

Exactly if the geometry is done right there is not a need, but on a 7 second car where there may be a compromise in suspension because it's to low and you don't have enough adjust ability, you could use one but that would be like using a band aid on a broken arm!
 
Team Z Motorsports said:
once the lower bar is parallel to the ground your moving into that territory, it should be slightly up in front!
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That is a useful piece of information.

So what your saying is that even though the Mustang 4 link is a bastard short long arm arrangement that typica four link behaviors apply.

Is there anyway to combat this without muking up the IC and CG ?
 
Sean said:
That is a useful piece of information.

So what your saying is that even though the Mustang 4 link is a bastard short long arm arrangement that typica four link behaviors apply.

Is there anyway to combat this without muking up the IC and CG ?
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you relocate the lower arms. I had this problem on my Trans Am, the bars were below parallel and it would always blow the tires off, once dropping the rear of the control arms, itd squat
 
cjmatt said:
you relocate the lower arms. I had this problem on my Trans Am, the bars were below parallel and it would always blow the tires off, once dropping the rear of the control arms, itd squat
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on the Fbodys I have been involved with we have been doing that for some time.Although I have noticed once the arms are parellel the benefits of moving them down seem to negate quickly.

I have heard and been told by numerous people that you want some squat angle in the fox rear suspension. Not really a chassis I know as well as te Fbody and I am not a chassis guy in that sense.

Just trying to learn like everyone else.
 
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Team Z Motorsports said:
didn't want to start a pissing match, just not worth it....It's kind of like the double ARB....never seen one on a pro mod or heavy 4 link car like an outlaw 10.5
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Don't you sell a double arb?

I went to your site I didn't see one, I kind of wondered why anyone would need a double.
 
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Dave, using this wishbone purely for its traction attributes, is the goal to lock in instant center ?

please educate me :)
 
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