What size turbo?

fiveohcrazy

Club Member
I'm building a 87 turbo mustang...

Man o war 4 bolt billet mains.
347 c.i.d.
Forged internals,
SRP flat tops,
AFR 205 72cc heads
Bennett cam
TH400 trans



PTK Drag Radial T6 Hotside

Trying to figure out what turbo to use.
Car is gonna be a full interior , team z race suspension, street/track driven car.
Goal is to make 1000+ Hp but still have it spool rather quickly.


Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
If you want to make big power and still spool quickly I would stay T4 Based and go with a GT4202r or Precision 7675. You can make plenty of power on a T4 turbo, its much easier to find a spot for it in the engine bay. Just with the T4, you will want a bigger exhaust housing to keep BP down
 
I'm building a 87 turbo mustang...

Man o war 4 bolt billet mains.
347 c.i.d.
Forged internals,
SRP flat tops,
AFR 205 72cc heads
Bennett cam
TH400 trans



PTK Drag Radial T6 Hotside

Trying to figure out what turbo to use.
Car is gonna be a full interior , team z race suspension, street/track driven car.
Goal is to make 1000+ Hp but still have it spool rather quickly.


Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Have you already built the motor? What C/R are you at or shooting for? Race fuel? Pump gas? E85? I recommend the E85 Route, and with the qualities that E85 brings you can run a higher Compression ratio which will help with spooling the turbo, and give it more responsiveness on the street. Building 8.5:1 motors is a thing of the past. I would imagine with flat tops you are wanting a higher CR anyways, but just wanted to pass on that info..
 
T6 and spooling quickly dont belong in the same sentence. What size primaries on your headers? What size is the crossover. The smaller these 2 are, they faster your are going to spool. 1 5/8" headers are capable of 200hp per cylinder. 2.5" crossover is more then big enough to support in upwards of 1000+hp. Alot of these T6 kits are 3" Crossovers, which is wayyyy to big for a street car. If this is gonna be mainly a street car, I would rethink the hotside. It will be a lazy bitch on the street and then all of a sudden be too much IMO, which is the reasoning behind going with the higher compression.
 
I had a 7675 t4 flange and loved it. Thought I wanted more power so I put a pt88 t4 flange and absolutely hated it! Such a slug on my street car. Switched back over to a billet wheel 7675 and wont go any bigger. And my car runs a decent # and 60' good too.
 
Not sure if smooth had any problems with his Man O war block in that car, but a guy I know with that has issues with cooling on the street. Another buddy with the same exact setup as him but an R block has no issues at all
 
Not sure if smooth had any problems with his Man O war block in that car, but a guy I know with that has issues with cooling on the street. Another buddy with the same exact setup as him but an R block has no issues at all

When I first bought the car I had no problems, after I sold it to dumb and dumber then bought it back the car ran hot on the street
 
My gt4788 lit instantly. 363 with 10-1.

Made your requested numbers on 93oct.

Wasn't very fun on the street. Unless you want to spin endlessly on drag radials.

Killing power and playing with the ams1000 made it fun.

Had 5 setups saved in laptop.
 
My gt4788 lit instantly. 363 with 10-1.

Made your requested numbers on 93oct.

Wasn't very fun on the street. Unless you want to spin endlessly on drag radials.

Killing power and playing with the ams1000 made it fun.

Had 5 setups saved in laptop.

I was going to say something almost exactly like this.

The 4788 will light instantly, no matter if it's t4 or t6, as long as you have the correct converter in the car. Also, once you drive one of these cars around on the street, you will realize they should really be used for cruising the street, but racing on the track. Spool time isn't really the issue when you have this much power.....you will be able to light the tires at highway speeds.

I've been told the 83mm Bulleye unit will actually make more than a 4788, but I was damn happy with the 4788.
 
The turbo really depends on more than just the HP goals...meaning if you decide to class race it there may be restrictions, etc. I disagree with some saying an 88mm (T6) and quick spooling don't go together....this is not true. Your tune will have a lot to do with how long it takes to build boost.

Anthony is correct though with the street usage of something like this. It will take some time and patience to make it fun to drive on the street.

Also, notice that Anthony seemed to have no issues spooling..........FWIW, my 363inch SBF with a TH400 and an 88mm (T6 .96 A/R)will make ~12 psi in 1.1sec, and if given about 2 seconds it will make 17+psi. On the street with a 3.55 gear it was a nightmare. Changed to a 3.08 and it is way more fun. Oh and I only run 6 psi or so on the street. Car goes 5.20's on 17 psi @ 3200 lbs...definately has more in it, just don't have the desire to update the cage to a 25.5.
 
Basically im building the car to cruise with the family to car shows and grudge race every now and then at the track. The GT4788 seems like a great turbo but Bullseye Power has some real nice units out there for decent prices. The BatmoWheel may help with spooling.

Anyone running a Bullseye?
 
I was going to say something almost exactly like this.

The 4788 will light instantly, no matter if it's t4 or t6, as long as you have the correct converter in the car. Also, once you drive one of these cars around on the street, you will realize they should really be used for cruising the street, but racing on the track. Spool time isn't really the issue when you have this much power.....you will be able to light the tires at highway speeds.

I've been told the 83mm Bulleye unit will actually make more than a 4788, but I was damn happy with the 4788.

Great info!
 
Mine had a 3.27 gear. And a proX tci converter. Built for the car by Jeff reed@tci.

I ran 4lbs on the street
 
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