Wet sanding procedures?

SuperStang90

SuperStang90

Club Member
Seeing there is alot of you body guys on here figured id try to get some ideas from ya'll. As some of you know I just painted my truck, and I need to wet sand and wheel it out(some bugs,dirt, and peel in it). What is a good grit of sandpaper to start out wetsanding, and what to I want to be the final grit before I wheel it out. There is only 3 coats of clear on it so im not sure how aggressive I can get with it. Or could it be possible to get rid of most of the imperfections by just wheeling it? Any tips, and or suggestions on how to do it would be kindly appreciated
 
3 coats of clear is plenty. First, what color is the truck? How flat do you want it? What is the trucks use?

For something you want people to drool over, something that will be under bright halogens....start with 1000, then move to 1500, then 2000 then rub it out. They make 3000 grit too but I have never needed to use it. 2000 grit and the right compound does the trick. Keep medium, even pressure as you wet sand. Feel free to use mild soap in the water to keep the paper lubed. Also, feel free to wipe and blow dry the truck off after you are done. Look over every inch of it and level larger dust nibs, orange peel, paint drips (if any) and bugs. Do it over and over, til you are satisfied. Take your time.

As far as compounds you will get 10 people and 10 different opinions. I mostly use 3M products to cut the wet sanding scratches. I love how Meguiar's Swirl Remover #9 works. It takes all the imperfections such as marring, swirl marks hazing etc...out of the paint. I painted a hood black for a friend, we had 1000 watt halogens and it was perfect after using the #9. Looked like a dark peice of glass. Follow that up by a nice glaze or their #26 wax, or their NXT wax and you'll be all set to go.

IF it's just a truck to drive around town, beater etc...just hit it with 2000 and rub it and be done.
 
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Good info, this is probally a dumb question, but do you want the sand paper saturated with water the whole time. or do you spray water on the car and sand. I'm many steps away from finishing my project, but I know i'll end up asking the question sometime or another.
 
You want the paper/paint to be constantly lubed. What I do is start by throwing water up the aread to be sanded, then dunk the paper in the water and start moving. The soap that I mentioed adding helps keep it lubed. You don't want it to dry up because then the paint catches the paper and it just screws your motion up or it can give you uneven surfaces.

There are other ways of wet sanding too. They make a Hook-It system that's very pricey. You dry sand it using a DA sander. It's much faster. I wouldn't recommend this if you are a 1 or 2 time per year painter. IF you do it as your job...I highly recommend it since you'll save tons of time and get more jobs in the door.
 
Thanks for the info, Its just a daily driver, but I just want to smooth it out a bit, doesnt have to be glass smooth show car quality, but I do want it to look good.
 
SVT32VDOHC said:
You want the paper/paint to be constantly lubed. What I do is start by throwing water up the aread to be sanded, then dunk the paper in the water and start moving. The soap that I mentioed adding helps keep it lubed. You don't want it to dry up because then the paint catches the paper and it just screws your motion up or it can give you uneven surfaces.

There are other ways of wet sanding too. They make a Hook-It system that's very pricey. You dry sand it using a DA sander. It's much faster. I wouldn't recommend this if you are a 1 or 2 time per year painter. IF you do it as your job...I highly recommend it since you'll save tons of time and get more jobs in the door.
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The hook it's work well. they now offer a 1500 wet for a DA that is amazing! Depending on how bad your finish is to start with will depend on how aggressive you need/want to go. if you just want a quick once over, i'de just take 2000 with a block and go over it and wheel it out. i have 3000wet hook it 2's that i like to go over with just to make it easier to wheel out. however they're really expensive (something like $200 or more for a box of 30 i think)

SVT32vDOHC pretty much hit the money with his info though. i personally really like wizards products (finish cut and turbo cut) but again it's all in preference and what you're used to using!
 
wow this is great info, this paint forum is really a winner!!! im guessing this will be the hot spot for motown...lol
 
SS4Matt said:
The hook it's work well. they now offer a 1500 wet for a DA that is amazing! Depending on how bad your finish is to start with will depend on how aggressive you need/want to go. if you just want a quick once over, i'de just take 2000 with a block and go over it and wheel it out. i have 3000wet hook it 2's that i like to go over with just to make it easier to wheel out. however they're really expensive (something like $200 or more for a box of 30 i think)

SVT32vDOHC pretty much hit the money with his info though. i personally really like wizards products (finish cut and turbo cut) but again it's all in preference and what you're used to using!
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I would LOVE to use this. About 2-5 years ago I was involved with more projects maybe I should have bought a Hook-It system back then. I would also really like to try 3000 paper. I think that would be best for factory finishes/factory paint that say...caught a slight button from jeans, or a purse rubbed against in a parklot etc...sometimes 2000 on factory paint is too much. That's why I keep used peices around.

BTW...I love Wizards as well. I didn't mention it because not everyone carries it and half the time nobody knows what I'm talking about. The Turbo and the Finish Cut's work well and smell excellent. When I'm rubbing a car with Wizards and people come in the back room...they are like "Dude what is that???" It's crystalline-silica free so it's safer for your lungs. I also like their Detailer Spray in the pink bottle and their Black Renew is the BEST black renew I have used.
 
Im not a huge fan of using the hook it pads myself for the final wet sanding. There always seems to be some swirling marks from the paper on the da that are just hard as hell to get out. I preffer the 1500 by hand then 2000 If needed. If you finish with 2000 you can take wizards finish cut with a buffing pad and bring it right up to a polish all in one step. Its a little bit more work this way but it saves time and materials and i think really brings the best finish :wink:
 

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^^I haven't had luck getting 2000 out with Wizards finish cut. The Turbo cut got them out though.

I still like the product though. It's great for quick wheel jobs. I did my girl's white car the other day QUICK. I did it outside in the shade just to cut some fading/grime and get it to shine. It worked wonders and left no swirls.
 
Also make sure you use a foam pad or block and not just your fingers behind the sand paper to help prevents waves from the uneven pressure from your fingers
 
cjmatt said:
Also make sure you use a foam pad or block and not just your fingers behind the sand paper to help prevents waves from the uneven pressure from your fingers
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Good point, I left that part out. Pretty important especially when you are doing multi-step. 1000, 1500, 2000.
 
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