Undercoat Car?

91trunk said:
We have a place out here in A2 that does it, but if you can get over to Canada, they have some wax oil stuff that is suppose to be great. I don't know if it's still the same.
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Are you referring Corrosion Free? I stumbled across them sometime ago when researching Krown corrosion. According to Corrosion Free's website they have a place in Ann Arbor that does it. After watching the video it seems almost to good to be true. But the reviews I have read online all been good for the most part

Here's the website: http://www.corrosionfree.com/index.htm
 
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Henderson bros in Midland michigan. They do a great job and use a waxy grease stuff. $370 to do my crew cab.
 
Pwraddr said:
Then the entire underneath looks like shit IMO.
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On a truck or car that I plan on keeping for a long time, then I deal with the looks.

It is also messy to work around the wax based undercoating. I had to change the power window motor in my truck. I had it undercoated with the Texaco stuff 15 years ago. It was still covered inside the door with the undercoating. I had to clean undercoating off my tools and hands during the job, but there is no rust inside the door.

On the other hand on my Mach 1, I did not have it undercoated. The trade-off is that I don't drive it after November or before May every year...
 
topgun said:
So you prefer the rust covered undercarriage over blacked out and protected from rust?
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Do me a favor and go back and read my posts, then answer your own question. You can also read my post below :)
 
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tbear1 said:
On a truck or car that I plan on keeping for a long time, then I deal with the looks.

It is also messy to work around the wax based undercoating. I had to change the power window motor in my truck. I had it undercoated with the Texaco stuff 15 years ago. It was still covered inside the door with the undercoating. I had to clean undercoating off my tools and hands during the job, but there is no rust inside the door.

On the other hand on my Mach 1, I did not have it undercoated. The trade-off is that I don't drive it after November or before May every year...
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Yea, like life, full of trade offs. When I worked on VW/Audi they use the wax stuff and you are right, it gets on all your tools. The thing I like about the wax is that it looks nicer than gobs of black shit you need to scrape off to get on a socket. Again, just my opinion. This is why I was attracted to the Krown method, for as little as I will drive it in the winter I think it fits for me, not everyone as some thinks it looks good.

I remember my Dad bought a 1976 F250 new and had that Ziebarted....what a phucking mess! That truck was still rusted out by the time the tigers won the World Series....again, things have changed, mainly on the OEM side with better prevention and I'm sure a little on the Ziebarted side to be fair.

Good luck to all who and whatever you choose!
 
Lots of good information in this thread- thanks all! I'm going to research the wax stuff you all are talking about... I've never heard of it before.
 
68gtscode said:
Lots of good information in this thread- thanks all! I'm going to research the wax stuff you all are talking about... I've never heard of it before.
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Also I didn't see anyone mention the wax stuff is available in spray bombs as well. Two brand names that I know of are Fluid Film and Boeshield T-9. I have used both and they work very well.
 
DeFormula said:
Also I didn't see anyone mention the wax stuff is available in spray bombs as well. Two brand names that I know of are Fluid Film and Boeshield T-9. I have used both and they work very well.
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Funny, they just talked about T9 on My Classsic Car.
 
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