turbocharging, whats needed?

stanggt

Forum Member
Going to build a 351w for turbocharging, what internals should I use and what turbo to make 600-700 hp? Turbonetics Hurricane? Want to build a dependable engine, more street car than enything but want to go to the track a little also.
 
I know there are differing opinions on this, but what's the point of a 700 HP street car? You won't be able to hook it, much less use it.

That said and strictly speaking about the engine and trans, there is nothing very different from a 700 HP street car motor and a 700 HP drag motor. In fact, I'll argue that you want to build the street motor as good or better, at least at the track you might know somebody that will help you trailer the car home when you blow a hole in a piston.

Aside from that mini-editorial, DSD makes the right points.
 
I know there are differing opinions on this, but what's the point of a 700 HP street car? You won't be able to hook it, much less use it.

That said and strictly speaking about the engine and trans, there is nothing very different from a 700 HP street car motor and a 700 HP drag motor. In fact, I'll argue that you want to build the street motor as good or better, at least at the track you might know somebody that will help you trailer the car home when you blow a hole in a piston.

Aside from that mini-editorial, DSD makes the right points.
There should be no difference in build quality regardless of the engines sole purpose. The difference between a 700hp street motor and a 700 race motor is usually the tune. Race motors are tuned far more aggressively than a street motor. Thus, shortening the life span. A street motor tends to have a fairly safe/conservative tune.

On the topic of hooking. Granted, 90% of that comes down to the suspension/driver. The one of the benefits a turbo car has is lag. It plays the role of traction control. As long as the power doesn't come in all at once breaking the tires loose. There are also ways around that. Like, boost by gear. So, say you want to leave at 5psi, then have first limited to 7psi, second 13psi, third full boost. That helps keep power down, and grip high. Remember, sometimes less is more.
 
I know there are differing opinions on this, but what's the point of a 700 HP street car? You won't be able to hook it, much less use it.

That said and strictly speaking about the engine and trans, there is nothing very different from a 700 HP street car motor and a 700 HP drag motor. In fact, I'll argue that you want to build the street motor as good or better, at least at the track you might know somebody that will help you trailer the car home when you blow a hole in a piston.

Aside from that mini-editorial, DSD makes the right points.

the hell you cant lol:hugegrin:
 
Going to build a 351w for turbocharging, what internals should I use and what turbo to make 600-700 hp? Turbonetics Hurricane? Want to build a dependable engine, more street car than enything but want to go to the track a little also.

very easy

dart block
pick your brand of forged crank and stroke
call diamond and tell them your going to be boosted, they will set you up with a set of rings and pins too.
pick your set of heads, i chose high ports based off discussions with my builder hoppertech and jason lee.
converted victor jr for efi
contact any of sponsors for parts and labor.

build it for 2x the power you want to make, then you only do it once and your covered.........ask me how i know. its worth it now to wait and save o do it once, than to do it all over again

join turbomustangs.com too. WAY more info there.
 
very easy

dart block
pick your brand of forged crank and stroke
call diamond and tell them your going to be boosted, they will set you up with a set of rings and pins too.
pick your set of heads, i chose high ports based off discussions with my builder hoppertech and jason lee.
converted victor jr for efi
contact any of sponsors for parts and labor.

build it for 2x the power you want to make, then you only do it once and your covered.........ask me how i know. its worth it now to wait and save o do it once, than to do it all over again

join turbomustangs.com too. WAY more info there.


Anthony's advice is sound, and there is nothing wrong with it....but I don't really agree with building cars that way. He is correct that if you don't do it this way, you will eventually have to do everything twice, because you will always want to go faster. However, most of the time I see people trying to build a car with the best stuff so that they "don't have to do it twice", the car never gets done. Unless you start build a pro mod car from the start, there will always be a way to improve the car.

For a 700hp street car, IMO it could be done MUCH cheaper using a stock 351W block and some cheap Eagle 4340 stuff inside it. Even the stock crank would work. I would keep the engine small, so that you could use a small turbo effectively. Maybe a GT42-76 or a GTS76. Either one would spool plenty fast with 357cid, and you could make that power even keeping the RPM in the low 6000's and it would live forever. You could use almost any aluminum aftermarket cylinder head. 700hp would be extremely easy.
 
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i just suggested build for double what you think you want. then your goals, and slightly more are covered. $500 eagle crank, $400 eagle rods, $800 diamond pistons. id rather put them in a aftermarket block and have a bigger cushion, than with a factory block. i got my dart block for $1800 picked up. the SHP is even cheaper and still WAY better than a factory block in my opinion. and at 1200-1500 over a free to $300 factory block with $500 worth of machining.... and its still a stock block? ton of people have and do go very fast with a factory block.....then they want to go faster or oil pressure drops to 5psi and its time to start over.

fryguy has very good points
 
i just suggested build for double what you think you want. then your goals, and slightly more are covered. $500 eagle crank, $400 eagle rods, $800 diamond pistons. id rather put them in a aftermarket block and have a bigger cushion, than with a factory block. i got my dart block for $1800 picked up. the SHP is even cheaper and still WAY better than a factory block in my opinion. and at 1200-1500 over a free to $300 factory block with $500 worth of machining.... and its still a stock block? ton of people have and do go very fast with a factory block.....then they want to go faster or oil pressure drops to 5psi and its time to start over.

fryguy has very good points
This man knows what to do. I don't know how many times Ive told people to save up and buy good parts the first time. Just to have them buy cheap stuff and have to re do it.

On a street motor, overbuilding is just insurance. An over built motor can/will last longer and give you peace of mind knowing its not going to grenade randomly.
 
On a street motor, overbuilding is just insurance. An over built motor can/will last longer and give you peace of mind knowing its not going to grenade randomly.

Um..what? Do you know this because of all the engines you've made 700hp with and broke? :lol:

What Anthony said is correct. If you have the budget, get a race block. But for 700hp you do NOT need one. 700 is around a mid 9 @3200#. A turbo has a smooth hit, unlike NOS, and it doesn't stress the crank snout like a blower. A stock 351W block WILL be reliable at this power level, especially since you don't need but 6000rpm to get it done.

Everyone has a budget...some are big and some are small, but everyone has one. I believe in buying what it takes to get the job done.
 
This man knows what to do. I don't know how many times Ive told people to save up and buy good parts the first time. Just to have them buy cheap stuff and have to re do it.

On a street motor, overbuilding is just insurance. An over built motor can/will last longer and give you peace of mind knowing its not going to grenade randomly.

i am only speaking from experience, couple split 302's and 69 windsor block later, im at a dart.

fryguy is completely right too, people often build over their budget and never finish.
 
i am only speaking from experience, couple split 302's and 69 windsor block later, im at a dart.

fryguy is completely right too, people often build over their budget and never finish.

Did you really split a 69 windsor? I don't hear of that too often. Did it rattle?
 
Um..what? Do you know this because of all the engines you've made 700hp with and broke? :lol:

What Anthony said is correct. If you have the budget, get a race block. But for 700hp you do NOT need one. 700 is around a mid 9 @3200#. A turbo has a smooth hit, unlike NOS, and it doesn't stress the crank snout like a blower. A stock 351W block WILL be reliable at this power level, especially since you don't need but 6000rpm to get it done.

Everyone has a budget...some are big and some are small, but everyone has one. I believe in buying what it takes to get the job done.
I simply said it based on other projects Ive built, and others have built. Its better in the long run to save and over build, than to try to work on a small budget. That's all Im saying.

That is why, I'm not throwing in a stock Modular into my car, and hope it holds. I don't want to do it twice, so I'm saving to get an all new rotating assembly, brand new turbos, new gates, etc. I want to do it once, and have the car sit longer.
 
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I simply said it based on other projects Ive built, and others have built. Its better in the long run to save and over build, than to try to work on a small budget. That's all Im saying.

That is why, I'm not throwing in a stock Modular into my car, and hope it holds. I don't want to do it twice, so I'm saving to get an all new rotating assembly, brand new turbos, new gates, etc. I want to do it once, and have the car sit longer.

Stock Modular motors have made well over 800 to the tire...
 
Stock Modular motors have made well over 800 to the tire...

Cobra and gt500 motors ? Haven't heard of to many living out there for long aside from the cobra shorts and thats really pushing it. but the depends on whose 800hp your measuring.
 
Cobra and gt500 motors ? Haven't heard of to many living out there for long aside from the cobra shorts and thats really pushing it. but the depends on whose 800hp your measuring.

Ford GT is a modular motor... :hugegrin:
 
Anthony's advice is sound, and there is nothing wrong with it....but I don't really agree with building cars that way. He is correct that if you don't do it this way, you will eventually have to do everything twice, because you will always want to go faster. However, most of the time I see people trying to build a car with the best stuff so that they "don't have to do it twice", the car never gets done. Unless you start build a pro mod car from the start, there will always be a way to improve the car.

For a 700hp street car, IMO it could be done MUCH cheaper using a stock 351W block and some cheap Eagle 4340 stuff inside it. Even the stock crank would work. I would keep the engine small, so that you could use a small turbo effectively. Maybe a GT42-76 or a GTS76. Either one would spool plenty fast with 357cid, and you could make that power even keeping the RPM in the low 6000's and it would live forever. You could use almost any aluminum aftermarket cylinder head. 700hp would be extremely easy.

If it was me I'd build a good lower end with a good block and skimp on the heads. Put the budget where the stoutess need for the build would go. That siad. Guys have been pretty fast with junk so it is doable. 700hp I would want a good block and a decent rotator. Most any aftermarket head will make that much power. I'd most likely jump up on the turbo a size. a gt4276 would be a bit stuffy at 700hp due to its small hotside. But it sure will spool up quick.

good solid advice man.
 
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