Trans help

90_Notch

90_Notch

Forum Member
I have this car and the O/D light starts blinking and it shifts hard like it has a shift kit. Once the codes are cleared it shifts fine. I've been reading everything from it's internal to external, and a cost of 1500 to 3200 dollars. I just turned in my lease today and cannot afford this thing to go down.
Anyone know of any good trans shops that will do me right and not fuck me over. I need the truth not someone looking to make a buck. At 3200 dollars I'd be better off buying something else and beating this fucker with a sledge hammer. I've read alot by googling it andy one actually have this problem and what you have to do to fix it? I have 2 small kids that ride in this thing one 4 and one 1 years old plus the 26 miles one way to work.
1996 mercury sable ls 24V, error code is
1st error P0741 TCC system performance/stuck
2nd error P0155 Heater fault bank 2 sensor 1
 
90_Notch said:
I have this car and the O/D light starts blinking and it shifts hard like it has a shift kit. Once the codes are cleared it shifts fine. I've been reading everything from it's internal to external, and a cost of 1500 to 3200 dollars. I just turned in my lease today and cannot afford this thing to go down.
Anyone know of any good trans shops that will do me right and not fuck me over. I need the truth not someone looking to make a buck. At 3200 dollars I'd be better off buying something else and beating this fucker with a sledge hammer. I've read alot by googling it andy one actually have this problem and what you have to do to fix it? I have 2 small kids that ride in this thing one 4 and one 1 years old plus the 26 miles one way to work.
1996 mercury sable ls 24V, error code is
1st error P0741 TCC system performance/stuck
2nd error P0155 Heater fault bank 2 sensor 1
Click to expand...
sencer in the trans might be bad.my 97 explorer did the same thing.
 
90_Notch said:
inside as have to take it apart?
Click to expand...
youll have to get a book and look it up.not sure on where its at on that trans.go to google and type in 1996 mercury sable trans problems and you should find all the info there:icon_mrgr
 
90_notch....code P0741 is a trouble code that usually appears when the torque converter does not lock up properly. This can be confirmed by either watching you tach(if its really bad) or with a scan tool. once the computer demands the apply of the tcc(torque converter clutch) your engine rpm should not increase more than lets say 100rpm.(some vehicles are 2-20 rpm and some are 50-100) this is when you accelerate slightly (10-15% throttle opening) the converter clutch apply in your vehicle is pwm(pulse with modulated) which allows a little slippage on apply to eliminate a jerk feeling. The harsh shift you feel after the code is set is because the computer puts the transmission into a limp in mode (Chrysler term). What happens is the computer has detected a error in the transmission operating system and commanded high line pressure, thus the reason for the hard shift. It also usually inhibits 4th gear and tcc apply. This code is common to set after the vehicle is hot, and driving at highway speeds for 5-10 miles. Rarely does a bad pwm solenoid set this code, but it is possible. Bad news is, just changing the sensor is pricey(have to lower the carriage to get to it. I would estimate a 1996 with over 100k miles and no fluid & filter changes ever.....time for a overhaul @ 15-2000bucks.
The other code is a bad O2 sensor.
Could the two be related, possibly, but with out looking at a schematic diagram to see if the O2 sensor and power to the transmission are shared on the same circuit.
O2 sensor is 40-75 bucks and not very hard to change. have it inspected first to make sure its connected properly and the wires and connector are in good shape.-rich
 
Detroit Gearbox said:
90_notch....code P0741 is a trouble code that usually appears when the torque converter does not lock up properly. This can be confirmed by either watching you tach(if its really bad) or with a scan tool. once the computer demands the apply of the tcc(torque converter clutch) your engine rpm should not increase more than lets say 100rpm.(some vehicles are 2-20 rpm and some are 50-100) this is when you accelerate slightly (10-15% throttle opening) the converter clutch apply in your vehicle is pwm(pulse with modulated) which allows a little slippage on apply to eliminate a jerk feeling. The harsh shift you feel after the code is set is because the computer puts the transmission into a limp in mode (Chrysler term). What happens is the computer has detected a error in the transmission operating system and commanded high line pressure, thus the reason for the hard shift. It also usually inhibits 4th gear and tcc apply. This code is common to set after the vehicle is hot, and driving at highway speeds for 5-10 miles. Rarely does a bad pwm solenoid set this code, but it is possible. Bad news is, just changing the sensor is pricey(have to lower the carriage to get to it. I would estimate a 1996 with over 100k miles and no fluid & filter changes ever.....time for a overhaul @ 15-2000bucks.
The other code is a bad O2 sensor.
Could the two be related, possibly, but with out looking at a schematic diagram to see if the O2 sensor and power to the transmission are shared on the same circuit.
O2 sensor is 40-75 bucks and not very hard to change. have it inspected first to make sure its connected properly and the wires and connector are in good shape.-rich
Click to expand...


Lovely....Well I have O/D I can tell when the light is blinking I hit the O/D button and the rpms go up. Hope fully it lasts so I can get my money out of it. I can't justifing paying 1500-2000 to get it fixed i just bought the car couple of weeks ago and started driving it yesterday. I guess this is why I always bought new cars. Like I said hopefully i can get 3 or 4 months out of it. The trans was suppost to be new...so i dunno
 
look up accurate transmission in belleville, they're boh racers in the ihra and have never done me wrong.
 
I have exactly the same thing happen occasionally on my '97 F350 diesel.
Always happens upon startup. The o/d light blinks and the trans slams
gears, and I mean hard. It won't reset unless I disconnect the batteries
and reset the 'puter. The biggest bitch is resetting the clock and stereo
presets lol. It's probably just a sensor.
 
90_Notch said:
Lovely....Well I have O/D I can tell when the light is blinking I hit the O/D button and the rpms go up. Hope fully it lasts so I can get my money out of it. I can't justifing paying 1500-2000 to get it fixed i just bought the car couple of weeks ago and started driving it yesterday. I guess this is why I always bought new cars. Like I said hopefully i can get 3 or 4 months out of it. The trans was suppost to be new...so i dunno
Click to expand...
i drove my 97 explorer everywhere for 6-7 months and didnt hurt nothing at all.
 
don't drive it..

You'll burn up the o\d clutch pack\ third high.. Apply solenoid prob crapped out.. low line apply pressure with make it slip.. freeway drive it and it will prob feel mush\slip very lil early on and progressivly get worse..

I know one guy who does all my tans stuff.. he's good and fair priced..

734-231-6356 His names Kerry tell him Derrick Mayville told ya to call
 
90_Notch said:
hopefully i can get 3 or 4 months out of it.
Click to expand...


It should be OK to drive, but I would suggest driving the vehicle in "D" instead of "OD, and not taking any long drives.
All the heat in a transmission comes from the torque converter. When the TCC clutch is demanded on, the converter now makes a 1 to 1 connection with the engine, thus no longer shearing fluid and creating heat. In your vehicle, if the torque converter clutch is not applying or holding, temperature of the trans fluid will increase. The stall speed of the converter in your vehicle is 2000 or greater. By driving the vehicle in "D", it will raise your engine RPM. This will bring the RPM the the engine closer to or preferably above the stall speed, and in turn not overheating the fluid.
A long trip in OD on the freeway will increase the fluid temp greatly, and most likely fail the front seal of the trans (in contact with the overheated torque converter)
In my opinion, it will not harm the 3rd clutch or 4th gear "band" as suggested.

On another note, if your vehicle sets the TCC code on startup as
Foolsgold80z does, then you very likely have just a bad TCC solenoid, If it only comes on after driving for a while, then your problem is most likely internal, either bad converter, worn passage in the valve body or some form of internal leak-rich
 
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