Rear frame work is done, I finished up the last pieces needed to get back some section width just in front of the tire. All boxed in now and welded up... painted after the pic..
rear LCA's modified to fit.
LCA's were boxed, and then I cut the "lip" off the outboard side to pick up clearance. Pic is a little blurry, but you can see the left side is missing the lip at the bottom of the control arm. Right after I put down the first two welds, I ran out of shielding gas on my TIG, lukily the MIG had a pretty full tank..
All in all, about 4 hours work on Sunday and last night. Tonight, I plan to get the wheel bolts out, the wheel studs and jam nuts into the rear axle, and start hanging the brakes and shocks. So, rear axle cover is coming off to pull the axle shafts out 2", and then put them right back in. Luckily, the new stids and jam nuts are on the shelf already, which is good because I still don't know if I am going to be running my ET Streets on wheels with a 5x5" bolt pattern or a 5x4.75...
Rear brake rotor calipers and pads are on the car. I started to mockup the rubber hose routing for my back brakes. I want to eliminate the center hose and run a rubber hose off each side of the frame. This should allow me to remove the axle without cracking the brake hydraulics open, just unbolt the calipers from the backing plates and away we go.
I changed out the 3" long Moser lug bolts with screw in studs. This way I can convert from 5x4.75" to 5x5" with relative ease. The bolts were too long to be able to thread out the back of the axle flange.
I also drilled the rotors for 5 x 4.75" bolt pattern so I should now have full flexibility to either bolt pattern on the back. Still working through options to allow this on the front. The best one is to use 1LE Camaro rotors and Caprice rotors as needed, but I'd still like to see if I can drill the front rotors for both patterns. It does not look likely as any off the shelf replacement rotor for a Caprice (or Camaro) will have pressed in wheel studs, and those holes are larger than the tap thread I would need for a 1/2" stud (what I have in the back).
Back rotors.
Other stuff. I started to dink around with making a new trans crossmember, but then realized I needed to mockup the exhaust. That snowballed into wanting more clearance between the ride side primaries and the frame. I ended up pulling the header and putting pie cuts in the primary near the head flange, and tweaking pulling in the primaries a bit. Worked out really well, but I killed a coupler on my TIG cooling unit in the process.. DOH.. parts on order. Pics of the header later.
Before I get back to working on the x-member or exhaust, I am going to finish installing my SSR driveshaft to make sure I don't put bits where the driveshaft wants to be. Time to change out the slip yoke to the shorter B-car slip yoke.. though I am tempted to just cut the slip yoke on there down and run it. Less hassle with pressing out the nylon pinned -joints and changing them out.
I also had to prep my mufflers for impending mods. I have some "old" Flowmaster 40 Series mufflers that I had on my53 F100 for about 500 miles. I cut the old pipe out of them and prepped them for the impending hybrid inlet/outlet mod. Plan is to run 3" pipes to the mufflers and then 2.5" out. The flow loss will not be a huge difference in power (mufflers are the big restriction for noise), and I'll have the cutouts ahead of the mufflers for when I need to
"go to 11".
REar brake line routing and a few frame pics..
Got the driveshaft in today. I had it shortened slightly by Dynotech/Balance Engineering. Think of them as a company that specializes in balancing equipment, with a side business building custom driveshafts. I had to change the slip yoke out from the SSR yoke to the shorter B-car yoke, so I burned out the OEM nylon retainers and popped in an OEM u-joint I had on the shelf. Slapped it in, and shot a coat of Krylon clear to keep it looking purdy.. FWIW, it was about $100 cheaper to get a used SSR shaft off ebay, and have it modified than to have a custom aluminum shaft made.
Here's a few pics of the new brake hoses installed. I need to add some retention near the spring.
Shot of the install to the rear crossmember.
And a shot of the modified LCA's and frame mods.
Luckily I found a free GPS app for my phone to track vehicle speed. 
