The ask Tin about audio thread

347convert said:
Paradigm monitor 7 v.2 the replacements through paradigm are $125ish
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Hmmmm. The issues when using a different spec'ed component are possibly differing efficiencies and impedance curve. All of that is taken into account when the manufacturer designs the crossover. You can use something off the shelf, but you would have to do some crossover work to make it mesh right.
 
Tin said:
It'll be a huge upgrade from the Kenny... you don't know what you're in for :lol:. Ya done good ;). That thing will probably wake the dead.
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This sub is insane. Almost to much if there is such a thing. On 1/4 power rattles the whole house from the basement. I highly recommend this kit. However get the momma approval first. I did not and she hates it. Oh well nothing a trip to Jared won't fix. Lol
 
Krazy-K said:
This sub is insane. Almost to much if there is such a thing. On 1/4 power rattles the whole house from the basement. I highly recommend this kit. However get the momma approval first. I did not and she hates it. Oh well nothing a trip to Jared won't fix. Lol
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I figured that thing was going to pound, that Dayton moves a lot of air. I dare you to put on pipe organ music, you'll probably be served divorce papers :lol:
 
Krazy-K said:
What's your take on these floor standing mains. Thinking about ordering these with a center from BIC as well pl28. http://floor-standing-speakers.toptenreviews.com/bic-acoustech-pl-89-review.html I read lots of good reviews, but would love your input.
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Not too sure about BIC's recent products, but their older stuff was typical of designs found in department stores in the 70's and 80's. Honestly, I'd grab something in the same league as your subwoofer. The Dayton kits available from Parts Express should match up very well.
 
WhiteHawk said:
Tin, any thoughts on Magneplanar's?

-Geoff
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Incredible, may need a sub to go with the smaller models. They need a lot of juice, 200W per channel or more would be ideal. Are you looking at new or used? If you're buying used, something more than 20 years old would need restoration due to the transducer coming unglued or torn over time. The best place for that is to send them directly to Magnepan. If you want to try it yourself, you can buy the kit with plans from them, too. Dipole speakers radiate sound from the front and back. Playing from the rear as well as the front adds a level of ambience that standard box speakers can't do. 4ft from the walls would be a good starting point. Too close to the walls will restrict the sound they are known for.
 
Tin said:
Incredible, may need a sub to go with the smaller models. They need a lot of juice, 200W per channel or more would be ideal. Are you looking at new or used? If you're buying used, something more than 20 years old would need restoration due to the transducer coming unglued or torn over time. The best place for that is to send them directly to Magnepan. If you want to try it yourself, you can buy the kit with plans from them, too. Dipole speakers radiate sound from the front and back. Playing from the rear as well as the front adds a level of ambience that standard box speakers can't do. 4ft from the walls would be a good starting point. Too close to the walls will restrict the sound they are known for.
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Thanks for the info. I have just always wanted a pair, and figured I would take advantage of this thread. I was surprised how cheap they were new, but I would like to find a used set. There is a set with an amp on Craigslist right now for a reasonable price ($700 I think) but I am still on the fence.

-Geoff
 
WhiteHawk said:
Thanks for the info. I have just always wanted a pair, and figured I would take advantage of this thread. I was surprised how cheap they were new, but I would like to find a used set. There is a set with an amp on Craigslist right now for a reasonable price ($700 I think) but I am still on the fence.

-Geoff
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Check out Martin Logan electrostatics as well. They're similar to Maggie's except the Logan's have a self powered helper woofer for bass duties. I heard a pair at Alma's Hifi on Woodward a couple years ago and was blown away. I almost bought them but none of my amps were up to snuff. I don't remember the exact model they were, but I was close to walking out $1600 lighter :lol:
 
have two 12" RockFord Fosgate "The Punch" PRO Series subs,SPP-124 ..Took them out of the car and out of the box yesterday because its WAY too loud..I wanna use one and put it in a single box and heres my question ---> Does it HAVE to be a ported box or can I use a sealed box?They have the vent on the magnets to cool them...
These are bad ass subs and super hard to get so don't wanna trash one so asking before I get a sealed box..



 
BTW,
Took them out of this box and you can see why..Other than they pound the living hell out of my head,I have NO room in the hatch of my 88 LX ..Just want a single box so its not as loud and room in the hatch :) ..

 
Where is the best place to get a box fitted to my truck? 2013 extended cab Seirra. I want either 1 or 2 10" sub's and mount the amp on box in between speakers. Also, what are some good sub's for let's say $100 each? Maybe willing to spend a little more. Thanks.
 
Jacob said:
have two 12" RockFord Fosgate "The Punch" PRO Series subs,SPP-124 ..Took them out of the car and out of the box yesterday because its WAY too loud..I wanna use one and put it in a single box and heres my question ---> Does it HAVE to be a ported box or can I use a sealed box?They have the vent on the magnets to cool them...
These are bad ass subs and super hard to get so don't wanna trash one so asking before I get a sealed box..
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They can be used in either box type - ported or sealed box, your choice. The vented pole will work fine either way - a sealed box will not diminish it. However, based on the driver specs, it was designed to work better in a ported config. You're probably going to lose significant low end, 20-30Hz, in a sealed box with that driver.

The 3 big questions you need to figure out are:
- Will the single sub go into another ported, or sealed box?
- What is the ideal box volume for that sub. The answer is different for ported vs. sealed.
- What amp are you going to power it with? If the old, existing amp - does it have enough power at the impedance you're going to be running to work? You might want to post up what amp you're running, and how the old box was wired. e.g. were the 2 subs wired in parallel, resulting in a 2 ohm load? Or in series - 8 ohm? Or is it a 2 channel amp & each sub had their own channel?

Here's the speaker specs: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/library/1993/5_Subwoofers/SPP-124_128-TS.pdf

If you're going to go ported, I would probably keep to the same box specs to ensure tuning is about the same... assuming both drivers in the old box were not sharing the same space. If they were, then you'll need to download WinISD or some other enclosure design software to figure out the ideal box size, port diameter and length. If you go sealed, I would go with as big a box as you can fit in whatever place you're putting it. But, the model doesn't change all that much once you get over 1 cu foot.

Amp-wise, that driver is rated for 200W @ 4 Ohms. You'll need to check the power output for your current amp @ 4 ohm and make sure it's at least 200W.

Personally, for that driver, I would go ported.... and I'm a sealed guy.
 
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Oops,
The system has been in my car for a while and the amp has no problems pushing both subs so its not going to be a issue with one :) ...I just wanted to know if i'll be good with a sealed box :) ..Thanks again ..
 
Killjoy said:
If they were, then you'll need to download WinISD or some other enclosure design software to figure out the ideal box size, port diameter and length.
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WinISD is a very nice piece of software. I designed a sealed cabinet for my Electro Voice coaxials, at 6cu ft they're near ruler flat down to 50Hz, with a F3 of 44Hz and a F10 at 30Hz. Very nice roll-off on the lows. In room response should be well into the low 30Hz range or better. One day when I get the funds, I will find a cabinet maker to build a pair. I plan on going with a golden ratio box shape, 36.75"H x 23.5"W x 14.75"D with the driver mounted off-set in the baffle. Those will be an expensive build, Baltic birch ain't cheap :lol:
 
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