Screw ford motors!

MentallyChallenged

MentallyChallenged

Banned
So today my buddie brought over his mustang that I put together for him. He purchased the car off of here and many parts for it off of here. Thus far the car has ran well except for a nagging high idle problem when the car gets hot. So today I popped the radiator cap to find it was low on coolant and the coolant at the top was all foam and smelled like exhaust... Well I confirmed by hooking up a coolant pressure tester which would only hold 12 psi in the cooling system. Then when the car was started the pressure tester guage lost some pressure but then the pressure increased when the motor got hotter or reved up more. It was almsot comical.

Thinking that we had installed non-stretch bolts from ARP since they were cheaper, that I may want to re-torque the heads down. This is a high mileage, E-303 cammed 302 roller motor with otherwise stock e-7 heads (besides valve springs.) I got online and inquired with FRYGUY302 about the issue since he knows ford motors. Apparently there are different gaskets for aluminum and non aluminum heads. :doh: Now my dumbass didnt think about it untill now, but I did not do my research when I bought the gaskets:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS-51400904&N=700+0&autoview=sku

Basically I'm thanking fryguy for helping. The fucked up part is I cant remember small chevy's using different head gaskets for aluminum or Iron heads. :dontknow: Whatever, now I get to fix my mistake...
 
HemiChallenger said:
So today my buddie brought over his mustang that I put together for him. He purchased the car off of here and many parts for it off of here. Thus far the car has ran well except for a nagging high idle problem when the car gets hot. So today I popped the radiator cap to find it was low on coolant and the coolant at the top was all foam and smelled like exhaust... Well I confirmed by hooking up a coolant pressure tester which would only hold 12 psi in the cooling system. Then when the car was started the pressure tester guage lost some pressure but then the pressure increased when the motor got hotter or reved up more. It was almsot comical.

Thinking that we had installed non-stretch bolts from ARP since they were cheaper, that I may want to re-torque the heads down. This is a high mileage, E-303 cammed 302 roller motor with otherwise stock e-7 heads (besides valve springs.) I got online and inquired with FRYGUY302 about the issue since he knows ford motors. Apparently there are different gaskets for aluminum and non aluminum heads. :doh: Now my dumbass didnt think about it untill now, but I did not do my research when I bought the gaskets:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS-51400904&N=700+0&autoview=sku

Basically I'm thanking fryguy for helping. The fucked up part is I cant remember small chevy's using different head gaskets for aluminum or Iron heads. :dontknow: Whatever, now I get to fix my mistake...
Click to expand...

SBCs also have 17 bolts per head, soo..........
 
I don't think it's a huge deal on the gaskets really, I just know with iron heads you're supposed to run the 1011-1 because of the fire ring, and aluminums are supposed to use 1011-2. Seems like it shouldn't be a big deal in a mild motor like that though.
 
Fryguy302 said:
I don't think it's a huge deal on the gaskets really, I just know with iron heads you're supposed to run the 1011-1 because of the fire ring, and aluminums are supposed to use 1011-2. Seems like it shouldn't be a big deal in a mild motor like that though.
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You'd think not, but hey there's a leak! I'm thinking about dropping cinnamon or radiator stop leak in the fucker and re-torquing the heads. Then again it's not a terribly hard or big job to replace the head gaskets.
 
HemiChallenger said:
You'd think not, but hey there's a leak! I'm thinking about dropping cinnamon or radiator stop leak in the fucker and re-torquing the heads. Then again it's not a terribly hard or big job to replace the head gaskets.
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don't be lazy :laugh:
 
Sounds like it's not Ford's fault. Sounds like it's yours. Maybe you should do alittle research before you work on something :dontknow:
 
91trunk said:
Sounds like it's not Ford's fault. Sounds like it's yours. Maybe you should do alittle research before you work on something :dontknow:
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Well with a chevy there's 5 head bolts per cylinder and the outer head bolts aren't open to the water jackets. I've never head of there being different gaskets for aluminum and iron heads and you'd think just about anything would seal with two iron surfaces.
 
YOu can try and use stop leak, but if its that bad then its past the point of a band-aid fix. Did you use teflon sealant on the bottom bolts? 302's go into the water jackets. Did you clean the heads and deck surface?? I know dumb questions, but they have to be asked.


Last but not least, when you take it apart, put the stock H.O cam back in it.
 
orangejuiced86 said:
YOu can try and use stop leak, but if its that bad then its past the point of a band-aid fix. Did you use teflon sealant on the bottom bolts? 302's go into the water jackets. Did you clean the heads and deck surface?? I know dumb questions, but they have to be asked.


Last but not least, when you take it apart, put the stock H.O cam back in it.
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Why the stock H.O. cam?

No teflon on bottom bolts. I thought about it, but I figured it would mess with the torque value of the bolt. Whatever the leak is it doesnt surface unilt the motor is warm and it's not terrible, but there.
 
HemiChallenger said:
Why the stock H.O. cam?

No teflon on bottom bolts. I thought about it, but I figured it would mess with the torque value of the bolt. Whatever the leak is it doesnt surface unilt the motor is warm and it's not terrible, but there.
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the bottom bolts go into the waterjackets and must be sealed.

The stock H.O camshaft is a good cam and is perfect for stock e7 heads, IMO. Up to you, but I have seen so many mustangs lose power when they go to an aftermarket cam with the stock heads.
 
orangejuiced86 said:
the bottom bolts go into the waterjackets and must be sealed.

The stock H.O camshaft is a good cam and is perfect for stock e7 heads, IMO. Up to you, but I have seen so many mustangs lose power when they go to an aftermarket cam with the stock heads.
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X2 Why waste your time with an E cam if you have stock heads. The factory stock guys are going in the bottom 12's high 11's with a stock cam
 
HemiChallenger said:
Well with a chevy there's 5 head bolts per cylinder and the outer head bolts aren't open to the water jackets. I've never head of there being different gaskets for aluminum and iron heads and you'd think just about anything would seal with two iron surfaces.
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Different expansion rates, aluminum head with iron block vs iron head with iron block.

You could always weld the head to the block... :wink:
 
Fryguy302 said:
I don't think it's a huge deal on the gaskets really, I just know with iron heads you're supposed to run the 1011-1 because of the fire ring, and aluminums are supposed to use 1011-2. Seems like it shouldn't be a big deal in a mild motor like that though.
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Huh, I have iron heads and I was told to run the 1011-2 gasket. I was told by a engine builder (Did the work on my heads) and Tom Kraft. SHould I swap for the -1's?
 
Casper302 said:
Huh, I have iron heads and I was told to run the 1011-2 gasket. I was told by a engine builder (Did the work on my heads) and Tom Kraft. SHould I swap for the -1's?
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It's been a long time since I used either of those gaskets, but from what I remember, 1011-1 has a steel-ring. 1011-2 has a copper ring for softer "crush" when using aluminum heads. To be honest it seems to me like they should be pretty interchangable, but that you wouldn't want to use 1011-1 if you didn't want the ring to make a mark in the deck surface of an aluminum head? Like I said, it's been many years, I went to 1006 lock wires back in 99 and have only used them until this year.
 
Fryguy302 said:
It's been a long time since I used either of those gaskets, but from what I remember, 1011-1 has a steel-ring. 1011-2 has a copper ring for softer "crush" when using aluminum heads. To be honest it seems to me like they should be pretty interchangable, but that you wouldn't want to use 1011-1 if you didn't want the ring to make a mark in the deck surface of an aluminum head? Like I said, it's been many years, I went to 1006 lock wires back in 99 and have only used them until this year.
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Yep it's got the copper wire. I will give my head guy a call later on today and see what he say's.
 
91trunk said:
BTW it's not a MOTOR! It's an ENGINE! :wink:
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That's actually not true, that was the old definition for "motor". Here's a cut and paste from websters:

mo‧tor  /ˈmoʊtər/ Pronunciation Key - Show Spelled Pronunciation[moh-ter] Pronunciation Key - Show IPA Pronunciation

–noun 1. a comparatively small and powerful engine, esp. an internal-combustion engine in an automobile, motorboat, or the like.
 
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