SBC rotating assemblies

dave89iroc

Club Member
350, .030 over, ported Dart Pro-1s, 64cc chamber

he wants to run ~11:1, maybe slightly higher, not sure on cam yet

wants all forged

Scat or Eagle? or a different brand, similar price(maybe slightly higher)
 
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I would run a scat crank, manley rods, and a mahle piston... There is no such kit obviously, but PM me if you want specifics as far as pricing.
 
For the crankshaft if I were you I would try to stick with a callies or howards crankshaft (USA made versions). The callies has a real nice case hardened heat treat that holds it's hardness when reground while the eagle would have a nitride that would need to be reapplied if any grinding was done. The tolerances on the eagle are also hit or miss and have heard some stories about the journals not being very round meaning you would have to go a bit looser on the tolerances in the mains and journals. Once everything is setup though, either of those cranks would do the job especially if this is an NA motor.

Whatever rods you go with try to invest in some bolts stronger than 8740 which include ARP2000 and L19. ARP's L19 material is really an H11 tool steel which is highly corrosive when under load. If you use L19 bolts make sure to wear gloves but keep in mind that H11 is 9x more corrosive when the bolt is under load/stretched so be especially careful when the bolts are torqued down and not to get any moisture on them!!! ARP2000 is a much more user friendly material that doesn't corrode very fast. Oliver steel rods would be my choice but eagle has great value especially with their L19 bolt upgraded rods.

JE, Diamond, Ross, CP, Wiseco are all very high quality pistons that would work very well. Pay close attention to whether or not you are ordering 2618 or 4032 material because the 2618 will expand a lot more and on a street motor might require so much cylinder clearance that you will have piston slap on startup. 4032 material is more so designed for a street motor and will have fairly tight piston to wall clearance. If he is going to be running a lot of nitrous or something try to upgrade the wrist pin while you order the pistons. Some piston pins are now tapered on the inside which allows it to be lightweight and yet very strong.

The H series Clevite bearings are always popular as well. If you are changing out the main bolts with studs make sure you get the block align honed. If the block is getting line bored make sure the timing chain doesn't have slop and that the converter lines up correctly. They make offset dowels for the transmission housing for cars with line bores that are far enough up for this to matter.
 
I have an Eagle crank and Scat rods in my motor. If you are running NA, I would get whatever is cheapest.

-Geoff
 
I have a Scat forged Crank, Scat H-beams, and JE pistons. Bought as an Assembly for just under 2k
 
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