Rebuilding the coupe!
- Thread starter JoeP.
- Start date
JoeP.
Club Member
Thanks! Well, that just about brings the project thread back up to date. The car came home from paint a week ago and I've been busy masking and painting the cage and new front tubing silver. The whole cage and body are masked off now, and the inside sheet metal will be sprayed in satin black since not much of the original interior will be going back in.
black88coupe
Club Member
Gonna be awesome for sure. Congrats Joe.
soap
Forum Member
Thanks! Well, that just about brings the project thread back up to date. The car came home from paint a week ago and I've been busy masking and painting the cage and new front tubing silver. The whole cage and body are masked off now, and the inside sheet metal will be sprayed in satin black since not much of the original interior will be going back in.
[/url]20180613_104750 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
OMG that looks (and sounds) like so much work.
--Joe
JoeP.
Club Member
It was an ozone emergency day as I opened the garage door and released a huge plume of Krylon overspray into the neighborhood. 3 days of masking and 3 hours of unmasking paid off though, and everything is freshened up again and ready for assembly.
I resprayed most of the cage again in silver "hammered" finish before masking the cage, then all interior metal was blacked out, then for a little contrast the trunk, mini-tubs, and rear seat floor area was sprayed in black/silver "spatter" trunk paint.
[/url]20180614_130039 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
[/url]20180614_130015 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
[/url]20180614_130137 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
[/url]20180614_130338 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
[/url]20180614_130501 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
I resprayed most of the cage again in silver "hammered" finish before masking the cage, then all interior metal was blacked out, then for a little contrast the trunk, mini-tubs, and rear seat floor area was sprayed in black/silver "spatter" trunk paint.
JoeP.
Club Member
Jeff fabbed up a new tubular driveshaft loop to replace the heavy old bolt in flat stock one, and incorporated a quick release mount for the shifter. I added a new -8AN ball valve for the nitrous supply line to replace the old -6AN one that it had.
[/url]20180619_124550 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
JoeP.
Club Member
I started on the new Optic Armor polycarbonate windows. The rear and doors are 1/8" thick with dark tint, the windshield is clear 3/16", the quarter glass will stay stock glass tinted to match.
The rear is a pre-formed drop in piece which fits well. I found 3/8" thick sponge weatherstrip at Lowes to support the window at factory height so there is no large gap between the window and mouldings. I used 6-32 stainless flat head allen drive screws with nylock nuts to anchor the window, 4" apart. The trick is not to overtighten them, and form waves in the window. Just snug enough to hold the window flat on the weatherstrip.
Marking and drilling for screws.
[/url]20180619_124517 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
Bolted in.
[/url]20180620_133310 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
Rear window finished. I put the screws as far outward as I could to hide them under the factory mouldings, but there are a couple at the bottom corners barely visable. Maybe I'll touch them up with black paint. Very happy with it overall, now on to the front windshield...
[/url]20180621_110242 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
The rear is a pre-formed drop in piece which fits well. I found 3/8" thick sponge weatherstrip at Lowes to support the window at factory height so there is no large gap between the window and mouldings. I used 6-32 stainless flat head allen drive screws with nylock nuts to anchor the window, 4" apart. The trick is not to overtighten them, and form waves in the window. Just snug enough to hold the window flat on the weatherstrip.
Marking and drilling for screws.
Bolted in.
Rear window finished. I put the screws as far outward as I could to hide them under the factory mouldings, but there are a couple at the bottom corners barely visable. Maybe I'll touch them up with black paint. Very happy with it overall, now on to the front windshield...
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black88coupe
Club Member
Looks KILLER! As usual.
JoeP.
Club Member
Today I finished mounting the windshield and also the Willwood aluminum brake pedal/dual master cylinders.
[/url]20180624_155459 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
[/url]20180624_205526 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
[/url]20180624_205554 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
Birdie2000
Club Member
Love the attention to detail! Looks great.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
JoeP.
Club Member
Yet to be determined, but it sure won't be light enough lol!
SB NOS minimum weight for drag radial is now 2300 lbs w/driver, and there is NO WAY I'll be close to that. It weighed about 2815 lbs with me in it before, and I'm really not sure how much it weighs now. I didn't get nearly as serious as Johnny Quick did with his old coupe, but I'm hoping it sits around 2450-2500 lbs race ready. It has no carbon other than the new wing, and my SBF is chunky with the 200 lb Dart iron block, 30+ lb CHI cast intake, dry sump oiling, etc. I'm really just giving what I had a makeover.
Speaking of, HOLEY SEAT!
I got carried away with the Greenlee knockout punch set and a 12 pack of Bud Light, but lost over 3.25 lbs from the Kirkey seat. It's still plenty solid when mounted in the cage. There's more in it, but I think I'll stop before I go too far. It will still have a cover snapped over it.
JoeP.
Club Member
LOL! Sheesh Denny, it took a couple days over a weekend to finish off the seat (and the beer). Not just today!
But, I did pick up the quarter windows and get them installed. Jason at JJ's window tinting in Tecumseh did an awesome job tinting the glass quarters to match the Optic Armor rear and door windows. I dropped them off to him so he wouldn't have to climb inside the rollcage. Also, Mustang guys know how hard it is to avoid the white tint area around the "dots" at the perimeter of these windows, no problems here. Thanks Jason!
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black88coupe
Club Member
AWESOME work Joe.
JoeP.
Club Member
I got some work done on the brake lines. The line lock mounted inside the firewall near the master cylinders, with the proportioning valve inline and pointed downwards so it can be reached below the dash. There is a bulkhead fitting through the firewall to each front brake flex hose. The rear brake line will run along the driver's sill plate area, then through a bulkhead fitting in the rear floor. I ran out of fittings, so I'll have to order a few more and find something else to do today.
[/url]20180630_172713 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
[/url]20180630_172755 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
[/url]20180630_172825 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
[/url]20180629_124952 by Joe Pinsoneault, on Flickr[/IMG]
