Project 25.5 Mustang

Baldie

Club Member
So I've been busy working on a 25.5 sfi Mustang for a local customer. Its been alot of work but getting closer. Just a mild 500ci, Bowtie aluminum headed BBC, FAST fuel injection with a 106mm turbo street car.


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Hi, Just wondering why do these stop here, why not go all the way to the front frame rail?
 

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The ballz.

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Parachute mount.

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One more bar to put in there and then done.

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Dash fits.

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25-5 almost done.

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Routing the down bars, figuring out what we are going to do for x bracing.

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New rims. Rear ones coming soon.

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Hi, Just wondering why do these stop here, why not go all the way to the front frame rail?

The rest of the subframe starts there. We end it there. Anymore, it would just be added weight. With the whole cage tied into the front, I doubt we should have much, if at all, chassis flex.
 
The rest of the subframe starts there. We end it there. Anymore, it would just be added weight. With the whole cage tied into the front, I doubt we should have much, if at all, chassis flex.

any more and it would just add weight??????????????

Just make sure the carpet is in when you go to certify it!
 
I did not see anywhere in the 25.5 book that states the subframe connectors have to go all the way up front?

Care to pm me some details on how this is wrong?

Would be better if you guys posted this stuff so that we could all learn from it. Just a request.
 
I did not see anywhere in the 25.5 book that states the subframe connectors have to go all the way up front?

Care to pm me some details on how this is wrong?

not trying to be a dick but I saw 2 cars get failed at the cert seminar because the 2A bar did not intersect with the 6A bar like it is pictured in the 25.5 book, it says the 2A bar must be 1 1/2 .065 round or 2x2 .083 and the stock sub frame is not 2x2 or have a thickness of .083

If the guy would have had his seat and carpet in it would have passed, I know the chassi cert guy in northern Ohio failed a well know DR car for not having the 2B bars which the Wolfe kit dosent have either.

Again I'm not trying to start problems for you, if your customer fails cert, you look real bad. Those bars (the 2A and 2B) are easy to add and will definatly help the way the car works and will help pass tech inspection!

sorry if I posted this in the open but guys like Raj wanted to know why I said that!

here's a pic of one that we did that certified the day the other 2 failed!
 

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The rest of the subframe starts there. We end it there. Anymore, it would just be added weight. With the whole cage tied into the front, I doubt we should have much, if at all, chassis flex.

.....and i didn't mean to point out anything in paticular. I've been researching running thru-floor subframes for my 86 notch for a while, and after seeing where those stopped - it automaticly drew a big question mark in my head.

best of luck - Dave
 
not trying to be a dick but I saw 2 cars get failed at the cert seminar because the 2A bar did not intersect with the 6A bar like it is pictured in the 25.5 book, it says the 2A bar must be 1 1/2 .065 round or 2x2 .083 and the stock sub frame is not 2x2 or have a thickness of .083

If the guy would have had his seat and carpet in it would have passed, I know the chassi cert guy in northern Ohio failed a well know DR car for not having the 2B bars which the Wolfe kit dosent have either.

Again I'm not trying to start problems for you, if your customer fails cert, you look real bad. Those bars (the 2A and 2B) are easy to add and will definatly help the way the car works and will help pass tech inspection!

sorry if I posted this in the open but guys like Raj wanted to know why I said that!

here's a pic of one that we did that certified the day the other 2 failed!

Thanks for the info Dave. This is my car actually, and is at a shop. WE talked about running the bars all the up front and made the decision to go ahead and do it that way. I dont want to risk this chassis not passing a cert when the times comes so I will just fix it now.

Once again, good looking out.

Justin.
 
the ohio cert guy is tough, i'd hate to see you do all that work and then have to re do it!

Yeah, I called a guy who I got alot of these bars from. I asked him about what I did to the frame connectors and told him also what you said. He said if Dave says it probly wont pass, fix it.
 
Well I have been busy working. Still have to run the subframs all the way up front yet. But for the most part, the 25.5 is done.

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