progressive nitrous controllers

PurpleHaze

PurpleHaze

Club Member
I have a question about progressive nitrous controllers. How do they work? I come from the thinking of an electrician and when a solenoid is powered it opens. So if it has no power to it its closed. How do they regulate the flow thru the solenoid? Is it that they just make the voltage to the solenoid variable?
 
They pulse the solenoids rapidly increasing the amount of time it is open with each pulse until they are completely open (100%)
 
team_southside said:
They pulse the solenoids rapidly increasing the amount of time it is open with each pulse until they are completely open (100%)
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yup.. and they kill solenoids pretty fast.. I used teh jacobs one on my bird and i had to change tthe solenoids every season cuz they would F8ck up and stop working or stick
 
oh ok thanks. Now I see how it would work. I just could not think of how they were doing it and pulsing them is one thing I didnt think of. Yeah I could see how that would be really hard on them. Someone should design something like a fuel injector to spray the No2.
 
PurpleHaze said:
oh ok thanks. Now I see how it would work. I just could not think of how they were doing it and pulsing them is one thing I didnt think of. Yeah I could see how that would be really hard on them. Someone should design something like a fuel injector to spray the No2.
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I know of somthing that would work for that.. we use them around here for some cool stuff..

But the problem with that is now you have to get a computer set up to control the injectors adding significantly to the cost people prob would go for it as the stuff they have now seems to work..
 
i had a controller on my car for a lil bit, it helps, its pretty nice to spray it and not have to pedal it on the street...you can set it up so it comes on fast or slow its pretty cool...i used it so the car wouldnt wheelie so bad but it did lose some et all in the 60ft...i didnt have any problems with the solenoids but did hear they are hard on em...
 
mls48341 said:
Couldn't you just use window switches to control when it comes in?
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for me? i dont know how good that would work in my situation cause the rpm range in my car wasnt that much, the converter went to 5k on the motor so probably 5800 or so on the nitrous and i shifted at 7500 or so i dont know how much that would work for me...
 
Couldn't you put it on a timer instead of rpm based. Wired to the trans brake switch so it hits @ 1.0 out or whatever works best for e.t. without blowing off the tires at the hit. Isn't that how most nitrous class cars work?
 
mls48341 said:
Couldn't you put it on a timer instead of rpm based. Wired to the trans brake switch so it hits @ 1.0 out or whatever works best for e.t. without blowing off the tires at the hit. Isn't that how most nitrous class cars work?
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for a second kit yeah, or if you make a ton of power on motor and dont need the nitrous to get off the line...but my shit needed the nitrous.... but a progressive is doing basically what your saying, its pretty cool i liked it, but the car lost about 1.5tenths becuase of the 60ft but that was it, it came on full like 1 sec into the run. i could turn it up to 10second if i wanted.. but just that lil bit would help so much with the wheelie and not go on the bumper...
 
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johnquick302 said:
for a second kit yeah, or if you make a ton of power on motor and dont need the nitrous to get off the line...but my shit needed the nitrous.... but a progressive is doing basically what your saying, its pretty cool i liked it, but the car lost about 1.5tenths becuase of the 60ft but that was it, it came on full like 1 sec into the run. i could turn it up to 10second if i wanted.. but just that lil bit would help so much with the wheelie and not go on the bumper...
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Well, that would be a good problem to have to deal with in my book!
My shits got 32 x 16.5 E.T. Streets, and it leaves like a frickin' dump truck LOL!
I make 600 n/a h.p., but need more stall. That's why I was looking at
putting a kit on it next season. Probably cheaper ultimately to put a Big Shot
on it than changing convertors. The 4500 stall now probably becomes more
like 5200-5500 on a 200 hit?
 
mls48341 said:
Well, that would be a good problem to have to deal with in my book!
My shits got 32 x 16.5 E.T. Streets, and it leaves like a frickin' dump truck LOL!
I make 600 n/a h.p., but need more stall. That's why I was looking at
putting a kit on it next season. Probably cheaper ultimately to put a Big Shot
on it than changing convertors. The 4500 stall now probably becomes more
like 5200-5500 on a 200 hit?
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if you have a big tire like that then there shouldnt be a need for a progressive, your not going to spin those tires, atleast you shouldnt if you do you should be working on the suspension more...you should just let the 200fly and call it a day...do you have a 2step, those are nice i was messing one with my boys car this year, it works great put the car on the 2 step on the brake we set it low like 1800 or so and when you let go of the button it flashed the converter hard, it went 1.25 60ft on 28x10.5 tires this year at ubly...you dont have to over think nitrous, you need to get ET, taking anything away from that your not going to go fast, window switches, timers, progressive kits...you want to be able to hit as much as you can off the line without issues...if you run another kit then do so as soon as you can, using nitrous down track dont work, mph does not win a race elapsed time does..the first 60ft in a race is most critical, so use as much of the line as possible...
 
Got the 2 step. I can chip it anywhere up to the converter flash and it
doesn't make much difference in the 60's between 3000-4500 rpm.
The car is so slow it's shocking. It won't 60 ft for shit, but it isn't spinning the tires hard either. I just kept increasing the chip rpm hoping it would hit the tires harder or something but had little impact on anything 60ft or e.t. wise. I think it's gonna need a better convertor.
I'll get it sorted out next season.
Too many changes all at once this year and I ran out of time and money.
The 830 d.p. carb might be a little small for it also.
The cheap ass Torco convertor probably isn't helping, although it flashes right
where they said it would.
Next season it gets a carb and the kit, possibly a convertor, and it better get in the 9's or I'll just burn it to the ground.:firedevil
 
In some cases a controller is the only way to get the power too hook, but if you spend that money on making the chassie work you will launch that thing like a dog getting kicked in the ass. But on a vette I'd run a progressive set-up for sure.
 
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