piston swap question

cjmatt

cjmatt

Club Member
may be a dumb question, i dont know a good reason why it wouldnt work though...

Anyhow, if you have an extremely low mileage engine, like test run only, probably only an hour of runtime max, an ls1 for example...can you swap the pistons and rods out, using the factory rings on new forged pistons that are already started to seat on the bores, just basically putting in new piston rod bearing assemblies to the crank already in the motor?
 
I wouldn't. But all it would need was a deglazing hone job which would knock maybe 0.0001 outta the bore and cost $100 at most machine shops.

but you sure could try it. I can't see why It wouldn't work but you might never get the ring back where it was. Not saying I haven't done similar things in the past but that wasn't a engine that was supposed to live very long.
 
well, the whole reason I thought about doing it was to get away from having to tear it down and machine it
 
so you are saying you are just putting old rings(kinda) on new rods?
I would want to have the system balanced since the weight will not be the same
 
Sean said:
as Larry already pointed out you are going to have to balance it. Did you buy pistons/Rods yet ?
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No, I had been planning on just doing a budget build stock shortblock for my turbo build. Only things im changing are the addiditon of arp headstuds and upgraded rod bolts as well as cam and springs. But I have been wondering if itd be a quick and easy change since I was gonna be unhooking the rods anyway. Its alot more work than I really wanna go through. id be better off building a seperate shortblock for down the road anyway if I want to crank it up.

Ill prob be best off trying to better harness the 500rwhp i want to make and put it to the ground instead of shooting for dyno numbers
 
cjmatt said:
No, I had been planning on just doing a budget build stock shortblock for my turbo build. Only things im changing are the addiditon of arp headstuds and upgraded rod bolts as well as cam and springs. But I have been wondering if itd be a quick and easy change since I was gonna be unhooking the rods anyway. Its alot more work than I really wanna go through. id be better off building a seperate shortblock for down the road anyway if I want to crank it up.

Ill prob be best off trying to better harness the 500rwhp i want to make and put it to the ground instead of shooting for dyno numbers
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A crank balance job isn't a big deal. Most times the aftermarket parts are close or a bit lighter then the factory stuff so no mallory is required. A hone and balance job would most likely be all thats needed.
 
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