Panhard Bar... installed... WOW

wikdsvt

wikdsvt

Club Member
well I finally got around to installing my panhard bar on the truck. I was supposed to remove the bed, but I lifted it about 4" and that was fine.

I lowered the rear end about an inch using longer shackles. These longer shackles allowed some slop and side to side movement.
(leaf spring rear suspension)

The panhard bar really tightened up the rear end. It is much more responsive and predictable.

I have a lowering kit that I'll put on in the next few weeks (free time gone now that salmon are running). It will lower the front about an inch. I'll level it out in the rear and adjust the panhard, making sure it is horizontal.

If the rear of your car seems sloppy, I strongly recommend a panhard bar. If you don't know what it is, it attaches to the the "pig" of the rear end and then to the frame. It prevents the rear end from moving from side to side, especially if you have leaf springs on the rear.

I'm sure most of you know what it is, but it really made a difference on the truck.
 
Yup thats what its called. Fbodys have them. I went from a polyurethane bushed panhard and poly bushed lower control arms, to full solid stuff, and the car handles much better. Feels much more solid and doesn't chatter the rear axle in corners. We have them stock, I can see where you would benefit on an application that doesn't have one.

I have a question, one end is on the axle housing, and one is on the body/frame. When the rear suspension goes up and down, the angle of the bar changes (wants to shift axle side to side). Does that cause any binding with your leaf springs?
 
Watts links are the best but a panhard isn;t bad if you have enough tire clearance to allow for some side to side movement during axle travel.
 
I've considered a panhard bar for my truck, but since all I really do is auto x'ing anyway the biggest thing it would do is bump me into a different class which really doesn't accomplish anythign for me.
 
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