Open car trailers

My suggestion would be to see if you could get without ramps at a lower cost. I got 100 off when I bought mine out here in arizona but I purchased 6 ft aluminum ramps off eBay for 300. But I had the manufacturer build the ramp holders underneath
 
Looked at the site.
Have a nice solid deck for $2390
Lists all kinds of info.... except the LENGTH!!! Ha!
Also doesn’t say if they are bias or radials.

Also, being from a dealer... gotta pay tax
It’s $2500 total for a 20’ with bias tires
And $2700 total for 20’ with radials and a spare and no tax as it’s a private sale from the guy Found on Facebook

Thanks for the link though.



Edit, found it, 2390 is a 16’

$3069 for an 18’ and $3590 for a 20’
All plus taxes

wrath said:
https://www.trailersalesofmichigan.com/
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Anthony said:
Looked at the site.
Have a nice solid deck for $2390
Lists all kinds of info.... except the LENGTH!!! Ha!
Also doesn’t say if they are bias or radials.

Also, being from a dealer... gotta pay tax
It’s $2500 total for a 20’ with bias tires
And $2700 total for 20’ with radials and a spare and no tax as it’s a private sale from the guy Found on Facebook

Thanks for the link though.



Edit, found it, 2390 is a 16’

$3069 for an 18’ and $3590 for a 20’
All plus taxes
Click to expand...

They used to offer a cash discount also, not sure if they still do. They will work with you on price depending on what "options" you want on it. They make the trailers right there so there is no middle man. So if you really want to buy two of them they might give you an even better deal.

That trailer on FaceSpace is an angle iron trailer... going to tow like a wet noodle, especially with that long tongue. Would not be surprised if you don't block up the back of the trailer if you were to drive something heavy on it that it'd fold up.
 
wrath said:
They used to offer a cash discount also, not sure if they still do. They will work with you on price depending on what "options" you want on it. They make the trailers right there so there is no middle man. So if you really want to buy two of them they might give you an even better deal.

That trailer on FaceSpace is an angle iron trailer... going to tow like a wet noodle, especially with that long tongue. Would not be surprised if you don't block up the back of the trailer if you were to drive something heavy on it that it'd fold up.
Click to expand...

I doubt it would “fold up” with a 3000lb car on it.

Tongue looks longer on the Jackson built trailer.

Both are of the fame frame design
C channel.
 
Last edited:
Anthony said:
I doubt it would “fold up” with a 3000lb car on it.

Tongue looks longer on the Jackson built trailer.

Both are of the fame frame design
C channel.
Click to expand...

Why the heck are you getting a 20' trailer to tow a small car on it? It's unwieldy. 20' car hauler is for crew cabs and Suburbans or making sure you only need one trailer for everything.

Angle iron trailers are wet noodles going down the road. That's why most of the "landscape trailers" have a "crash rail" about 16" above the deck... it's not there for your convenience, it's to try to stiffen up the trailer.

The tongue length matters more than most people think. The longer the tongue, the easier to put too much or too little tongue weight on the trailer. The longer the tongue without a deck the more it will flex. The longer the distance between the trailer axles and the coupler the more the frame of the trailer flexes.

The trailers aren't even close to the same design.

A good trailer at that size/capacity will have a piece of 5" channel for the whole frame. Cross-ties will be made of at least 2x3x3/16" angle, preferably 3" channel. The tongue would ideally be at least 4" channel that goes back to the front spring hanger. Sometimes people bend the same piece of 5" channel the frame is made out of and use that for the tongue, but that raises the coupler up high enough that you need to flip the ball mount upside down on a half ton truck. Also, once you bend the 5" channel you take some strength out of it.

This is a very high quality trailer but it is expensive:
https://www.pjtrailers.com/trailers/b5-5-inch-channel-buggy-hauler

angleirontrailerweakspot.jpg
 
my dad just got a brand new RnR aluminum 18 ft for i think just under 5k.

if i was going to get one again it would be aluminum. its so much easier i can literally push it through the grass by myself.
 
wrath said:
Why the heck are you getting a 20' trailer to tow a small car on it? It's unwieldy. 20' car hauler is for crew cabs and Suburbans or making sure you only need one trailer for everything.

Angle iron trailers are wet noodles going down the road. That's why most of the "landscape trailers" have a "crash rail" about 16" above the deck... it's not there for your convenience, it's to try to stiffen up the trailer.

The tongue length matters more than most people think. The longer the tongue, the easier to put too much or too little tongue weight on the trailer. The longer the tongue without a deck the more it will flex. The longer the distance between the trailer axles and the coupler the more the frame of the trailer flexes.

The trailers aren't even close to the same design.

A good trailer at that size/capacity will have a piece of 5" channel for the whole frame. Cross-ties will be made of at least 2x3x3/16" angle, preferably 3" channel. The tongue would ideally be at least 4" channel that goes back to the front spring hanger. Sometimes people bend the same piece of 5" channel the frame is made out of and use that for the tongue, but that raises the coupler up high enough that you need to flip the ball mount upside down on a half ton truck. Also, once you bend the 5" channel you take some strength out of it.

This is a very high quality trailer but it is expensive:
https://www.pjtrailers.com/trailers/b5-5-inch-channel-buggy-hauler

angleirontrailerweakspot.jpg
Click to expand...

Secondary purpose is to pull a car.

Primary is to pull my Polaris ranger 10’ long and my zero turn up to St Helen.
Mower is 6’

18’s have a 16ish foot deck with 2’ dove
Plenty of room on a 20’ and if I end up buying my son a ATV, I got room


Then pull a car somewhere if needed
 
I seen an aluminum double axle dove tail used for sale in green oak today but couldn’t stop, if that’s something you are interested in all get the number. Looked like an 18’ maybe.
 
Anthony said:
Secondary purpose is to pull a car.

Primary is to pull my Polaris ranger 10’ long and my zero turn up to St Helen.
Mower is 6’

18’s have a 16ish foot deck with 2’ dove
Plenty of room on a 20’ and if I end up buying my son a ATV, I got room


Then pull a car somewhere if needed
Click to expand...

I would just find a cheap used landscape trailer then.

I would not want to move a car with an angle iron trailer. They do bend and they do flop around. I know they bend because I've had people ask me to straighten their trailers. One was so mangled I bought it for scrap and used it for a bridge across the creek.

I have a small utility trailer I bought off a guy for cheap (it's 5x10) because he bent it driving his Razor into the trailer without supporting the tail constantly. It popped a couple welds on the crash rail so it bent. I fixed it like I do with all the others and used an A-frame and a double-lined 12,000lb winch. It's still 1/2" drooping out the back.

If you really want that angle iron trailer you can make it stronger by adding a rail of box tube up higher but that defeats the purpose of a flat bed trailer. Usually what I do is use a piece of box steel and then run 14 gauge sheet between the old deck and the crash rail. Stiffens the trailer immensely but still lets it twist enough not to pop welds.
 
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