Oil pump ?

SVTSINR

Club Member
I have been chasing an abnormally high pressure on a new motor, 100+ psi. It pretty much maxes the auto meter electrical gauge out. I would have thought the gauge was wrong but the turbo seals are leaking. I have tried different weight oils and oil filters.

If you look at the pump (pick up tube side) shouldn't the port on the right be blocked off and the other be open to the pick up tube?

What else can cause excessive pressure?

TIA
 

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in theory, only thing that will cause extremely high pressure is a bad pressure relief valve/too strong a pressure relief spring in the pump

tight clearances will can effect overall pressure, but the fact remains, the relief valve should vent over a certain pressure
 
yeah i had that issue awhile ago with one of my old motors. it would be 100psi when it was cold and when it warmed up it would go down. but eventually i put a new oil pump in it and fixxed the problem. heard the same thing about the spring going bad or was defective
 
if its new do you know any info on it? was a high volume or high pressure pump used?

I bought the shortblock rebuilt but I believe the pump was new and came with the shortblock.
I ordered a new pump today from Livernois so I'll try that and see what happens.
 
some ls1's had that issue too(including mine(. The valve would get get stuck. you would have high pressure or none
 
Has anyone seen a pump like this?


That spring is probably within a turn or so of being all the way in. You need to back it off. Mine was turned all the way in and we were getting ~80 psi at idle and it would flash to 100+ psi while snapping the throttle. Thru the traps at the track it would max the gage out. The following year we backed the spring off a turn and it is now at ~75 psi at idle and ~ 95-100 thru the traps.

It would depend on how much pressure you are looking for but from the sound of it you may want to back the spring off until it is flush with the mounting face and then turn in maybe a half a turn. Or just leave it flush.
 
That spring is probably within a turn or so of being all the way in. You need to back it off. Mine was turned all the way in and we were getting ~80 psi at idle and it would flash to 100+ psi while snapping the throttle. Thru the traps at the track it would max the gage out. The following year we backed the spring off a turn and it is now at ~75 psi at idle and ~ 95-100 thru the traps.

It would depend on how much pressure you are looking for but from the sound of it you may want to back the spring off until it is flush with the mounting face and then turn in maybe a half a turn. Or just leave it flush.

Cool someone has seen a pump like this. I didn't know it was adjustable I just installed it as is. This is pretty much a low rpm street car so I'm going to install a regular pump in it. It's too much work if I'm wrong about the adjustment.
thanks for the reply..
 
Cool someone has seen a pump like this. I didn't know it was adjustable I just installed it as is. This is pretty much a low rpm street car so I'm going to install a regular pump in it. It's too much work if I'm wrong about the adjustment.
thanks for the reply..


Anytime you install an oil pump, you should take it apart, clean it, inspect it, and if everything looks ok, lube it up, put it back together, and then bolt it down. I hear ya on the adjustment part being a pain in the ass, but oil pressure saves parts. I like to see at least 10 lbs / 1000 RPM anyway. You can pressure test them on a bench, but you need something where you can set a specific RPM. You can make an adapter to attach a gage to the pump. Then all you'll need is a few known RPM levels that the engine will see, and you can verify the oil pressures at those points, make a specific adjustment to the spring and check it again. Even if the numbers aren't 100 precent accurate, you can take the delta and get a percentage change and adjust it from where you know it was.
 
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