need trans mount advice

[cjmatt]

Which motor are we talking about here? LS?? Which oilpan? FWIW PIckups with LS motors (factory not mine ) are mounted at 6 degrees, and the oilpan is designed with that in mind. I'll have to look through my list o'info and see what an F-body pan angled for. Either you should be fine, it might throw the dipstick reading off a bit but other than that no probs.

As for the 3 degree bushing thing, if you are running 1/4's all the time, that will help with u-joint loads on hard launches. Running down the highway at 70 is not putting a lot of reaction torque load on the bushings, you would likely have misalignment an possibly some vibration. Also, if you are running urethane bushings on the rear control arms, you can run less angle, as they deflect very little.

If you wanted some tuning options, set your x member up with a 1/4" spacer under the mount. That way, you have room to add/remove shims to play with driveline angle a bit.

If the connector is getting into the tunnel... well BFH's do wonders for that. Careful hammering can form a "Recess" that can be smoothed to look factory. I did that on my Caprice to fit the reverse lockout solenoid from the T56.. looked way better than I thought.

Its an F-body oil pan. 6* would be perfect if that was the case. I did do a little hammering with a large brass punch to clearance it, then gave it the spray paint treatment. not looking for a show car here...it looks good enough for me. I was just worried that 5-6* was too much.

did you knock the tack welds off the tubes and slide the crossmember?

I dont know what a stock crossmember looks like even. Mine never had it. it was already cut off. I had an aftermarket crossmember that drills thru the frame and you bolt down. I moved them back and redrilled them, but its still not totally aligned. I could probably slot the holes slightly to get them to line up better, but I need the mount to be reworked to slide my exhaust pipe under anyhow.

 

[svtserpent]

it was simple, you guys did the mini tub right? make the crossmember work, all he did was weld a plate onit and brace it, its pretty simple to do

^
This is what I did

 

[black88coupe]

Good info.

Two answers.
1. The least amount, and
2. the vertical angle (of both lines intersecting a horizontal line) to your axle pinion angle at ride height. If the pinion is 2 degrees nose up, then you want the trans centerline 2 degrees nose down. U joints vibrate due to the varying speeds as you spin a driveshaft, the object is to cancel the fornt joint vibrations with the rear. Putting the pinion and tailshaft at vertical angles creates cancellation of the vibrations.

FYI you also don't want the pinion and tailshaft directly in line either as this will not allow the needle bearings in the u joints to rotate and they will lose lubrication over time..

Hth