mustang running really poor now

i dont think she's missing... at least not bad... shes just rich as all hell. it is registering heat i drove it about 3 miles today after idling for a half hour. i found the sensor i need to get a big enough open end... get her out. i just flushed the rad and omg is there a ton of nasty nasty brown foam int here.. like mud thiss tuff is nasty... it also helped that i pulled out the tstat and cleaned that but i think its clogged again already.
 
yeah thas what im in the process of... rmoving the tstat and fluching everything...... now only problem is finding it... the cooling system looks funky. please tell me its not behind the water pump.
 
okay well it run better now..., not so rich..... but now i feel like its not timed worth crap... anyone able to stop bye tonight and check it out?
 
runs a little better really gotta block the egr ports in the heads thats the only major issue left. after that it should be out f limp mode so maybe i can time it.
 
86 is a true flattop forged piston where the 87-92 have 4 valve reliefs in it. I used to run factory stock NRMA back in the day and these were the ones to have. All you need to do is fly cut the pistons to fit the valves. With a GT40P head those pistons would work great!

As for your other issue make sure you take all the emmision stuff out but do not unplug the EGR sensor; just leave it there. It will set a secondary code but not a primary so you MIL light should be off. As for the rest of the emmision junk, lose all the stuff behind the passenger fender & the evap can. There are two vaccuum solenoids and some other stuff that can all go. There is also two vaccuum resivors in the inner fender that can go. The charcoal canister on the right front rail can go too. The fuel tank vent is there; I usually just inplug it and run it into the fender.

As for the 02's - does it run OK at WOT? In WOT, the ecu goes into open loop and does not correct for the 02 sensor. If you really want to see if its them; unplugg the harness (not at the o2, this will set the code. must be the main plug) and it will force it into open loop all the time with no codes but will kill your mileage.

Hope this helps!

PS If you set the timing make sure to pull the spout!
 
i pull the spout at timiong thats no issue... just the current vacuum leaks. you id help a lot thanks. i am pulling all the cans and canisters finishing tomroow... the egr valve/sensor or whatever is still conected. she hauls balls at full throttle but i have the timing retarded to be on thesafe side. so she is slower than she should be.
 
well i've been working on her all morning... blocked the ports in the back of the heads (omg i that help) blocked every vacuum leak i can fin and did another ear tune (i know i need a timing light). She now idles smooth.

new problems (or unresovled whatever):

1. lots of blue smoke that wasn't there before. kinda makes me woried.

2. surging a lot at cruise. she i this before when the firing order was out of wack. and i did unhook the wires again maybe i should check that.

3. at about 3/4 throttle she makes a lot of noise but doesnt seem to go much of anywhere, at 100% she misses and pops and falls on her face, at any constant throttle (cruising) in any gear she will hold for about 30-50 feet then start surging. again i think either my timing is way jacked or i've got the wires crossed again. cause before headers the timing was aprox. right where it is now (distributor position) and she was doing great.

ugh shoulda never messed with her at all. why cant i ever just be happy with a car the way it is lol.
 
do you know any one with a timing light?? it sounds like you got the plug wires mixxed up if its popping and backfiring
 
well i burned up the valves runnign open long tubes... getting oil now into the pistons got some blue smoke... fixed most of the vacuum leaks but need her ready for pinks all out next spring for the gf to drive... so time to do a mild junkyard build. hope for low 12's.
 
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