LT1 Opti-spark to LS1 ltcc conversion

I've been considering doing this for the LT1 I have sitting in my garage. There's a few ways to do it, none of which are cheap.
 
dave89iroc said:
we're talking abvout LT1s here, and they gave me an idea, I have a gen 1 sbc vortec shortblock in the garage, I could have fun with it, all i need is that wheel, lol
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If you just want to run the newer controller on and older Gen1 (Gen1E actually) Vortec, then use the harness and controller out of a 2000-2002 Van. It used same PCM, but was setup to run the standard dizzy that the 96-99 vortecs used. I dunno if you can use it to run 8 coils though. I'll see the a that can answer that on Monday.

IF you wanted just the reluctor... well they want $500 or so for it.. check out eficonnection.com
 
There's a thread on LS1tech about using the stuff out of the 2000-2002 vans. I think it might have even been started by one of the guys from EFI connection before they were in business.
 
Birdie2000 said:
There's a thread on LS1tech about using the stuff out of the 2000-2002 vans. I think it might have even been started by one of the guys from EFI connection before they were in business.
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Good to know.. I checked, the 2000-02 vans used the 0411 PCM, but the 2X/4x cam and crank sensor are not set up to run individual coils.. I am digging deeper. The 2001+ big blocks were 24x crank signals, but it looks like they ran a big reluctor like on the LS1's. Maybe not the same one, but it is pressed onto the back of the crank.

Another way is just to use a 24x reluctor bolted to the crank damper. IF you bolt it to the hub, not the ring, it should read pretty good, but it'll be prone to dirt and stuff messing with the sensor, like an external MSD crank trigger would..

The big key to the whole EFI connection kit is the reluctor... seems like somebody could whittle one up from two laser cut pieces cheaper than they charge for the billet steel ring.
 
beertestr said:
Good to know.. I checked, the 2000-02 vans used the 0411 PCM, but the 2X/4x cam and crank sensor are not set up to run individual coils.. I am digging deeper. The 2001+ big blocks were 24x crank signals, but it looks like they ran a big reluctor like on the LS1's. Maybe not the same one, but it is pressed onto the back of the crank.

Another way is just to use a 24x reluctor bolted to the crank damper. IF you bolt it to the hub, not the ring, it should read pretty good, but it'll be prone to dirt and stuff messing with the sensor, like an external MSD crank trigger would..

The big key to the whole EFI connection kit is the reluctor... seems like somebody could whittle one up from two laser cut pieces cheaper than they charge for the billet steel ring.
Click to expand...

agreed, does it need to be out of two pieces?
 
dave89iroc said:
agreed, does it need to be out of two pieces?
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Not sure. The stock 24X reluctor is two pieces and there are a bunch of "half" steps... but the 58X is looks like a gear, and is one piece. If it needed to be 2 pieces, then just cut both individually, and sync them up with the crank key. There definitely is a need to get the reluctor fitting the right way so the PCM can figure out the crank position, the CKP learn function is only good for slight angular variation (10 crank degrees or so I figure), so there is a little work to be done there.

I was just figuring two pieces as it lends itself to being laser cut, and I know a guy that owns a laser cutting shop.. It might be able to be made other ways, just thinking about the resources I have.
 
If you want to laser cut it, you can take a look at my modified opti if you like. As I said earlier, I had it modified by a guy on LS1tech who was offering an alternative to the EFI connection piece. It's a replacement disc for the inside of the opti that outputs both the cam and 24x signals in a simple bolt on opti replacement. The piece is laser cut I believe. Shouldn't be too hard to do really.

ModifiedOpti.jpg
 
Its a dual track bipolar switch. The track prevent false triggering by forcing one half od the sensor high and the other side low.This is a way to guarentee accruate waveform shape and also help with cylinder detection for a fast start.

The later 58-2 wheel since it has more teeth allows for better missfire detection and slower crank sync.

the 24 x wheel can be synced to fire in 1 revolution. the 58-2 wheel require at least 2 revolutions to determine TDC on cylinder 1 & 6 in the firing order for a wastefire start.




beertestr said:
Not sure. The stock 24X reluctor is two pieces and there are a bunch of "half" steps... but the 58X is looks like a gear, and is one piece. If it needed to be 2 pieces, then just cut both individually, and sync them up with the crank key. There definitely is a need to get the reluctor fitting the right way so the PCM can figure out the crank position, the CKP learn function is only good for slight angular variation (10 crank degrees or so I figure), so there is a little work to be done there.

I was just figuring two pieces as it lends itself to being laser cut, and I know a guy that owns a laser cutting shop.. It might be able to be made other ways, just thinking about the resources I have.
Click to expand...
 
Birdie2000 said:
If you want to laser cut it, you can take a look at my modified opti if you like. As I said earlier, I had it modified by a guy on LS1tech who was offering an alternative to the EFI connection piece. It's a replacement disc for the inside of the opti that outputs both the cam and 24x signals in a simple bolt on opti replacement. The piece is laser cut I believe. Shouldn't be too hard to do really.

ModifiedOpti.jpg
Click to expand...


I'd like to see the guts of the unit you have. Do you have a link to any threads on the opti conversion. It's a nice alternative. Aside from getting multi-coil capability, I would really like to get rid of the leaky opti-hole in the front cover, maybe even convert to a regualr water pump to get rid of another leak path, so this does not meet this goal. Can't have everything. I am still looking to see if you need the 24x to run multiple coils, or can you run the 2x 4x setup in the 0411 controllers to do the same thing. If you can do that, then you can use a 96 timing cover and sensor setup.

I did find a big block 24x trigger, but the crank snout is 10mm larger than a small block, so it's not a bolt in reluctor either..
 
Got a potential solution. 1998 Big Block had a 24x reluctor on the snout. Looks like the OD and offset are right, but the BBC crank snout is about 9mm larger. The hub is about 5mm thick, so a simple ~4.5mm thick, 5 mm wide ring with key's cut on the ID on OD would work... and the reluctor is about $25 from the dealer... Looking for the PN now..
 
beertestr said:
Got a potential solution. 1998 Big Block had a 24x reluctor on the snout. Looks like the OD and offset are right, but the BBC crank snout is about 9mm larger. The hub is about 5mm thick, so a simple ~4.5mm thick, 5 mm wide ring with key's cut on the ID on OD would work... and the reluctor is about $25 from the dealer... Looking for the PN now..
Click to expand...

is the OD the same as the SBC one though?
 
beertestr said:
I'd like to see the guts of the unit you have. Do you have a link to any threads on the opti conversion. It's a nice alternative. Aside from getting multi-coil capability, I would really like to get rid of the leaky opti-hole in the front cover, maybe even convert to a regualr water pump to get rid of another leak path, so this does not meet this goal. Can't have everything. I am still looking to see if you need the 24x to run multiple coils, or can you run the 2x 4x setup in the 0411 controllers to do the same thing. If you can do that, then you can use a 96 timing cover and sensor setup.

I did find a big block 24x trigger, but the crank snout is 10mm larger than a small block, so it's not a bolt in reluctor either..
Click to expand...

Well, I just went to open the thing up and the guy put some sort of security screw on it. It has 4 points and looks like it would receive a phillips head screwdriver, but the phillips barely makes contact and would strip it out right away if I tried. So, until I find out what kind of bit I would need, basically a torx bit with only 4 points on it, I can't get it open without risk of stripping out the bolts. Anyone know what kind of bit I'm describing?
 
Isn't that called a "Reed-Prince" head? I have a screwdriver like that, looks like a phillips but very flat and shallow. Never came across anything that needed one though.
 
dave89iroc said:
is the OD the same as the SBC one though?
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Lemme check...

beertestr said:
Got a potential solution. 1998 Big Block had a 24x reluctor on the snout. Looks like the OD and offset are right, but the BBC crank snout is about 9mm larger.
Click to expand...

Yup.. :)..

They are both right at 4" in diameter on the largest OD, aka top of the toof.

Just gotta figure out if the keys are cut in the same position relative to eachother, and away you go..

I was rifling through my pile of parts.. looks like I have a few of the 0411 controllers, some connectors, and some coil packs. I scored a 94 Roadmaster LT1 harness the other day, just needs the wiring for the crank sensor added. Too bad a regular timing cover wouldn't fit, I'd love to be able to just junk that entire cover and get rid of the leaks..
 
beertestr said:
Lemme check...



Yup.. :)..

They are both right at 4" in diameter on the largest OD, aka top of the toof.

Just gotta figure out if the keys are cut in the same position relative to eachother, and away you go..

I was rifling through my pile of parts.. looks like I have a few of the 0411 controllers, some connectors, and some coil packs. I scored a 94 Roadmaster LT1 harness the other day, just needs the wiring for the crank sensor added. Too bad a regular timing cover wouldn't fit, I'd love to be able to just junk that entire cover and get rid of the leaks..
Click to expand...

let me kinow if you figure anything out, wiring is nothing I'm worried about, and controllers are all over, the reluctor is the 1 unique part we need to come up with
 
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