Lets talk Motor Plates

MentalMisfit

MentalMisfit

Club Member
Okay kind of decided I don't think solid motor mounts will handle what i'm planning on building for the car and might as well just put some plates in it. 351W block with a Turbo400 trans is the plan right now.

Looking for good brands to go with or positive experiences.

I was looking at the ones from Skinny Kid racecars looks like they have one that will let you run a 351w and still bolt up a Turbo 400 trans without running an ultrabell conversion so I'd just be able to bolt up a regular turbo 400 to the car.
Anyone have any experience with those? If it works It would end up saving me a bunch of money on my trans.
 
Pwraddr said:
I have the skrc mid and front, nice pieces. Racecraft also makes some nice stuff.
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What engine trans combo? Guess I'll have to call them and ask should be ordering the motor plates in a few weeks here. Getting my plates and headers done here shortly :D.
 
Thanks guys. Guess I'll call SKRC and ask about the midplate adapater. if i can get away from using an ultrabell I'd be pretty happy. $100 more for the midplate but $400 less for my trans.
 
So you make enough power that you dont think motor mounts will handle it... but yet your going to use a stock 400 bellhousing????

Save up and do it right. Your feet will thank you
 
Probably going with a Rossler turbo 400 Guess i thought they would come with a HD bellhousing. Guess I'll have to look into it a bit more.

And thanks for the heads up :D If I end up needing An Ultrabell anyways might as well just get it to for a 351w.
 
There is an advantage to running the adapter midplate but not the fact that you can use a stock chevy bell. It's that you can run a driver side starter allowing for a full length kick out. I know that billet fab makes a pan like that but I don't know if they make one to use an internal oil pump.
 
Depending on class requirements, you may need a ring gear shield. If your running all sfi approved items, the ultra bell will help with meeting those requirements.
Personally I prefer mid plates because the aliment is more accurate. As far as a stock 400 bell housing goes for strength, Ive never seen one break from hp. I supply transmissions to some 25+ monster trucks that have anywhere from 1500-2000hp, not to mention 12,000 lbs (which is much harder on parts than any drag race car that's 2500-3500 lbs) and believe me, if the car is assembled correctly it will not break from hp.
Running a ultrabell with no machining is ok for strictly a drag race car (a car that runs some 90 seconds per pass), but for a dd or with heavy street usage, the bell should be mated to the block for proper alignment (especially blocks that have been line bored-crank is moved up further into the block). This prevents excessive wear on the pump and converter hub, with both eventually lead to leakage.
Note: the skinny kid mid plates have longer tabs than other mid plates.
 
Ended up going with SKRC plates its at TeamZ now getting them installed and my headers done. Pics when its done in my project thread :D
 
Thanks joe coming from you means a lot. It needs to see some sun light though. Guy i got it from had it in a barn for about 7 years. Been in my garage for a little over a year i think. Hoping for end of this summer or next spring. Just wish i had the spare cash to have Dave redo my cage just isn't in the budget yet :(
 
Don't forget the most important thing when doing plates...a engine limiter is a critical part the motor plates only control side to side movement so without a engine limiter when u launch the car the. The motor and trans is going to head towrds the rear of. The car
 
408cleveland 88 gt said:
Don't forget the most important thing when doing plates...a engine limiter is a critical part the motor plates only control side to side movement so without a engine limiter when u launch the car the. The motor and trans is going to head towrds the rear of. The car
Click to expand...

If you buy the SKRC motor plates as a kit it comes with an engine limiter.
 
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