Jeep won't start

Exgmguy

Exgmguy

Club Member
I am having an issue with my 94 Grand Cherokee that won't start. Well, it will start, then stall right away. Spark is good and fuel pressure is 35-40 psi. The strange thing is if I depress the schrader valve on the fuel rail and let gas spray everywhere, it will run. As soon as I stop bleeding off fuel it stalls again.

The first thing I thought was that it had a bad fuel pressure regulator. After testing pressure, the regulator is obviously fine. Then I thought maybe a bad MAP sensor was tricking the ECM into dumping too much fuel. No luck there either. I took it to Jakes Automotive at 15 mile and Crooks and they tell me that the fuel filter was clogged, and it needs a new pump. $590.00!!! I told them I do not think it is a bad pump, but they say it is.

Now what happens tomorrow when they call me and tell me it needs more than a pump? I don't need them arbitrarily throwing parts at it. I could do that myself.

Thanks,
Rob
 
Has anyone check the injector drive circut and the ASD relay for intermitent operation ?There could be a an issue with crank sensor as well.

Sean

Exgmguy said:
I am having an issue with my 94 Grand Cherokee that won't start. Well, it will start, then stall right away. Spark is good and fuel pressure is 35-40 psi. The strange thing is if I depress the schrader valve on the fuel rail and let gas spray everywhere, it will run. As soon as I stop bleeding off fuel it stalls again.

The first thing I thought was that it had a bad fuel pressure regulator. After testing pressure, the regulator is obviously fine. Then I thought maybe a bad MAP sensor was tricking the ECM into dumping too much fuel. No luck there either. I took it to Jakes Automotive at 15 mile and Crooks and they tell me that the fuel filter was clogged, and it needs a new pump. $590.00!!! I told them I do not think it is a bad pump, but they say it is.

Now what happens tomorrow when they call me and tell me it needs more than a pump? I don't need them arbitrarily throwing parts at it. I could do that myself.

Thanks,
Rob
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BigWheelinBubba said:
How can too much fuel be diagnosed as a bad pump :dontknow:

I would try checking the return line for blockage.
Click to expand...

I initially thought it had too much pressure considering it would run if I bled fuel out of the schrader valve. But I put a gauge on the line and it was right where it should be.
 
Sean said:
Has anyone check the injector drive circut and the ASD relay for intermitent operation ?There could be a an issue with crank sensor as well.

Sean
Click to expand...

I don't think that stuff was checked. What is an ASD relay?
 
igotaneed4speed said:
if it starts and u hit the gas pedal just cracking the tb will it stay running?
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No it will not. It dies no matter what you do with the throttle after it starts.

I can't imagine why the hell it stays running if I bleed fuel out of the fuel rail. That makes no sense!
 
It could be a bad pump.

The more PSI (pressure) a pump makes the more energy/amperage it takes to make it work.

So maybe by you bleading it off it is allowing the pump to run with out the full restriction and will stay on.

Or what ever drives your fuel pump could be freaking out too with that amp draw.
 
This happened in a parking lot at a bar. I went out to get something from the vehicle and when I unlocked the door the horn started beeping. I had no idea it had a factory alarm. After doing some reading, I guess if the alarm is not reset, it will do exactly my problem. Start and stall.

I called the shop (I can only imagine how bad they are mutherfucking me for bothering them) to tell them, and that I would like to just pick the Jeep up myself and fix it. They disagree and say it is the pump, the tank is out, and I'll still have to pay the labor.
I have no alarm transmitter either. So they will probably replace the fuel pump and it will have the same problem. Then they will reset the alarm and it will be fine. Of course, after I pay almost $600 for a fuel pump.

I should have towed the damn thing home.
 
A problem with injector drive current could be cuasing this problem. If you don;t have enough voltage supply to the injector it will not open at high pressure. I am assuming that it runs but very poorly with the schrader depressed. If you want a second opinion let me know.

Sean

Exgmguy said:
No it will not. It dies no matter what you do with the throttle after it starts.

I can't imagine why the hell it stays running if I bleed fuel out of the fuel rail. That makes no sense!
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did you authorize the teardown inspection ??? If not tell them to eat the bill. Before doing anything to the vehicle they must give you and estimate of cost for the repairs. If you authorized 1hr but they spent 2 thats not your problem.

Sean



Exgmguy said:
This happened in a parking lot at a bar. I went out to get something from the vehicle and when I unlocked the door the horn started beeping. I had no idea it had a factory alarm. After doing some reading, I guess if the alarm is not reset, it will do exactly my problem. Start and stall.

I called the shop (I can only imagine how bad they are mutherfucking me for bothering them) to tell them, and that I would like to just pick the Jeep up myself and fix it. They disagree and say it is the pump, the tank is out, and I'll still have to pay the labor.
I have no alarm transmitter either. So they will probably replace the fuel pump and it will have the same problem. Then they will reset the alarm and it will be fine. Of course, after I pay almost $600 for a fuel pump.

I should have towed the damn thing home.
Click to expand...
 
They told me earlier today that the pump was the problem and it would be like $590. I told them that the pump was most likely not the problem, and that I don't want to pay for parts I don't need. They said that I have to only pay for labor on a mis-diagnosis.
But I know they will say "the pump was bad, and needed to be replaced for further diagnosis".
On the alarm, I had no idea it had one. My keys are just hardware store cut keys too. Not chipped. So will they have to have one made at the dealership using the VIN# or something? Shit, maybe just disconnecting the battery will reset the damn alarm????

It just sucks, because if I just tell them to put it back together and i'm coming to get it, they will probably charge me $300 in labor and sabotage the damn thing. :(
 
Do not pay this bill. Tell them to eat it you did no authorize installing the fuel pump or removing the tank after you previsouly told them you disagreed with their diagnosis. I can help you more but you must force them to release the car and if they refuse call the BAR or Beauro of Automotive Repair Shops. They are a branch of the secratary of state. www.michigan.gov.

I totally agree this does not sound like a fuel pump problem. It sounds like something else entirely but not alarm related. Also you should dispute the bill on the diagnosis. If you need further assistance contact me off board at

248-682-3840

Sean

Exgmguy said:
They told me earlier today that the pump was the problem and it would be like $590. I told them that the pump was most likely not the problem, and that I don't want to pay for parts I don't need. They said that I have to only pay for labor on a mis-diagnosis.
But I know they will say "the pump was bad, and needed to be replaced for further diagnosis".
On the alarm, I had no idea it had one. My keys are just hardware store cut keys too. Not chipped. So will they have to have one made at the dealership using the VIN# or something? Shit, maybe just disconnecting the battery will reset the damn alarm????

It just sucks, because if I just tell them to put it back together and i'm coming to get it, they will probably charge me $300 in labor and sabotage the damn thing. :(
Click to expand...
 
Thanks a lot. Unfortunately I told them to go ahead and do the fuel pump a few hours ago, then I called them back after I did some reading.

The real stinger is when the final bill comes out to be even more than they estimated.
 
Rules of engagement here.

Estimate by Fax,Email etc somehow get a copy and make sure you keep a copy.It can come in handy for disputes. Make sure all addtional work is authorized before seeing it at the final bill.Make sure they call you with additional cost for performing the repairs.

Make sure you get a warranty. Will they warranty the diagnosis as if you make this repairit will correct your problem????

Get some gaunrentees. If they won't guanretee there work/diagnostics go elsewhere.

These are just basic rules to follow. It will seperate the good shops from the bad ones vary quicky.

for the future just so other guys reading this know here is the consumers right from the SOS website.

With electrical components where there is no core make sure to get the old parts espcially if you are unsure the repair will correct the problem. If the dispute goes to the state these old parts are you witness.

Sean

http://www.michigan.gov/documents/sos-197_15930_7.pdf


Exgmguy said:
Thanks a lot. Unfortunately I told them to go ahead and do the fuel pump a few hours ago, then I called them back after I did some reading.

The real stinger is when the final bill comes out to be even more than they estimated.
Click to expand...
 
I am going to get the old pump as well. I asked the guy how he tested the volume and he danced around the answer. I know volume and pressure are two different things, but with almost 40 psi when it fires, AND after it stalls, it should still certainly idle.

thanks again.
 
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