help! replacing wheel hub on 01 silvy

Sean said:
theres no problem in life that can't be cured with a BFH and a smokewrench. Well you'd need some ductape a bit of loctite and a roll of mechanics wire to cover all scenarios.

I just did a set of hubs for a member this weekend. We used serious force to remove them.they were literally rusted in place. after we got them out the bores were so dirty we had to use a grinder to clean them up so the new hubs would go in.

I'd really advise against pushing on the bolts unless you have spares or acess to more of them. Those threads weren't cut for that type of load and it will often destroy them. they can be hard to get at times.
Not to mention if the truck has alot of corrosion. It usually won't work anyway. I'll put it this way. the guy I did the hubs for was surprised at how much force it took to get them out. I was a bit surprised myself. Ussually a couple of well place hits will knock them out. I must have hit the drivers hub on and off for a good half hour. I don't swing a hammer like a sissy either.
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yup exactly what i went through. i hand to grind and sand and clean the spindle as well. i would add a grinder with cutoff wheel to that fix everything scenario, maybe even a breaker bar.

yeah i didnt like the idea of hitting on the bolts either.
 
I've beat the shit out of those bolts with an air hammer and never had a problem messing up the threads. But you do however have to use a mans air hammer and a compressor that can handle it and not one of those sissy ass harbor freight or craftsman ones. And its a Firewrench, I dont know any type of smoke that heats metal :dunno: :D
 
SuperStang90 said:
I've beat the shit out of those bolts with an air hammer and never had a problem messing up the threads. But you do however have to use a mans air hammer and a compressor that can handle it and not one of those sissy ass harbor freight or craftsman ones. And its a Firewrench, I dont know any type of smoke that heats metal :dunno: :D
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I have this air hammer

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...group_ID=19896&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog



58949.JPG


I have 3/4 inch air feeds 1/2 air hoses and this compressor at 190psi.



VT-745-120andVT-755-120.jpg

when the hub is really really stuck. sometimes the bfh is your only friend.
 
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Sean said:
theres no problem in life that can't be cured with a BFH and a smokewrench. Well you'd need some ductape a bit of loctite and a roll of mechanics wire to cover all scenarios.

I just did a set of hubs for a member this weekend. We used serious force to remove them.they were literally rusted in place. after we got them out the bores were so dirty we had to use a grinder to clean them up so the new hubs would go in.

I'd really advise against pushing on the bolts unless you have spares or acess to more of them. Those threads weren't cut for that type of load and it will often destroy them. they can be hard to get at times.
Not to mention if the truck has alot of corrosion. It usually won't work anyway. I'll put it this way. the guy I did the hubs for was surprised at how much force it took to get them out. I was a bit surprised myself. Ussually a couple of well place hits will knock them out. I must have hit the drivers hub on and off for a good half hour. I don't swing a hammer like a sissy either.
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Yeah, I was that member. There's no way I would have gotten the driver's side off without Sean's methods. We basically had to turn the wheel and beat the shit out of it till it came off. His bigass airhammer wasn't touching it at all for the most part. He was wielding a heavy hand sledge and must have hit it 30-40 time's before it started to move. And just like he said, was totally rusted on there. Use Sean's method with the hammer or you'll be there forever. Those bolts that were mentioned are in a very tight space so I'm not sure how you'd get any appreciable force on them anyway. And as for a slide puller: Maybe if the truck was new or maybe 6 months old, but what he went thru to get them off on a 7 yr old truck was ridiculous and my truck has probably seen light duty off roading maybe a dozen times since I bought it new.


BY THE WAY: Thanks again Sean for driving 14 hours in a blizzard, wrecking your van, and helping me out. You're all right by me bro. :bigthumb:
 
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Dr. Teeth said:
Yeah, I was that member. There's no way I would have gotten the driver's side off without Sean's methods. We basically had to turn the wheel and beat the shit out of it till it came off. His bigass airhammer wasn't touching it at all for the most part. He was wielding a heavy hand sledge and must have hit it 30-40 time's before it started to move. And just like he said, was totally rusted on there. Use Sean's method with the hammer or you'll be there forever. Those bolts that were mentioned are in a very tight space so I'm not sure how you'd get any appreciable force on them anyway. And as for a slide puller: Maybe if the truck was new or maybe 6 months old, but what he went thru to get them off on a 7 yr old truck was ridiculous and my truck has probably seen light duty off roading maybe a dozen times since I bought it new.


BY THE WAY: Thanks again Sean for driving 14 hours in a blizzard, wrecking your van, and helping me out. You're all right by me bro. :bigthumb:
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no problem. Looks like state farm is going to pay to fix the van.
 
I had one yesterday stuck on a dodge that a air hammer would not phase.....pin method pushed it out like butter...I tried to take a picture yesterday to show how easy it really is...its effortless...You just need a selection of different length pins.
 
Detroit Gearbox said:
I had one yesterday stuck on a dodge that a air hammer would not phase.....pin method pushed it out like butter...I tried to take a picture yesterday to show how easy it really is...its effortless...You just need a selection of different length pins.
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i would LOVE to see this please. im having a hard time picturing it.
 
hourang said:
i would LOVE to see this please. im having a hard time picturing it.
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I use either a bushing driver or a cross pin out of a rear axle....remove all the wheel bearing bolts and put one in half way, place the pin against the head of the bolt (this is only going to work on one of the bolts-which ever one allows a straight shot to the axle housing end) and the other end against the axle housing (important; different length pins allow you to keep the pin straight) .
You will need to turn the wheel to get the pin in place, get everything centered (this requires 2 people...one on the steering wheel), have the person on the wheel place slight pressure on the wheel, holding the pin in place, remove your hands from the pin, start the vehicle and turn the wheel.
I spray everything down with penetrating oil first.
 
i guess i just cant picture it. i can see you would put the pin against the bolt but not sure where the other end would go against. is this with or without the axle in place?
 
hourang said:
i guess i just cant picture it. i can see you would put the pin against the bolt but not sure where the other end would go against. is this with or without the axle in place?
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The knuckels on the ram are a different shape and design vrs the gm knuckles.
 
Dr. Teeth said:
Admit it-- you were having another one of your little "episodes" in your mind, weren't you...
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the ones where I set the spammer on fire and go Jihad on his ass, oh yeah I was. I fucking hate spammers.Then again I have been in a haze of caffine withdrawl the last few days.
 
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