Garage epoxy floor? 24' pool? 4' semi privacy fence?

red2004

red2004

Forum Member
I am wanting to epoxy my garage floor and am looking for some advice/info from someone that has done this already or someone that actually does this for a full time job.

I have a 2.5 car garage(attached)448 sq ft, my daily driven cars don't get parked in the garage just my mustang which never see's rain or snow so im trying to figure out what kit to get and what would the cost be to have someone install it?

I've heard to stay away from the kits at lowes,hd,etc...


We are looking into quotes for a 24' semi-inground/above ground pool, anyone have a hookup/good company to go through....Went to viscount today and it was 3200+1000 for install for above ground and 6800+2500 for semi-inground.


And last we are looking to fence our yard with a 4' semi privacy fence (roughly 60W x 60D), Any good company's or info?


I appreciate the help,
Lonny
 
I can recomend Red Baron Enterprises, for the fence and even the garage floor. I know the quality of work that they do, although I am not sure on their pricing. I did some land scaping with one of their guys and god was he detailed i mean painfully detailed. Either way, give them a call and see.

313-408-1166
 
To get it done right, a good epoxy will cost you $3-5/sft.........so roughly $1500-$2500 for your 450sft floor.

--Joe
 
I put down the U-coatit epoxy in my dad's barn up north 7 years ago. It was a little pricey, and a pain in the ass to do, but it still looks awesome. He's far from gentle with it. Even the spots where the jackstands were at for 3 years holding up his DeSoto just wiped right up.... no marks at all.

If you're not afraid of doing it yourself a complete kit to do it is about 250 bucks.
 
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I don't have a problem with doing it myself if it can cost around 2000 bucks lol, I looked at the Ucoat it kit last night and it seems like it is an option,

Does anyone sell these kits locally? I would like to support a local guy if I can.
 
red2004 said:
I don't have a problem with doing it myself if it can cost around 2000 bucks lol, I looked at the Ucoat it kit last night and it seems like it is an option,

Does anyone sell these kits locally? I would like to support a local guy if I can.
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They used to have a place right on the east side of Woodward..... can't recall exactly where though.

Actually... looks like they moved. You can still phone in an order and pick it up here though:

UCoat It America, LLC
1797 Atlantic Blvd
Auburn Hills, MI
48326
(800) 826-2848
www.ucoatit.com
 
red2004 said:
I don't have a problem with doing it myself if it can cost around 2000 bucks lol, I looked at the Ucoat it kit last night and it seems like it is an option,

Does anyone sell these kits locally? I would like to support a local guy if I can.
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Epoxy Coat IS local.......they are in Mount Clemens. http://www.epoxy-coat.com

Just be careful with the Epoxy Coat (or any other DIY) kits, yes the price is $300 but the real cost is the prep work. They recommend diamond grinding the floor for best results since acid etching does next to nothing. I suggest you call an equipment rental company to price diamond grinders (and disks).......they are not cheap, and take a good amount of time to do.

I am not trying to turn you off from DIY work, just making sure you know the ins and outs of this project. Good luck.

--Joe
 
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WhiteHawk said:
Wow, that uCoat it stuff looks pretty reasonable in price. Anyone have any bad experiences?

-Geoff
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My whole shop is done with u-coat it products. I highly recommend it. Its held up quite well (8 years old now-daily traffic-highlow-floor jacks.
I did about 5000 sq feet. Ended up spending about a buck a foot.
Google my shop name (Detroit Gearbox)... there are some photos of my flooring on Google and more recent ones on Facebook.
Its faded some now, but I use caustic soap and floor scrubbers to keep it free of grease & oil.
 
I did UcoatIt 5 years ago in my shop area. Clean up nicely, but I have stained it. The basic kit they sell was a water-based epoxy, but the urethane top coat is optional and not included. I wish I went with the top coating, and also spent time levelling my floor. I was in a time crunch in the middle of winter so urethane and good ventilation was not an option at the time.
Spend up on the top coat if you do it.

Regarding grinding, I bought a big mofo Makita 7" grinder, a dust muzzle (dustmuzzle.com) and made up a water trap (aka water bong) out of a shop vac and a 5 gallon bucket. It managed the dust pretty well, but there was still plenty of dust. The diamond cup wheel can be found on eBay for a good price, I got a Dewalt branded one. I did 480 sq-ft with the wheel and there is still plenty of life. Took me about 4 hours of grinding, a couple hours of prepping (acid washed too) and then 2 days for coating. Ucoatit said you didn't need to grind, but I was not sure if the previous owner had put down any water seal before the room was carpeted, so I took the precaution.

The coating has held up well in terms of adhesion, just which I had top coated it for stain resistance. I will be doing my attached garage maybe as soon as this summer, I will grind, etch, crack fill, 2 coat and top coat this time around.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
 
I think I even seen that the Ucoat it kit can be laid even with the floor still being wet....maybe this is the coat I will use, what do you use to seal the cuts that are in my floor from when they lay the concrete....I would like to make the floor have that seamless look
 
beertestr said:
I will grind, etch, crack fill, 2 coat and top coat this time around.
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You would want to fill the cracks last. If you fill the cracks first and then place the epoxy on top, when the joint moves it will push the filler up out of the joint and pop/crack the epoxy.

--Joe
 
I did a 2-part PPG epoxy floor coating about 10 years ago. It was a PITA, but has held up well. From what I am reading here, the U-Coat-it kit is as durable, and less hassle to put down. I did 2 heavy coats on 1440 square feet and it cost me about $500 with ALL materials. Mine was newer concrete that had never been stained. I did the acid etch and powerwash prep and I don't have any lifting or bubbling. The only thing that has marked it was a brake fluid leak on my kid's old truck that I didn't notice. It sat there for about 3 weeks before I saw it. THAT's gonna leave a mark...
 
I used the urethane coating. I did no grinding (my floor was full of stains) but I did power wash it multiple times, filled in all the cracks and as required acid wash to correct the ph level.
 
soap said:
You would want to fill the cracks last. If you fill the cracks first and then place the epoxy on top, when the joint moves it will push the filler up out of the joint and pop/crack the epoxy.

--Joe
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ahh that sucks....makes sense though. I was wanting to put a ford racing vinyl sticker on the floor and before I put the top coat on...that kinda screws me now lol
 
Is there a certain finish I should go for? Floor hasn't been poured yet, so I can probably get anything i need.

-Geoff
 
Maybe rough from what some people are saying that use a grinder on there floors before applying Geoff...I could be wrong though lol
 
Ive done the acid prep for the concrete then the home depot kit.. never again. didnt hold up for more than 3 months. stripping that old crap off was even worse. grind the concrete then have it professionally done or be prepared to spend some time doing a lot of prep work. dont cut corners is my only advice.
 
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