FS: 04 SRT-4 10K-miles Black

CableGuy

Authentic Strummer
Price: 16K Firm

** Car is dirty in the pics, took it to the track last week and my buddy(INSTG8R) had some dirt in the bed of his truck and it collected on the water / dew from the night before. Car is normally not like this, just haven't had time to clean it because I have been working on it for the last few days. (Read below)**


Well its time.... I didn't want to sell this car, but i am just sick of it to be truthful. I am the only owner, never seen snow or salt. A couple of small blemishes on the paint, interior is in almost perfect condition.

Reason I am selling:

Had the motor built earlier this year and just got it together about 2 months ago. Drove it a little and noticed my new head gasket was slightly leaking after doing a high load pull, such as a 4th gear pull on the highway. Come to find out, my engine builder didn't tell me I had to retorque the studs after the first heat cycle. So I retorqued the studs, and it helped it, but didnt fix it 100%.

I knew I needed to change the gasket, but the car was running fine so I wanted to get a couple of runs in, before the fix. I took it to the track, on pump gas (+2 gallons of 110, was at 1/4 tank after 2 runs) and Water-meth running 27lbs and ran a best of 12.29 @ 126mph. I couldn't launch the car and it kept bogging. (Got 4 runs in that day.)

So I ordered a new gasket, and took about 3 days on and off to install it. I did notice a small crack on one of the silicone seals on the gasket but unfortunately rushed and wanted to put the gasket on so I could goto one more track day to try to run in the 11's. Keep in mind that my first gasket didn't "leak" (It would have these little tiny tiny bubbles around the head gasket -- coolant boiling) until about the 100 mile mark. So after the install I start it up to get it to operation temp and then shut it off and check everything. It is already leaking oil (never leaked oil, and never leaked just idling) out of the area where that small crack is on the silicone on the gasket on the front of the head. So needless to say, I think it needs another head gasket. I really don't want to do it so thats why I wanna sell it.

I have to re torque the studs tomorrow and depending on if it possibly fixes it or does nothing or does something I may raise the price. The car runs and drives, has boost you can beat on it I'm sure. But in the state it is now, it is going to seep oil out the front of the head. Again, the retorque may fix this.

If the retorque fixes it, I am going to delete all of the stuff above (because it no longer applies, and the car is in perfect working order) and raise the price to about 18 or 19K.

The paint could use some love. There is a scratch about 1.5-2"'s long on the drivers side at the corner of the hood where it meet the wind shield. I was taking the hood off and the corner of the hood scratched the fender. I have a pic below. It could also use a good wax because this car is black and shows every little scuff / swirl mark.

Car ran (Have time slip) 12.2x @ 126mph with a 2.1x 60ft last week. I ran 118.x mph with 420whp 2 years ago, I would say it is around 500whp now.

A 2004 SRT-4 with 500whp, has A/C, has P/S, has a full interior, not cut up with a cage. Just TICKED 10000 MILES last week! Car has never seen salt or snow, and rain only a few times. I see some modified SRTs that have 40K miles asking 17.5K. WOW! This just needs a few hours of work and you would have a trouble free 500whp daily driver.

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Small stain on drivers front seat.
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Scratch on drivers side near wind shield.
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I have a full modification list if you are truly interested. Its pretty depressing adding it all up.

If I cant sell it like this, I will prob part it all out and just buy a new long block and throw it in the car and sell it that way. ( I gotta see what the retorque does.)
 
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Thanks guys, but unless someone wants to O-ring the head or block and reinstall a copper head gasket for me, I want it gone. I am done working on it. I bought a house last year and want to finish it, and with this car being in the garage, its taking up my time and money.
 
Thanks guys, but unless someone wants to O-ring the head or block and reinstall a copper head gasket for me, I want it gone. I am done working on it. I bought a house last year and want to finish it, and with this car being in the garage, its taking up my time and money.

Who the hell told you that you need to o-ring the block!??!?!
 
Who the hell told you that you need to o-ring the block!??!?!


The block is .040 over... there are no MLS gaskets for our cars that are .040 over.

That leaves one gasket which I haven't had good luck with.

SCE Titan ICS -

1st one didnt re torque and it leaked pretty bad after like 1.5K miles
2nd one was the one I went 126 on with 27-28lbs of boost
3rd one is the one that is on currently.

I'm sure the 4th one would be the charm if the silicone was all 100% good (like the 1st and 2nd were), and a retorque happened after 1 full heat cycle.

Other than that, a Full copper gasket with O-rings in the head or block is the only other gasket that *I* know of for my car.
 
The block is .040 over... there are no MLS gaskets for our cars that are .040 over.

That leaves one gasket which I haven't had good luck with.

SCE Titan ICS -

1st one didnt re torque and it leaked pretty bad after like 1.5K miles
2nd one was the one I went 126 on with 27-28lbs of boost
3rd one is the one that is on currently.

I'm sure the 4th one would be the charm if the silicone was all 100% good (like the 1st and 2nd were), and a retorque happened after 1 full heat cycle.

Other than that, a Full copper gasket with O-rings in the head or block is the only other gasket that *I* know of for my car.

I know this is a long shot and prolly already done... You have the head checked?
 
I know this is a long shot and prolly already done... You have the head checked?

Yep checked when the motor was built.

Remember, the last step in the instructions is retorque after the first heat cycle.

None of the gaskets were ever re torqued.

-The first and second ones didnt show any signs of leakage until about 100-200 miles.
-The second one was re-torqued after ~ 300 miles. It helped, but didnt fix it (Some parts of the silicone were already washed away.)
-The third one leaked near the area with the crack silicone on the first heat cycle at idle. I will re torque it later today.

-If the 2nd one would have been properly torqued the 2nd time, I wouldnt be typing this right now.
 
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Fix it and then try selling it...I bet you'd have a much easier time.

I know where you're coming from though. I got too deep into the solstice and every week something new happened and it just drained on me, financially and mentally. Just couldn't handle it anymore so I traded out of it after doing one final round of fixes to everything I kept putting off.
 
Yep checked when the motor was built.

Remember, the last step in the instructions is retorque after the first heat cycle.

None of the gaskets were ever re torqued.

-The first and second ones didnt show any signs of leakage until about 100-200 miles.
-The second one was re-torqued after ~ 300 miles. It helped, but didnt fix it (Some parts of the silicone were already washed away.)
-The third one leaked near the area with the crack silicone on the first heat cycle at idle. I will re torque it later today.

-If the 2nd one would have been properly torqued the 2nd time, I wouldnt be typing this right now.


So get another one... Do it right and enjoy the car... Don't get rid of it... You will be kicking yourself down the road...
 
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