Flywheel Resurface

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00PewterSS

New member
Does someone know a shop that can resurface my flywheel. I work in Warren and Live in Howell, it seems there would be someplace in between I could go. It is a Camaro LS1 flywheel.

Thanks,
Brian
 
Thanks, yeah I know, I'm hoping very little needs to be removed. I had my clutch fuse to it, so there is some friction material stuck to it. I have an adjustable master so I'm hoping that will help things.

Brian
 
It was a Spec 3 clutch. I blame it on the shitty shim they have you put under the master. My master bolts fell out (they were loctited) and got pulverized to dust, I think the dust got in the friction material causing it the clutch to fuse to the flywheel. I thought my hydraulics were gone at first, had to tear it down before I found out it was stuck. Right now I'm debating between putting a used Cartek in or buying another Spec 3. My Spec never gave me any issues, other than chatter.

Thanks I'll check out clutchmasters.

Brian
 
the slave bolts fell out? i won't use the shim with a new flywheel. resurfaceed probably will need it. the adjustable master doesn't do anything for improper slave to clutch distances
 
Yeah sucks eh... Spec recommended/required use of this rubbery shim to get proper engagement/pedal height. The torque on those bolts is pretty low so the slave doesn't cradk, add in the crappy shim and yeah they both fell out. Inside of my bell housing doesn't look so great.

I don't think cleaning up my flywheel will cause much difference in the slave distance, just enough that I may need to adjust the master to get the padal height correct.

I may make an aluminum shim to put under the slave.
 
dave89iroc said:
no one ever uses those shims from spec, seems everyone has trouble with them
Click to expand...
haha you should see the PM's that they used to sent me on ls1tech.
They didn't like it when I started saying not to install them.
if you install them they usually start slipping at around 3000 miles
 
Problem with ls1tech is, someone says use it, some say don't and I can't tell who knows what they are talking about. If they gave a quality shim maybe it wouldn't be a problem. I never had any slippage, actually clutch wear and performance were always very good after 10k miles. If the damn bolts hadn't fallen out I would be fine. It fused on a clutch dump at Milan... had to drive it home without being able to disengage.

I still can't decide on putting the used Cartek in or go with another Spec 3.

What is at 21 and VanDyke?
 
I imagine that would be the right thing to do. But I have no clue what the correct measurement would be. I have access to the service manual and it gives no reference to this measurement either. Any chance you know what it should be?

Thanks!
 
with the clutch installed measure from the block to the pressure plate fingers. then remove the spring from the slave/throwout and measure from the bellhousing to the throwout while the slave is compressed
the second should be 1/16-1/8in less than the first
 
Thanks guys... I called Best and Clutchmasters and since Clutchmasters is closer for me and $10 less I went there. I asked him how much he removed and he said, you should have asked to have it measured before hand.. DOH.

I'll try measuring it the way you mentioned and see if I need a shim now.
 
00PewterSS said:
Thanks guys... I called Best and Clutchmasters and since Clutchmasters is closer for me and $10 less I went there. I asked him how much he removed and he said, you should have asked to have it measured before hand.. DOH.

I'll try measuring it the way you mentioned and see if I need a shim now.
Click to expand...


Although they sell flywheel shims to "make up" the distance that was removed from the flywheel, I have never ever had to use one. Most flywheels can be cleaned up with under .020 being ground off. .040-.050 in ones that are really bad. That means your moving the fingers of the pressure plate .050 of a inch away from the throwout bearing. Since most throw out bearings/slave cly move 1.50"-2" moving the fingers .050 makes "0" difference.
As a clutch disc wears, the fingers rise, quite a bit.
Some aftermarket clutch assy's change the finger heights, requiring moving the slave cly one way or the other (longer pin sometimes)

99.9% of clutch installers are not going to ask how much was cut off the flywheel because 99% of the time it makes no difference. I measure the warpage with a straight edge and feeler gauges before I take them in to be ground. Clutch masters does a nice job in resurfacing. They sand blast and clean all surfaces for flatness before they check them up.
 
I have another stock flywheel that has not been resurfaced. I compared them and it looks like he took 0.030 off from what I can tell. That is only 1/32" so yeah I can see that would make no difference. I'm still going to measure, not because of that but because I don't know if the clutch I'm putting in may help to have a shim.

I think I'm putting a used Cartek in that I believe started with 0.350 thickness disc and is now 0.310 and looks quite good.

Clutchmasters did a fine job and quickly, he didn't need to sandblast, I didn't even have rust on my flywheel.
 
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