dual stage nos ????????????

camaromann said:
Any body have any advice on what type of plugs to use when spraying over a 150 shot? When would i need a non-projected tip spark plug? Im assuming that you are using that type of plug jq, and anyone else who heavily sprays their motors. thanks.
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i always use a non projected tip plug. i have used ngk 9s on some motors but only when i cant get 10s. it depends alot of the gas, timing, comp stuff like that.
 
johnquick302 said:
i always use a non projected tip plug. i have used ngk 9s on some motors but only when i cant get 10s. it depends alot of the gas, timing, comp stuff like that.
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I have about 10.7:1 comp. pump gas. for some reason it loves about 40 degrees total time. When i spray it gets 110 octane and the time bumped back a little. The plugs i use are ngk's and are 5's. They are 1 heat range colder then stock and i dont ever spray over 100hp with them. I am looking to use a 250hp shot with a controller. I was told if i run a non projected tip plug i wont be able to street drive it hardly and my motor passes would suffer greatly.
 
camaromann said:
I have about 10.7:1 comp. pump gas. for some reason it loves about 40 degrees total time. When i spray it gets 110 octane and the time bumped back a little. The plugs i use are ngk's and are 5's. They are 1 heat range colder then stock and i dont ever spray over 100hp with them. I am looking to use a 250hp shot with a controller. I was told if i run a non projected tip plug i wont be able to street drive it hardly and my motor passes would suffer greatly.
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i run 10s all day in my car. they do load up pretty easy if the carb is not right. i had a difference carb on my car before and i went all year without changing plugs. with the carb i have now i foul them all the time. i didnt lose much with this plug i actually gained a tenth over a hot autolite plug to a cold ngk plug.
 
johnquick302 said:
i run 10s all day in my car. they do load up pretty easy if the carb is not right. i had a difference carb on my car before and i went all year without changing plugs. with the carb i have now i foul them all the time. i didnt lose much with this plug i actually gained a tenth over a hot autolite plug to a cold ngk plug.
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why you dogging the carb i sold you?! lol....too much for your little more...jk :alcoholic
 
allthrottle said:
why you dogging the carb i sold you?! lol....too much for your little more...jk :alcoholic
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i dont know what it is with this carb i could never get it to idle right without adding too much fuel and it would foul a plug. i probably had a bunch of lil vaccum leaks from all the fogger nozzles or something.
 
johnquick302 said:
i run 10s all day in my car. they do load up pretty easy if the carb is not right. i had a difference carb on my car before and i went all year without changing plugs. with the carb i have now i foul them all the time. i didnt lose much with this plug i actually gained a tenth over a hot autolite plug to a cold ngk plug.
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Well thats good to hear from someone who is actually out their using them on the street. I had carb issues all year...the issue turned out to be me..lol
 
40 degrees of timing your beating the shit out of your bearings and pistons. No motor should run with that much timing in it.
 
388Monte said:
40 degrees of timing your beating the shit out of your bearings and pistons. No motor should run with that much timing in it.
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Thats what i thought too. After talking to a lot of people racing small chevy's, a lot of them told me that their motors are locked out at 40-42 and have had no issues in 2-3 years. They said it was due to the chamber of the head wanting the motor to fire late so they would bump up the timing more. And why is it beating the shit out of the pistons and more specifically the bearings?
 
camaromann said:
Thats what i thought too. After talking to a lot of people racing small chevy's, a lot of them told me that their motors are locked out at 40-42 and have had no issues in 2-3 years. They said it was due to the chamber of the head wanting the motor to fire late so they would bump up the timing more. And why is it beating the shit out of the pistons and more specifically the bearings?
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detonation beats up the pistons and bearings. and too much timing will lead to detonation.
 
Just remember on a digital 6 you are limited to 9 degrees of timing that you can retard, so that alone you wont be able to hit it with 2 kits
 
fogged10 said:
i'm lost what are dots?
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it graphs the rpm rate and if it spikes it means it spinning the tires, so it pulls timing out to kill power so it dont spin anymore, that is why drag radial cars are so fast. but with nitrous if you pull too much timing it will hurt the motor.
 
i have the 7531 box but have never tried that option yet. it works good for all the retards and limiters for everything. the box is really trick you can pull timing out of each cyl independtly, has every function you can think of with lauch rpm, burnout, max rpm limiter. 3 stages of retards for nitrous, adj start retard. different shift light in each gear, has a logger that can replay the run and see max rpms, converter flash, timing, everything. its a badass box. its expensive but if you can learn it it will def help you in the long run.
 
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