Dual Fan vs. Single Fan?

Surface area really. A single in a properly built shroud that pulls good CFM can work just as well as duals. That being said i had 2 11" on my car, one for when it was just cruising and turned on the second one when in traffic. CFM rating is very important though. Cheaper fans don't move the air so you don't get proper cooling. Maybe i'm off base with my answer, what exactly are you loooking for? what's the issue?

Also don't overlook issues that might be being caused by an inefficient cooling system (type of rad, water pump, possibly blockages with improperly installed gaskets...etc.)
 
Car right now has an aluminum radiator with a single fan, no shroud, which is constantly ran when the car is started. Electric water pump, etc. The car doesn't exactly overheat, but it will shoot up to 220* after a 1/4 mile pass. Which then it needs to be shut down to cool.
 
FSTSOHC said:
Car right now has an aluminum radiator with a single fan, no shroud, which is constantly ran when the car is started. Electric water pump, etc. The car doesn't exactly overheat, but it will shoot up to 220* after a 1/4 mile pass. Which then it needs to be shut down to cool.
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sounds like you have a problem for sure,i would do a flush,check thermostat,check you cap might need a higher pressure cap,check your coolant mix also.my capri with mild built ls1 had stock f body radiator with dual fans and never got past 180* and I street drove it hard
 
mikesfastss said:
sounds like you have a problem for sure,i would do a flush,check thermostat,check you cap might need a higher pressure cap,check your coolant mix also.my capri with mild built ls1 had stock f body radiator with dual fans and never got past 180* and I street drove it hard
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I'll do the flush after winter, but from what I can tell is it had straight water with some kind of purple water wetter in it. Should I run a restrictor or a thermostat?
 
160 thermostat for sure,make sure you ratio is right with coolant 50/50 also check your gauge it could be bad or off a few degrees.my car also had a mechanical water pump
 
Billydroveit said:
That being said i had 2 11" on my car, one for when it was just cruising and turned on the second one when in traffic.
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You shouldn't have to run a fan at all while cruising. The radiator gets enough airflow across it..........unless you have a remote mounted radiator in an odd location.

--Joe
 
You also need to consider amp draw. Some cars only have a 100 amp alternator total at high rpm so watch out for fans that draw too much when you are sitting at an idle. Some single fans have more CFM than duals. Gotta shop them.
 
soap said:
You shouldn't have to run a fan at all while cruising. The radiator gets enough airflow across it..........unless you have a remote mounted radiator in an odd location.

--Joe
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Usually i didn't but with two fans not running on that much surfac area of the rad sometimes it got a little warm (air tumble instead of flow through), by that i mean 190+.

If it's a track duty car use WATER and water wetter. My car ran straight water without watter wetter and never overheated. with an electric water pump i would run a restrictor plate, or a thermostat with a few holes drilled in the plate for constant flow. Is this a turbo application? If you have a bunch of rust scale built up inside the cooling passages of the block it will also cause issue. Timing will also cause you some heat issues if say you have the timing set back for nitrous or other adders. It's not uncommon for a motor making decent power to have to be shut down to cool after a pass. What size fan and what CFM rating is it. I know alot of guys who use the Proform mustang specific fan with very good luck, but it pulls over 2000CFM if i recall correctly. If you have a 16" fan only pulling 1000 CFM that could be alot of your issues. But you need to check the whole system over very well like everyone is saying to figure out what's going on. And the CAP is very important. Should be min of 16lbs. You can check if it's working properly with a rad pressure tester and the correct adapter.
 
Right now, if I drive the car say 8 miles, with the fan on and waterpump full time, it'll get to about 220* and I'll have to shut it down. Gauge is an autometer, it's not a stock cluster. Also it's not a turbo set-up, just an N/A build. There is currently no restrictor or thermostat in the car either.
 
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FSTSOHC said:
Right now, if I drive the car say 8 miles, with the fan on and waterpump full time, it'll get to about 220* and I'll have to shut it down. Gauge is an autometer, it's not a stock cluster. Also it's not a turbo set-up, just an N/A build. There is currently no restrictor or thermostat in the car either.
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Problem solved.....put a thermostat back in it. I dont know anyone on the street that has any luck running without one. If you have to much flow the coolant never gets a chance to cool.
 
Try a restrictor, although some engineers will tell you it woulnd'tmake a difference. I would start at the cap not holding pressure. Was it a fesh build, cleaned block? How radical is the set up?
 
smoked72 said:
Problem solved.....put a thermostat back in it. I dont know anyone on the street that has any luck running without one. If you have to much flow the coolant never gets a chance to cool.
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X2

The fluid does not stay in the radiator long enough to get the heat pulled out of it. Put in a thermostat and your problem is solved.

--Joe
 
i think a lot of the problem u might have joe is that there isnt enough air flow with that bumper design and only being able to bring a little bit in through the small grille.. however having no thermostat is not going to help either
 
kammi10 said:
i think a lot of the problem u might have joe is that there isnt enough air flow with that bumper design and only being able to bring a little bit in through the small grille.. however having no thermostat is not going to help either
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I know thats one of my problems lol. But, thats not the biggest problem. I might run some ducts up there to the radiator as well if this other crap doesn't work.
 
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