Cranks, weight-vs-cost

uwntsumrtII

uwntsumrtII

Club Member
Is 9lbs really worth $300?

K1 Technologies has a forged stroker crank that's 63lbs. Found one for $690.

Scat has a lightweight one that's 52lbs. Found one for $1000.
 
It depends on what you want to do with it. If you are racing a heavy truck, then it isn't worth it. If you are going with something pretty lightweight, then it is worth it. Your engine will rev much more quickly with a lighter weight crankshaft........Remember that it is rotating weight you are reducing, not static weight. And, it takes more to slow down...Ford 351 Crankshafts weigh more than Chev pieces due to the larger main and pin journals.

I have a 45# K1 crank in my race car and they are very nice pieces. K1 also makes lightweight rods......


Gary
 
Last edited:
More than likely it will be for the truck in my sig. Its at 3850lbs right now. I think i can get it down to 3600. Ill probably be reving it to 6800rmps. This is why i was curious about the lighter crank.
 
If its for a power-adder application that's going to make big power, I'd go with the heavier crank, personally.
 
uwntsumrtII said:
More than likely it will be for the truck in my sig. Its at 3850lbs right now. I think i can get it down to 3600. Ill probably be reving it to 6800rmps. This is why i was curious about the lighter crank.
Click to expand...

You gonna turbo amber or the white one?

Back kinda OT, do you know what the mopar crank weighs in at?
 
Foolsgold80z said:
Why?
Click to expand...

Balancing can get very exspensive and difficult. Thats a good reason right there. It depends on where the wieght is mostly. Crank checks and areas around the journals or between them. wieght is actually not a bad thing is your picking up center counter wieghting for more main centerline stability.

Really selecting the right crank is totally application driven. A NA motor crank is always going to be different from a turbo motor or blower crank. Uusually its best to talk with manufacturers and ask them where they aling there products for useage.
 
Kryp2nitE said:
You gonna turbo amber or the white one?

Back kinda OT, do you know what the mopar crank weighs in at?
Click to expand...

Im leaning toward the white one. Make it mainly for race with limited street use. Turbo... mmmmmm,boost.

Im pretty sure that Eagle supplies the cranks for Mopar. And those weigh in at 63lbs.
 
Last edited:
Sean said:
Balancing can get very exspensive and difficult. Thats a good reason right there. It depends on where the wieght is mostly. Crank checks and areas around the journals or between them. wieght is actually not a bad thing is your picking up center counter wieghting for more main centerline stability.

Really selecting the right crank is totally application driven. A NA motor crank is always going to be different from a turbo motor or blower crank. Uusually its best to talk with manufacturers and ask them where they aling there products for useage.
Click to expand...

It will be n/a for next season and wind up with a turbo later next year.
 
then buy a crank for a turbo motor and turbo pistons and turbo capable rods. build the low end now. Even if you freshen it next year better to buy parts once rather then twice.
 
It depends on where the weight is at and what reciprocating parts you're going to put in it. Sure would suck if you had to add a bunch of tungsten to it...
 
wrath said:
It depends on where the weight is at and what reciprocating parts you're going to put in it. Sure would suck if you had to add a bunch of tungsten to it...
Click to expand...

I know there all kinds of variables. Im in the research phase of things right now. I don't know a lot about boosted applications. That why im asking for some input.


Thanks everyone, and keep it coming.
 
As it stands right now, i have a 360 Magnum block that's .030 over. My plans are to reuse the Scat h-heams with the new crank. I have 10.0/1 forged pistions in it right now. I know ill need to swap them out as well. These blocks aren't the strongest out there so a hard fill in in the plans as well. Not many options for heads, but they will be aluminum. Unless iron heads would be better suited? Cam specs are yet to be determined. I have up to .600" lift to work with.
 
uwntsumrtII said:
As it stands right now, i have a 360 Magnum block that's .030 over. My plans are to reuse the Scat h-heams with the new crank. I have 10.0/1 forged pistions in it right now. I know ill need to swap them out as well. These blocks aren't the strongest out there so a hard fill in in the plans as well. Not many options for heads, but they will be aluminum. Unless iron heads would be better suited? Cam specs are yet to be determined. I have up to .600" lift to work with.
Click to expand...



build a earlier block. One of the biggest problems with the late model magnum blocks is the lifter bores aren't well supported and prone ot breaking off at high rpm.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top