*** Coupe update ***

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I am bored out of my mind right now so I figured I would give an update to those that care.

Over the winter we found a bunch of broken parts again and because of that we have an entirely new driveline. Here's what the car will have now:



Clutch: Spec Stage II / Stage III+ hybrid with aluminum pressure plate (~6 lbs lighter)



Transmission:

-TKO 600 (same case)
-Cryo-treated and Mikronited gears
-7 lug face-plate engagement
-Bronze fork pads
-Threaded cluster bearing support cap.



Rear end:

-New axles (Strange Pro Race, gun drilled and lightened flange)
-New spool (Strange ultra light )
-4.56 gears (Cryo'd and Mikronited)
-Housing straighten and braced

Brakes:

-Strange pro series drag front and rear (rear is what we added)


Tires:

-Fresh 28x10.5 ET drags (same as before but new)
-New MT ET fronts (ran a 165 radial before)


If all goes well, it will be back together and running before the weekend.
 
One of the reasons I gave up on a stick shift car. They tend to break a lot of stuff, they sure are fun though!
 
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One of the reasons I gave up on a stick shit car. They tend to break a lot of stuff, they sure are fun though!

Yeah, they do, but hopefully with all this "special" shit done to the trans and rear-end, the stuff will live. The only thing that concerns me at all is the ring and pinion. The next step is a pro-gear and that means going to a 9 inch and that will suck.
 
I thought you sold the engine?

Nope, I was thinking of selling it to build this "badass, kill all" mod motor, but when my buddy calls me a informs me that the short block alone is going to cost me $10,200 and the heads would be an additional $7500, I said phuck it. Don't get me wrong 9000+ RPM would be cool, but not at that cost. I made the decision up front that if my trans and rear-end were done before I could sell the engine, I would just put it back together and enjoy beating the snot out of it again for this year.
 
Sweet, cant wait to see the vids with the drivetrain correct!!


Yeah, definately curious as to how it will run. We removed approximately ~20 lbs of rotating mass from the driveline and the brakes not having a 10 lb residual valve on them should help a bit too, so with all the little odds and ends it should equate to some extra MPH and should accelerate quicker. So if this is the case it should run quite a bit better, but if not and it doesn't want more rpm out the back it will likely be slower. If this is the case I'll just drop the tire height down and make up for the drop in gearing that way.
 
Cool. I love your wheel standing stick car. :thumbsup:


The stick will stay until I decide to make the step up to a power-adder application. Hell, if I can gather up the money we'll be building a 430+ inch windsor with either my current AFR205's and shoot for mid 9's on motor with the stick OR my buddy has a set of yates C3's that would fit nicely on top of the big windsor and if that happens we are going to be looking at Very low 9's or high 8's on motor. But what happens over this winter will determine that one. Wonder if the 5 speed can take that kind of hit :icon_wink
 
The stick will stay until I decide to make the step up to a power-adder application. Hell, if I can gather up the money we'll be building a 430+ inch windsor with either my current AFR205's and shoot for mid 9's on motor with the stick OR my buddy has a set of yates C3's that would fit nicely on top of the big windsor and if that happens we are going to be looking at Very low 9's or high 8's on motor. But what happens over this winter will determine that one. Wonder if the 5 speed can take that kind of hit :icon_wink

There's an intake for that combo for sale on the detroitracing.com board, for a windsor with C3 heads.
 
M9424-W351 351 intake manifold.

INTAKE MANIFOLD
351 engine block 9.200 deck height
Ford Racing.

Yates NASCAR cylinder heads, Carburetor pad 7.97, single plane, no valley tray, cut for Yates C3L head proven short track performer.

$175
__________________
 
explain the clutch... im assuming you have 2 different discs for street (stage 2) and strip (stage 3+)? how do you like the stage 2?

or do you have a stage 2 PP and 3+ disc?
 
explain the clutch... im assuming you have 2 different discs for street (stage 2) and strip (stage 3+)? how do you like the stage 2?

or do you have a stage 2 PP and 3+ disc?


It has the Stage 2 friction material on the flywheel side and the stage III+ friction material on the pressure plate side. It simulates as full disc on one side and a paddle type on the other as well. The pressure plate is a lightened stamped steel housing with an aluminum pressure plate disc inside with a steel insert on the face. This is purely for a race application. There are a multitude of reasons for this clutch design but the lightened pressure plate offers the same benefits of an aluminum flywheel, so it should recover very quickly between shifts.
 
Badass car! I love that it's fast and it's an all motor stick car! Oh, and it launches like a mofo!
 
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