cant use a stat with this style water outlet.
AHHHH i see. i just googled that vacufill and thats what came up.
Anthony, I have one if you need to use it. Snap on model....Hook up to neck and shop air. Creates venture effect and pulls vacuum on the system....one vacuum is stopped climbing you open the valve and it pulls the water / coolant into the system.
Ok now GO BUUY ONE! It makes life simple...never worry about air pockets again.
Not to mention if you plan on maintaining the vehicles you have it's the only way to do coolant fills..
yea u have to have a thermostat start out with a 160 if it runs 180 185 thats good u always only want a 20 perc increase of what the stat is and is ur pump a 55 or a 35 gpm
how it is plumbed in is not quite as important as making sure there is a bleed line(5/16 or 3/8 line is usually used) from the highest point in the system to itany chance you will be at NMRA this weekend?
i will, but no air at the new house. so i might borrow one.
"have to" is strong wording. it can be done without a stat. i know because my last set up didnt use a stat.
i wanna get a purge tank in there too. a friend will make me a custom sheetmetal one for free. but im not sure how i should plumb it in, which will make a difference in how its shaped, depending on where it goes. i have heard
a couple different ways to plumb it in. what do pwradder and billybooth recomend?
it ran 200 yesterday going to meet up with a few guys, ordered a CSR neck from livernois today. ill put a 160 in it and see.
reading how to plumb in the purge tank is confusing to me. i read a thread that homer posted on yb only to stare at it and still cant put it together in my head.
the rad has a little button you push on the opposite side of the inlet and outlet ( they are both on drivers side. double pass rad ) there is no radiator neck or cap on the radiator. i have a radiator neck/cap inline with the upper rad hose.
so what i think i need to do, correct me cause i am probably confused!
run a line from the water neck ( -4?-6? ) to a spot on the tank, near the top. which isnt the highest point. the existing cap is. water pump is electric and under the front bumper.
and i would need another line to the can from somewhere else correct? what size? -4? -6?
i see that homer ran -10
YOu just stepped outta my league...i'm clueless as to the where/how to plumb the degas bottle. What intake do you have? let's assume Victor. Drill and tap and install a cross over in the rear of the intake where the water ports mate up to teh head Edelbrock has them blocked. We did it on Seans old yellow bucket and it helped temp alot. May even be able to put a T in there and use that as your line to the degas bottle?
I Still have the intake i can get pics if you wanna see...
that would be an option, would i use that and the water neck line and be done? gotta pull the intake anyway, new lifters and jesel rockers need to be installed
:spend:
that would be an option, would i use that and the water neck line and be done? gotta pull the intake anyway, new lifters and jesel rockers need to be installed
low buck chuck over here! 50% of everything on this car is used.
low buck chuck over here! 50% of everything on this car is used.
a engine with to much fuel and timming will run hot.
I always thought too rich and laid back timing would cause the heat!?
a engine with to much fuel and timming will run hot.
I have the overflow line ran to the top of the water tank in the trunk. What if I move it to the bottom? Then it would be a recirculating can. Right?