Ceramic coating Hotside parts on turbo system

SuperStang90

Club Member
Is it necessary to get the 2000 degree coating on the hotside parts or would the standard 1300 degree coating hold up....?
 
I went with the 2000 degree coating because the other stuff that I had (not really sure what it was) was coming off. Kind of narrows down the color choices but I personally was looking more for longevity and heat protection. Talk to whoever is doing the coating and ask them what they think.
 
EGT on a gasoline engine under boost can be more then 1300 F* at times. I would go with the ultra high temp coating.
 
Sean..... some of the higher performance stuff can get in the 1800 deg range , and still be safe.

We saw 1500 deg on a regular basis on the eco-boost.
 
Is it necessary to get the 2000 degree coating on the hotside parts or would the standard 1300 degree coating hold up....?

What is your goal? PRetty looking turbo or thermal protection? I'll tell you right now, commercially available thermal coatings are a joke.

If you are doing it for pretty, go with the 2000 degree so it stays pretty. If you are doing it for anything else, don't waste your money.
 
What is your goal? PRetty looking turbo or thermal protection? I'll tell you right now, commercially available thermal coatings are a joke.

If you are doing it for pretty, go with the 2000 degree so it stays pretty. If you are doing it for anything else, don't waste your money.

Well I want to do it to keep the headers and crossover from turning into rust, and I though the coatings were supposed to be a thermal barrier reducing underhood temps and allowing the exhaust to travel at a higher velocity. I know your supposed to coat the inside and outside of the parts for the best efficiency. I was actually going to do the coating myself, I know someone with all the equipment I just need to buy the ceramic coating itself
 
Well I want to do it to keep the headers and crossover from turning into rust, and I though the coatings were supposed to be a thermal barrier reducing underhood temps and allowing the exhaust to travel at a higher velocity. I know your supposed to coat the inside and outside of the parts for the best efficiency. I was actually going to do the coating myself, I know someone with all the equipment I just need to buy the ceramic coating itself

You will not notice any drop in UH temps, any of the commercially available coatings out there have no real effect on reducing radiation. Flow improvements will only help if you do the inside obviously, but the other problem is delamination of the coating, especially upstream of the turbo. The coating typically erodes over time, but sometimes if the prep is not right, it'll peel off in chunks. I have not heard of the chunks ever taking out a turbo blade, but it's still not a good thing.

Dunno about anybody else, but I have seen lots of rusty ceramic coated pipes out there. There definitely is a wide variation in the corrosion resistance capabilities of the coatings out there. The coatings should work well, I do not know if they fail from the coatings being too thin, micro-cracking/checking of the coating that opens the tubing up to the elements or ??, but those $300 shiny coatings definitely are not all equal.

I have a coworker do his graduate engineering thesis on thermal coatings, took lots of performance data, concluded that pretty much, the really hi-end coatings that are used in military/aerospace actually have some thermal benefit, and are ungodly expensive.... like only your tax dollars can afford it :)...

FWIW, heat shielding is immensely more effective, but not that pretty to look at. Search MM[edit: PM jspec he has some heat shield material] , there is a guy out there that sells this stuff locally by the sheet. 3mm aluminum clad krinkle (can't remember the right name) material is easy to cut, form and lightweight. Run the heat shield at least 3/8" off the heat source, and it'll do wonders for UH temps. Becareful though, as you still want a little airflow between the heat shield and the pipes, or you'll over heat the pipes. If you make the heat shields well enough, they can be somewhat attractive... well shiny at least :)..
 
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You will not notice any drop in UH temps, any of the commercially available coatings out there have no real effect on reducing radiation. Flow improvements will only help if you do the inside obviously, but the other problem is delamination of the coating, especially upstream of the turbo. The coating typically erodes over time, but sometimes if the prep is not right, it'll peel off in chunks. I have not heard of the chunks ever taking out a turbo blade, but it's still not a good thing.

Dunno about anybody else, but I have seen lots of rusty ceramic coated pipes out there. There definitely is a wide variation in the corrosion resistance capabilities of the coatings out there. The coatings should work well, I do not know if they fail from the coatings being too thin, micro-cracking/checking of the coating that opens the tubing up to the elements or ??, but those $300 shiny coatings definitely are not all equal.

I have a coworker do his graduate engineering thesis on thermal coatings, took lots of performance data, concluded that pretty much, the really hi-end coatings that are used in military/aerospace actually have some thermal benefit, and are ungodly expensive.... like only your tax dollars can afford it :)...

FWIW, heat shielding is immensely more effective, but not that pretty to look at. Search MM[edit: PM jspec he has some heat shield material] , there is a guy out there that sells this stuff locally by the sheet. 3mm aluminum clad krinkle (can't remember the right name) material is easy to cut, form and lightweight. Run the heat shield at least 3/8" off the heat source, and it'll do wonders for UH temps. Becareful though, as you still want a little airflow between the heat shield and the pipes, or you'll over heat the pipes. If you make the heat shields well enough, they can be somewhat attractive... well shiny at least :)..

Thanks for the info. +1
 
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