Car won't start - 87 Mustang

NVR2FST

NVR2FST

Forum Member
Ok, I thought the problem was the clutch interlock switch and it still could be I guess, but it didn't make a difference when I attempted to bypass it (just quickly bridged the connections). The car started just fine when it came apart four years ago. Put in a new motor, switched from a T5 to a TKO etc., but didn't mess with the ignition at all. The solenoid has power and will start with a screw driver up there and the key in the "on" position, then shut off with the key. Key on seems to power everything up, but won't hit the solenoid to start. The clutch switch does not have continuity either.

Any ideas? I'm pretty tapped working on this thing lately and am really frustrated that this is the last and only hang up. For months I've been telling my son I'd have it together so we could go for a ride on his 5th b-day. which is Sunday, so any help is appreciated.
 
No, for some reason there is not. There are two plugs into the top of the clutch pedal, one has continuity and the other does not - even with the "plunger" in the "on" or "active" position.
 
we just had to do this to my buddies car, we had to make a jumper wire from the colum to the wire that goes to the solinoid (its one of the wires thats runs to the clutch switch). and you can find which wire is the crank wire from the colum with a test light. my buddy had it done in like 5mins.
 
Mark,

It sounds like you already have it covered (at the netrual safety switch side).

But if that doesn't work. Check the wires at the solenoid, I had a similar issue about ten years ago with Aarons car. I would confirm they are all back where they belong.
 
Check all your plugs down on your driver side kick panel if u possibly unpluged them during the rebuild.might look plugged in but check every one good.my buddy just had his car painted the guy removed the doors and unpluged all of the plugs car would not start.
 
Thanks for the responses guys.

I had checked all the panel fuses and connectors at the kick panel already, but no luck.

Dan - I hadn't pulled anything off the solenoid, but had done a quick visual when I first had the issue. Maybe I'll poke around in the fender well again just to make sure.

John - I think I might end up doing it this way, if nothing else it will isolate/ confirm that this is in fact the issue.
 
NVR2FST said:
Thanks for the responses guys.

I had checked all the panel fuses and connectors at the kick panel already, but no luck.

Dan - I hadn't pulled anything off the solenoid, but had done a quick visual when I first had the issue. Maybe I'll poke around in the fender well again just to make sure.

John - I think I might end up doing it this way, if nothing else it will isolate/ confirm that this is in fact the issue.
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maybe the little rod in the colum is just wore out and wont send the signal to the solenoid?? same thing happend to my car so i just added a push button start....
 
Let me know if you figure it out. My mustang wants to start at times and at others it tells me to piss off. I had a couple of wires that ran under my driver seat which were pinched by the seat and I had to solder all of those wires back together. I thought that fixed my problem but it's still acting up. I'm also crossing the solenoid in order to be able to get it started at times. Good luck.
 
Does the car have any kind of old hidden alarm system on it......check up real good under the drive side dash for cut spliced wires, modules, ect... I had this problem with one of mine, i had to jump it with the solonoid.
 
the clutch switch gets the power right from the ign switch so either the wire is open or the switch is bad
 
My car is doing the same thing. Originally a stick car, now has a C4. The previous owner put in a push button start instead of fixing the problem. I'm watching this biatch.
 
NVR2FST said:
Ok, I thought the problem was the clutch interlock switch and it still could be I guess, but it didn't make a difference when I attempted to bypass it (just quickly bridged the connections). The car started just fine when it came apart four years ago. Put in a new motor, switched from a T5 to a TKO etc., but didn't mess with the ignition at all. The solenoid has power and will start with a screw driver up there and the key in the "on" position, then shut off with the key. Key on seems to power everything up, but won't hit the solenoid to start. The clutch switch does not have continuity either.

Any ideas? I'm pretty tapped working on this thing lately and am really frustrated that this is the last and only hang up. For months I've been telling my son I'd have it together so we could go for a ride on his 5th b-day. which is Sunday, so any help is appreciated.
Click to expand...



is this for the blue car? i have my switch out right now if you want to try it out to see if thats the problem. i will out right down the road from you tomarrow and can swing by with it.
 
johnquick302 said:
we just had to do this to my buddies car, we had to make a jumper wire from the colum to the wire that goes to the solinoid (its one of the wires thats runs to the clutch switch). and you can find which wire is the crank wire from the colum with a test light. my buddy had it done in like 5mins.
Click to expand...

Possibly elaborate if you can?
 
Thanks again guys...I think the switch is bad, I'm going to try and jump it tonight to see what happens.

Alex - thanks for the offer, but I unfortunately be home tomorrow.
 
Exgmguy said:
Possibly elaborate if you can?
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the lil wire on the solinoid is one of the wires that go to the clutch switch. so if your bypassing the clutch switch either you can connet the 2 wires that go to it, or if your not getting the 12volts from the wire when you turn the key you can find the wire under the colum cut it and just connect it to the wire that goes to the solenoid.
 
FYI, the wire to the solenoid is red with a light blue tracer - at least it is on my car. Then there are three of the same (red w/ light blue tracer) at the clutch switch.

I started tracing the wire back from the solenoid tonight, if I can't figure out what the real issue is I'm just going to do what John said.

John- what gauge wire did you guys use? Everything that gets key on power in the column is pretty big, but the actual clutch switch/ solenoid wire is only like 16ga.
 
NVR2FST said:
FYI, the wire to the solenoid is red with a light blue tracer - at least it is on my car. Then there are three of the same (red w/ light blue tracer) at the clutch switch.

I started tracing the wire back from the solenoid tonight, if I can't figure out what the real issue is I'm just going to do what John said.

John- what gauge wire did you guys use? Everything that gets key on power in the column is pretty big, but the actual clutch switch/ solenoid wire is only like 16ga.
Click to expand...

we just used 14gauge wire. continuinty tester helps a ton when tracing that wire, you can find both ends easy and then you know, cuts time in half.
 
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