Car Repair Dispute - Who Is Correct Here?

4Gas$

4Gas$

Club Member
I want to know your opinion please. I had always been taught that
when it comes to zerk grease fittings, you lube them properly by
pumping grease until you see / hear it pop or ooze out (to know its full).
below is the communications I had with a shop owner. If I’m wrong, I’d like
to apologize to him, otherwise is he wrong?


Me:

On 9-2-2021 you folks installed two tie rod ends, left & right on my 2012 Honda CRV. These are top of the line Moog Problem Solver's with the zerk fittings that had to be installed into the tie rods, which they were. (Workorder #16660)

I paid you to install these two parts (& another $70 for the alignment).
I installed today a set of front brake pads on this CRV. I noticed the nice shiny new tie rods and I noticed that the grease rubber boot was flat, they looked empty.

I had to go buy a tube of grease and sure enough, I had to pump 7 full pumps of grease
lube into each tie rod. Please see the attached photos of the "before & after".

I am greatly disappointed in your company's service. I had already shared a few concerns that I discussed with you when I visited your shop today in person. But when I got home and discovered the lack of lubrication on my newly installed parts, well, that is simply horrible craftsmanship, there is no excuse for this kind of work leaving your shop.

I hope you folks can learn from this. I drove a distance to try your shop, but have lost any trust I had. I will not be returning and I cannot recommend your shop.



Shop Owner:

“Thank you for your information.
However that is not the correct procedure. When you install to much grease it breaks the seal on the boot and can allow dirt and contaminants in to the joint which causes premature wear. Typically we wipe the grease from the zerk as well when possible.”




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I always do what you did, but I think it is fine to put just two or three pumps in it. Did you see if there was any grease at all in it?

-Geoff
 
Ask him what color grease he used. Then tell him you used a different color and that there was no sign of his color when you greased it. You will be able to see if he is bluffing almost immediately if he just gives in admits that he might have missed it. If he says "Red", then he may have actually greased it.

-Geoff
 
After talking with Moog Tech (800-325-8886) it comes "pre-lubed",
but he said he would have added to it when new and you should
always add to it when oil doing changes.

He stated "you're both right". Not the answer I was looking for,
but the answer I got, from them anyways.
 
I'd think they would be greased when shipped.
We're dealing with humans here, they may install parts, but not also grease them.
Moog has to put something in there otherwise this stuff would fail quick as you know.

Regarding your place doing it right, well...
 
It depends on what type of boot you have on the tie rod end. If the boot is removable, I pump grease into the zerk until it slightly comes past the boot. If the boot has a snap ring or some similar retainer, you are not supposed to pump until you see grease, just until you see the boot slightly swell.
 
Shit, based on his method I have been over greasing since I 1st shot a zerk with grease helping my dad in the driveway when I was like 8.
I am not sure how I am going to sleep tonight.

I always go back after driving a few miles on fresh parts/fitting's greased and clean any excess grease due to movement/squeeze out.
I dont see how any dirt could get in the new pliable rubber boots after greasing.
 
Pump it out until the grease pressure relief valve/dent is no longer shitting contaminated grease. Squish boot with fingers to let excess out. Wipe boot and zerk clean.

They come with just enough grease in them for assembly. Most will get to warranty with this.

I've never seen one without a relief on them, except CVs. Usually there is a distortion near the stem or something with two retainers there is a tiny hole.

On things like my truck, that don't have zerks, I just find the tiny hole and use a needle greeaser to pack it full on the far side, grease leaks out, rinse repeat. It's messy, but it's why I get 200k+ out of a balljoint instead of 90k.

Your shop is being a bunch of cheap bastards, especially if they charge a shop supply fee. It's $8/tube for premium synthetic Valvoline, way less than that if you buy it by the case, and adding grease is a 3 minute job even if you have to change tubes and takes about $2 worth of grease.

Who knows what other cheap bastard shit they are doing when you go there.
 
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