Break in oils

2000Durahoe

2000Durahoe

Forum Member
A friend of mine has a 2003 Cobra that he just rebuilt the engine. Beefed up the bottom end, put all new bearings/seals, a small cam, lifters, and a size or two down on the blower. He wanted to know if I had any idea about this break in oil that has been on TV lately. I've seen the commercials too and its from Royal Purple. Whats so special about it? Their website just says it has high levels of zinc. Is it worth the extra cost? I always had the rule of thumb to change the oil and filter after 250-300 miles on new vehicle or engine.

Mike
 
2000Durahoe said:
A friend of mine has a 2003 Cobra that he just rebuilt the engine. Beefed up the bottom end, put all new bearings/seals, a small cam, lifters, and a size or two down on the blower. He wanted to know if I had any idea about this break in oil that has been on TV lately. I've seen the commercials too and its from Royal Purple. Whats so special about it? Their website just says it has high levels of zinc. Is it worth the extra cost? I always had the rule of thumb to change the oil and filter after 250-300 miles on new vehicle or engine.

Mike
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Brad Penn FTW,royal purple to expensive
 
Depends on the clearances and the piston alloy. If he has 2618 forging which are common in nitrous,supercharger,high compression engines Rotella offers extra pressure additives which help to greatly reduce skirt scuff and wear. As to everything else. Normal lubricants are fine. The factory followers are rollers so he should be fine.

Word of cuation on the 4v motors is that to heavy an oil can cuase problems with the way the Lifter "Lash Adjusters" function.

I would just run a good dino based 10-30 if the clearances are acceptable for such an oil and call it good. If not 15-40 is as heavy as I would go.
 
Straight 30 Rotella T works for me with all of my engine builds. Tonight we did 2 heat cycles for 15 minutes and I'll change the oil and go right to M1 15W-50. All I'm woried about is the rings seating and you must run a mineral base oil for break in to do so.


LOL, had to hang the jacket outside cause all the C14 vapors!!!
 
I always use very light weight oil for break-in .. I never understood thick oil for breaking.. That shits TIGHT bearing clearences are the tightest they will ever been on start up. I fire my shi tup roller cam or flat tappet.. goes to 2k for about 5 mintues then gets ramped up and down violently from 2k 3500 to help set the rings.

Why would you want a crazy thick oil for that? And never would I use sythetic for break-in that shits bad for ring break in if it gets on the walls its to slick..


good old 5w40 dino oil for me

Comes out right after break-in then switch to whatever I'm gunna run and beat the snot out of it.
 
The lash adjusters on the 4v engines tend to pump up with really heavy oils if you have lots of oil pressure it can make the problem even worse.

If the clearances are normal range and nothing is clearanced for ultra heavy loads just run 5w30 or 10w40.

I do agree with you however.


igotaneed4speed said:
I always use very light weight oil for break-in .. I never understood thick oil for breaking.. That shits TIGHT bearing clearences are the tightest they will ever been on start up. I fire my shi tup roller cam or flat tappet.. goes to 2k for about 5 mintues then gets ramped up and down violently from 2k 3500 to help set the rings.

Why would you want a crazy thick oil for that? And never would I use sythetic for break-in that shits bad for ring break in if it gets on the walls its to slick..


good old 5w40 dino oil for me

Comes out right after break-in then switch to whatever I'm gunna run and beat the snot out of it.
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