BRAKE light/ABS light

JACKO

Club Member
My dad's truck, 2004 ram 1500, both lights are on, he had replaced a sensor on the rear axle housing on the passenger side, lights went out, then 68 miles later both lights came back on. He did notice that his parking break on the drivers side , the pad was gone, so he just took them off completely.
So he needs someone honest to help him with these lights, I don't know much about this issue, we have no idea if the ABS system is screwed up, or of its just something stupid....and help, or tell us where to go would be much appreciated.
Thanks
JACKO

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I257
 
Lol...my bad...the rotor, in the I.D. is the parking bake pads, they were completely wore down to nothing, he had never replaced the parking break pads, or even used his parking break in 12 years

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I257
 
I will say that it wouldn't be unusual to have more than one sensor go out. Driving thru a flooded freeway in Orlando I lost the right front and left rear ABS sensors. But
I only had the ABS light on. To diagnose the entire system, my Caliber had to be hooked up to the hand held diagnostic computer. I'm guessing here, but what happens
if the master cylinder pressure sensor is bad?
 
Wave test [oscilloscope] each wheel speed sensor and trace the harness that puts out the poorest signal is my suggestion.
 
Wave test [oscilloscope] each wheel speed sensor and trace the harness that puts out the poorest signal is my suggestion.
Where can he have something like this done, and what's the cost?
Thanks

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I257
 
Anyone with a fluke with the wave function can. Usually 75.00/hr at a rep shop. I would expect Sears, Goodyear, Firestone, BelleT, and shops as such to be capable of conducting that troubleshooting.

Or you can throw parts at it and remove wheel sensors, inspect, replace suspect sensors/harnesses at your discretion.
 
Anyone with a fluke with the wave function can. Usually 75.00/hr at a rep shop. I would expect Sears, Goodyear, Firestone, BelleT, and shops as such to be capable of conducting that troubleshooting.

Or you can throw parts at it and remove wheel sensors, inspect, replace suspect sensors/harnesses at your discretion.

You can also do this yourself if you can take the wheel off, unhook the sensor and probe the connector with your meter.
Put on AC and turn the rotor, you'll get a small signal/fluctuation if it works, if not, it will be no change.
 
You can also do this yourself if you can take the wheel off, unhook the sensor and probe the connector with your meter.
Put on AC and turn the rotor, you'll get a small signal/fluctuation if it works, if not, it will be no change.

If the signal is dirty (interrupted) and the required tolerance is set by the oem to be very close, it may provide inaccurate diagnostics.
 
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